FMuscle

Very nice save. And most people say I'm crazy owning two Starlets... Even worst, modifying one!!! Can't wait for that.. I have connectors hanging everywhere from the aircon...

Good luck with that, it's my first time as well! But since my first car in 2005 was(is) an '81 Camaro 350ci 4 barrels, I've always been more S/C than T/C... You could always put the charger after the throttle. Changes the piping/cable a bit, but no bov required.

I need a bypass/bov for idle. It's the same as a turbo, one the throttle shuts you want to let the pressure go... I thought about putting it between the S/C manifolds, litterally sitting on the S/C. short, neat... Unless it'd be more efficient to have it after the front mount?

You just made me go take some more mesurements... LOL Can't be too careful, I have 246mm between the block and the vertical wall of the crossmember. I know my current pulley is 146mm and is slightly wider thant the supercharger. Let's say 145mm plus the approximate 75mm I need for the outlet, leaves me 25mm before I need serious cuts. I can probably make my outlet a little bit thiner between the blower and the block, I guess free flow isn't as much important right out on the pressure side, I can sacrifice a ¼ inch and make it oval instead of round... I could bring it down to 60mm from my first

Sure will, many times. It even started already. I plan on 3 inches tops between the block and charger at the manifold level. Pipe will be 2.5" kissing the S/C going towards the gear box, then 90° straight up to clear the mounting tabs while going around. That avoids the oil filter, leaves enough room for exhaust primaries 1&2. Once above the S/C body, a 45° toward the corner of the car to get to the front mount. The inlet is a lot simpler. grille mounted pod, 3" pipe strait down to the blower. Pipe will be so short, my recirculating blow-off should be as loud as a venting one...

I didn't do much today, I had to leave after work to pick up my wheel bearing before the store closed... But this morning I did the templates for the manifolds flanges. I will add that when I got back home, last street corner, the car started to rev way too high when not in gear... Popped the bonnet open and checked the cable. That Corolla inlet bracket is further away than the stock inlet's, so the nuts are at the very end of the thread for a proper throttle response. But the rubber seal came loose because it wasn't hooked on far enough and got itself stuck in the throttle lin

Now that this is done, I can make this fit.

You need to set the vid to unlisted or public, oterwise only you can see it

I've got 2 of them on my 5E, crank and water pump. I don't have power steering, and the alternator didn't fit, the alu one is flat, the OEM is concave, the alu one was stuck on the housing. It could be fixed if you have the equipment, but I couldn't be bothered.

Only difference I can think of would be rear discs or drums, if it's same on both they would fit

LOL reminds me of the time I had to drive a customer's car home. I drove it at night, and tried a few times to turn the headlights on... when they were already on! Love proper light

1156, not sure if that's how they're called in UK though...

That oil fume will just cover the engine over time, better get a catch can...

Crap, I got rid of mine... Well I guess my beater doesn't need its A/C fan... Cheers mate Got the headliner and boot trim off, the only connector I see is the one in the boot next the the lock...

Look at this one (but don't buy it, it's LHD) check the pictures, you can see some of the rear of the projectors, the markings on them are exactly the same as the morimoto's, the shroud is the same as one of the 2 OEM options for the morimoto... They're either a replica, or the real deal without the big name. All I can recommand is to contact the seller, make sure you get RHD (unless one lives in a LHD country), make sure you have H4 adapter plate/washer in the kit, and that they're bi-xenon (hi-lo) the rest is up to you: 35/55W, bulb temperature. Just make sure to get the right bulbs, you ca

http://theretrofitsource.com/ is probably the most recognised website, with the morimoto mini projectors being the best available at the moment. You can also get good ones on ebay, about the same quality but much cheaper. I'm doing mine for about £50, AU$90 complete with COB LED angel eyes as park/drl lights + a set of N/A crystals. Only thing is you need a smooth lense, like Glanza's or N/A crystal. standard N/A won't cut it. It's really straight forward, but most people don't want to open their headlamps. I aslo wish to quote this from your link above about plug and play: Please n

Plug and play HID are just shit. they never got the right pattern, light is scattered. Retrofit is the proper, and legal, way to upgrade. It's a hassle, but worth every penny. I did one when I had my Kia, Here are some pics. I'm waiting for parts to do my Starlet, I'll do a writeup when everything gets here.

I'm looking at D&D coilovers atm, I saw them on eBay, pretty cheap, but I haven't seen a bad review yet. [ebay]231055548949[/ebay]

This is how the caribbeans look like... Nice car, nice place.

Mine did the same, I finally bit the bullet, connected fuel and spark and started it. Boom oil pressure. I did double check everything first, pick up seal replaced, even a new one was dry... But started instantly, and oil light went off within a second.

I wanted to see how his bumper is sticking out...

Hey lads, I was working on the body of my EP to get it in shape for paint, and have a few questions. How to remove the bootlid and aerial... Bootlid is more about the wiring, I don't see a connector anywhere near the hinges, do I really have to pull it all the way out from the connector next to the lock? And the aerial is going to take a trip to a seagull's paradise, I just want to know how far does it go inside and how easy/hard it is to access it, even just to cut it at its base. I also have a little issue about the radiator fan, I'm using the stock one on a swift GTi half rad, dimentions a

Do you have pics? And solution? I'm working on a cut to fit as well, my test fits were looking good so far, but never hurts to know...

Nice car! The CD player is easy to get to. the surround trim has 2 screws above the heater controls, and 2 clips at the bottom.

The 5E is back on the road. Good news is there's no more coolant leaking, bad news is I need to replace the NSF wheel bearing. I also need to keep an eye out for a potential sweat around the sump. I may have a bearing in the transmission as well, but the wheel bearing is so loud I can't tell for sure until I replace it. Funny how this bearing fucked while I had no engine in the car... I did a bit of driving, and I can tell the powerband is different, probably the FHE cams at work. Feels like a tiny turbo lag before it gets some guts. About the same as the 4E at low revs then kicks in mid to