FMuscle

Hello all. Some of you may have seen some pics of what I did last weekend in my build thread: Yep I did a major wiring cleanup of the front harness, removing every unneeded wire. And while I was there, I decided to fix most of the Toyota common issues with headlights, issues happening when one wants to upgrade the lighting. Most common are: HID not working properly, only on dipped/only on high, Flickering, etc. the high beam indicator not working, either on HID or when adding a relay to keep dipped on when using high for increased output.These problems are caused mainly by the negative control of the headlamps, i.e. the switch is on the earth side, and positive is common. Reversing the polarity to a switched positive solves all this, and this method maintains the high beam indicator circuit integrity. Bonus, reduced wiring lenght -> reduced voltage drop. I have a separate fuse box for headlamps in front of the main one in the bay. It was easy to open it up and trace back the wires. There's a red and a red/black, both positive from the LH/RH fuses. Cut them. The side going to the headlamp becomes earth, the side from the fuses powers the relays, pins 30 & 85. (see below) In the harness, you'll find two red/white and two red/yellow. Cut them. Take the red/white pair on headlight side, connect together to pin 87 of one of the relays. Use one of the red/white car-side (or both if you don't want a wire hanging loose) and connect it on pin 86 of the relay. Repeat the above with the red/yellow wires and the other relay. With stock 60/55W H4 globes you don't need to upgrade the 10A fuses, but higher wattage may require it. Now ready for any headlamps upgrades you can throw at it. FYI, I tried to make it easy to remember, I put the "LO" function on the "LH" fuse...

Come to Australia, we have wonderful wildlife! >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wy_TB6onHVE

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221664977879

92 Aus spec Paseo. FTE pistons, FHE cams, rolla inlet. I'd love to do a major clean up of the dash loom, much more needed than the bay was. Especially behind my sat nav, it's a nightmare in there, but I'm too lazy to do it. Until another bubble pops, that is.

Not to loosen the tensioner.

There's a small cap that lets you loosen the tensionner bolt just above the crank pulley.

Feel free to post your screenshots.

I had 30 seconds on the second car, but from the 15th lap the tyres were getting knackered, I went out 3 times in the last curve, lost half my advantage... Specs are 253 hp, 818kg on slicks, short gears (I never got to use 5th gear though)

Seems very fair to me

How did you fill the Aerial hole? I removed mine, now looking at the options to smooth it.

The toyota shop manual says to. I'm guessing it's my problem as well, since I removed mine, didn't clean or re-seal as it was only a couple of days since I sealed it, and the engine hadn't been started yet...

Gran Turismo 5. 20 laps, arcade mode, intermediate difficulty in a Starlet. How is that line-up fair???

Page 3, why not? Here's today's lack of concentration, or the acts of a distracted mind. I wanted to check the headlamps polarity for my future upgrade. This happened: I ran out of electrical tape, cable ties are holding it for now. Not a bad thing, I'll have to fiddle around the wiring a bit more in the near future. I now have a ¾ full grocery bag of wires and positive switched headlamps...

Makes sense that it would be from the cover... The part where it goes over the cams is hard to seal properly, if you opened it, did you put silicone on these 6 "corners"? I have the same on my new 5E, I have the clear cambelt cover and there's a light film of oil on it, and I can see a small drop from the sump behind the pulley, and another next to the gearbox...

You might be able to reroute the wires, instead of extending them, check if you can pull the wires out of the loom to bring them closer to the hole... Not sure on the starlet, but my previous car could be rerouted like that, and I did it for my temp sensor on the 5E...

Sit in you seat, push against the rear of the wheel with your knees, and whack the top. Gotta put pressure with your knees and think about someone-thing! you hate while hitting! works for me when wiggling doesn't...

The pulley was already lined up and straight. It was to check the belt route to clear the piping going through it. Yes, pipe will go between the pulleys and turn to follow the frame to the FMIC. Not enough room on the other side, and under would be too low for ground clearance.

My weekend progress, part one: Went out to a metal recycling yard, searched the bins, found a bracket on an old massive ford I-6 engine and a steel flat about a metre long 30mm x 5mm. Scored them for the amount of zero, nada, niet. Then headed to work, did a minor tweaking of the S/C manifolds, fitted them and positioned the S/C on the engine. Took some mesurements, checked clearances... Tested the ford bracket... and since it won't fit, I started making my own.

I have a knock as well, when using the clutch, I suspect my control arm bushes. I know one is knackered, it bottomed out on the ground somehow, I will replaced it/them eventually.

Coolant bypass, best to do to help a CAI or intercooled air to stay cool.

First car, still have: 1981 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 350ci 4bbl. Previous one before moving: 2010 Kia Soul 2U Current: 1997 Starlet Life (project/daily), 1999 Starlet Life (beater/when '97 is in "project mode") nissan sentra 92, hyundai lantra 93, vw shit golf 95, geo metro 94, chrysler LeBaron 88 count in my history as winter cars, as my Camaro has been a summer daily for few years, since I became the second owner in 2005...

Let me tell you, 2 full suitcases, a basic set of tools, a 23" TV, a playstation, 2 pushbikes and groceries lowers the rear end by about 2 inches.

Because I need a new exhaust made from cratch from head to tip when the S/C gets in, because the S/C interferes with what is already on the market. Because I do not want a cannon, huge tip or anything over 2" sticking out the bumper... I'm working on something

Not much of an update, Wheel bearing was replaced, and got my custom ¾ sized plates to fit the glanza surround. If you're wondering, ostie is a mild french canadian swear...