FMuscle

Got a question about the rears. I swapped my drum axle to a Paseo disc yesterday, bolted on fine, but the E-brake is stiff as (I adjusted it at the lever after the swap), it's harder than with drums to pull up, it holds, but doesn't really stop the car if I rip it while rolling, let alone block the wheels... Why? I never had a caliper mounted e-brake before, did I miss something?

Just did mine yesterday, direct bolt on swap. Complete 92 Paseo axle <-> 97 Starlet including the cables. You might need to save some hoses as there is more on disc brakes, there a flex off the caliper, a short metal one, and another flex before the line going to the front.

I bought a pair of sockets on ebay for $5, proper sockets, and will be doing this as soon as I get them. Can do step by step pics if needed...

Not the same car, but... This is my other EP91. Bought it cheap, body is in bad condition, but I don't care too much about that. But it always overheated, since I bought a month ago... So I brought the car back from a mates place last Wednesday, and this happened: I got around to fix it Yesterday, I used my old Paseo rad I had lying around and decided to change the thermostat to the Paseo's as well, it wouldn't hurt... Well I found this: It's no longer overheating... I didn't find the rest of the stat, but I think it rusted out, desintegrated, and got stuck in the rad... the inside of the hoses were the same color as the stat, so is the inside of the expension tank. The Paseo rad kinda fits, lower mounts are at the same distance from each other, so are the outlets, but they're a bit offset. I had to relocate the tank to the passenger side and turn its bracket around to make it fit.

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Don't leave them in the oven for an hour!! You have to remove everything you can get to from the housing, any clips, globes, screws & connectors. Then you have the coice of two methods, oven or heat gun. The gun takes longer, but has less risk. If you choose the oven, heat it up to 300°F, once it's up to temp turn it off and put your lamp in for 5 minutes. Start prying the lens off from a corner (I'd go with the inner corner on the Starlet), making sure not to let the sealant get on the lens, cut it as you go. Once the lens is off install the projector by its instructions, make sure it's pointed the right way (a mate had a pro do his, the cut out was at 45° instead of flat...), clean all marks and prints from the inside, put the lens back on, and anothe 5 minutes in the oven. Once out, make sure to let it cool down with some pressure so it sets properly. That's how the guy who did my Kia holds them back together: straping them together with a rag to protect the lens.

Go waterless. Evans Coolant for example. Will save you on the long run, no stress, no corrosion, no boiling...

Thanks mate! Got a bit of a problem now. I had all my parts under my bench at work, but I was moved to another bay last month. moved some stuff, left some, all ID'd. 1st of this month, a Wednesday night, I replaced the clutch of my second Starlet with the donor Paseo one. The 5E flywheel didn't fit the 4E, but clutch and PP went in. Now I'm closing in on the swap, but I cannot find the freakin' 5E flywheel anywhere!! I had it in my hands 4 weeks ago... I hope the guy that cleaned up before getting fired didn't throw it out....

Some progress made this week, the head is almost ready, I only have to check valve clearances. I was to do that, but a little mistake on my spec sheet stopped me... too late. And for another preview:

Best keep your money until you can do it. If, like mine, it is terrible, get better bulbs in the meantime.

The best way to go HID, is a retrofit. That means installing a projector in your headlamp. that means opening your headlamps. But only if you have clear lenses like the Glanza, the N/A won't do... Any other way is just shit.

got an email this morning saying it was posted.

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The most important thing to consider if you want to get the best out of any standalone is: Get the one your tuner knows. You'll never get the best out of a Haltech if it's tuned by a HKS guy or vice-versa.

They look exactly like my 1st gen rods...

You can see the number stamped on the bulb in the picture above.

Item For Sale: 4E-FTE connecting rods Item Condition & Description: Used, great condition, I just received as piston/rod assy, removed the pistons for my 5E build. Price: £50 Location: Rockingham, Western Australia Payment & Shipping Details: £40 tracked -------------------------------------------------------- Item For Sale: 1st gen 5E-FE pistons. Item Condition & Description: Used, raised top, removed from my 5E. One of the piston (#3 in pic) as slight damage, but would not affect performance/rings. Price: £30 Location: Rockingham, Western Australia Payment & Shipping Details: £40 tracked -------------------------------------------------------- Item For Sale: Pins Item Condition & Description: Used, extra set of pins from the above items. Price: £20 Location: Rockingham, Western Australia Payment & Shipping Details: £15 tracked Pictures:

Any offer accepted.

Thanks for the comments.^^^ Some progress today, in 2 steps. This morning I showed up at work once again while the shop is closed... And when the salesmen left, I went back home and... As you can guess, I had to stop because of weather, but not the rain, it would have been alright under the carport if it hasn't been for the bloody wind... Let's hope it's better tomorrow.

Just did mine last night. I used a tape mesure to triangulate the clips locations, then installed the lights on and marked 3 of the sides on the tailgate, made a paper template, lined the template on the marks, drilled and cut. Some filing and it fits perfectly.

Lol Yeah, but if it looks like shit the cops will pull me over for yet another yellow sticker because they think it will fall apart... My last canari inspector said to make it look clean to not attract attention, and my tuner said to make it look so boring the cops wont even think that the engine is modifed...

After waiting for a while to get some parts I bought from UK, I can finally make some progress. I'm getting the car ready for paint meaning removing the wrap and, now that my stuff arrived, installing my plate surround. I'm also deleting the locks on the boot and passenger door. Not sure yet how I'll feel this weekend, body or engine work?

I promised you feedback as soon as I would receive the items from my friend, who was kind enough to receive, check and repack everything in a single box to Australia to save me lots of £&$, in individual postage fees... Well, here it is, the box was delivered to me this morning. Here it goes: T-dog I have good things to say about T-dog, Great communication. I can't say anything about the actual parts, because COLLECTPLUS lost the package. Needless to say that they won't get my business anytime soon. TD04HYBRID He delivers! The injectors got to my friend overnight, and they're exactly as described. Perfect seller. jezza Thank you for the great products! The Cambelt cover and bonnet struts are in perfect condition, got there very quickly. Socks Great Seller, replied to every message litterally within seconds (how fast do you type?!?!), fuel pump is exactly as described masonep91 Thanks a lot for the Pistons, they're in better condition than I expected from the pictures. Also got there really quickly. snails ep91 Quick reply to my wanted thread, exactly what I was looking for, for months, used but the spacer is still in great condition. Idrees Last but not least, I can only add to the great stuff I heard about him! The plate surround, vents and clock are all in good condition, only thing is a little detail was forgotten, but it was corrected within 2 days, postage included. Thanks to all of you, my project can go on! Patryck. Let me know if you want me to post this in your own feedback thread, just drop the link below, I'll do it asap.