FMuscle

Also curious about how you did the bumper as I want to do mine soon...

I wouldn't waste time looking at tail lights themselves, find the common point of everything that isn't working. You have the fuse, then at some point the circuit splices in 5/6 circuits, both tails (floor harness), the plate lights (roof harness), the front markers, the center console (not dimmed) and the cluster through the dimmer. If you have power at the fuse, check behind the fuse block if the wire still has power on the way out. If it does, you have a broken wire between the fuse block and the splice. If it doesn't. you have a broken wire within the fuse block.

Not with the SC14 going in eventually... I'm just waiting on my money tree to produce.

Precisely. HoMo, but I don't get why they'd let grannies cars race? by the way I'm running a 1st Gen 5E-FE with rolla inlet, FHE cams and FTE pistons.

shiny. SHINY! Did your alternator pulley fit right? I didn't fit mine in the end because it was touching the casing...

Is the lower timing cover the same on a EP91 4E-FE and a EL44 5E-FE? My timing belt snapped, my timing cover cracked as I was to leave work... I need to swap my timing belt over from my stock 4E to the 5E before work in the morning but I only have a 4E cover as spare...

I'm sure you can find a delay timer on eBay and have a dummy light on for a few seconds when ignition is switched on...

The TB mod takes seconds once you have the tools ready. If you don't have caps to bock the engine side nipples, you can use one of the hoses and loop it back to the other side. The nipples on the TB are both pointing at the firewall, and coolant loss is minimal, a rag is enough to catch everything. Power steering, from what I've read, needs a slight modification of the rack to become a true arm-power steering. From memory, you have to get into the rack and remove the piston that provides the linear assistance. Mine didn't come with assisted steering, so I didn't have to go there, thus I didn

It's 2.5 from the S/C to the IC. I have a reducer after the IC to 2.0 to match the rolla inlet. I guess I'm going with a 60mm TB. Even if there's a bit of variation (60-63mm) 2.5in seems alright. I think I'll need to add poly mounts to reduce movement on such a short pipe... pod to s/c

I had the horn working when I had my removable steering. The spring provided requires modification, but it's really easy to do. I guess every boss is different in a way, but should be easy enough. Do you have any pictures of the boss?

A few "free" mods you can do, -Remove the AC if fitted -Remove the heater core -Bypass the TB coolant lines All of these will save weight and increase power in a way, A/C is no brainer, no more belt, and the system is about 10kg. You can cap off the bungs going to the heater core and remove it and save the fluid's weight too. For the Throttle body bypass, there are two lines going in and out of the throttle body, which move hot coolant to prevent freezing. By doing so they warm up the throttle body and air coming in. Cap off the bungs on the engine side and drain the TB. And not free,

I was just looking at universal TB for my build, how should I choose the size of it? My pod filter is 3 inches/75mm, from there I have about 10 inches to the S/C 2.5"/60mm inlet, in which space I have to fit the TB and a bypass pipe, then once blown the air goes through the 2.5"/63mm FMIC, then to the corolla inlet which has a 2"/51mm opening. My stock/current TB is 46mm in diameter. Already a restriction to the 51mm inlet. But since it's not going in the stock location, a 50mm throttle body is out. But should I get a 60mm to match the S/C inlet, or a 75mm to match the pod? My theory to hav

Never anything good with german cars... (my day job is to fix the bloody things, they don't deserve it!) I like the steelies, look much better than 3 spokes imo, even if they scream WINTER SPEC!

52mm is 2 inches. best is to try it, you already have the vent out...

I believe a 2 inch gauge fits tightly in there from memory. I think 3 gauges could fit in the center vents, but you'd have to measure it to be sure, I had the idea and gave it up a year and a half ago, so my measurements are far away.

One thing is you can't mix dot 3/4 and Dot 5 fluids, so flush it good before putting your new fluid in. As for quantity, I do not know, but I would venture 3-4 normal sized bottle should be plenty.

ABS cost me (or my insurance) a front bumper once. ABS kicked in and the car didn't even slow down a bit. It wasn't an EP, but a high safety rating vehicle MY2010. Now if the perfomance was dependant on the ABS system like the McLaren are, I wouldn't touch it, but a normal car, I wouldn't want it.

You could have "deleted" the barrel, just leave it for show but have ignition switch somewhere else in the car. Re-run the wires and if someone tries to steal they pop the trim and, oops no wires to jump start I bet the reaction would be even better if you leave the connector in the barrel with a note on it: "you are being recorded"

Interesting to see this. Any interior pictures?

I'm looking at rewiring my P9 from nothing when I stop it to fit the rest of my parts to it. I would like to have wiring diagrams and connector pinouts for stuff like fuel pump, ECU, engine harness, cluster, HVAC unit wipers, lights, wiper/light stalks and OEM fuses boxes. The car is an Australian delivered Starlet Life, MY 1997, WITHOUT power steering, airbags, air conditioning, ABS, cruise control, power windows, power mirrors, central locking... I had A/C but removed it all, wiring included on the outside, I still have whatever wires are in the dash for the moment. If you have diagrams

HID projector retrofit.

Got to replace my belt next weekend. I swapped alternators and missed a bolt, and my dipstick popped out. Oil everywhere, what a mess... I cleaned everything, but since, I take off in first and I don't hear anything or a faint squeal, but when I shift the change of speed make it squeak. It's almost like a blow off Engine temperature doesn't affect it. It always does it, but only 1-2 shifts. I shift quickly now, don't let it rev too high... That's why you don't want oil touching a timing belt. It fucks it.

Well, that's out of the window, thanks! Still have to open it, I want to replace at least rings and valve seals, depending on how they look, maybe the bearings... I took a chance with the valve seals and I'm burning oil... That's what I'm doing. the only problem I have doing this is the very short distance between the pod in the upper grille and the SC14 at the A/C location. I need to fit TB, then a pipe for a bypass in that short length before the blower. Considering my car isn't technically legal as it is, I don't think this would matter much. My main concern if I have to

Hi there Starlet people. It's been a while. Life happened. Changed jobs, changed house, lost interest, lost my grand-mother... I'm getting back on it though. I've been driving the 5E in its NA form for just over a year, about 375 days to be exact (I didn't actually checked, I'm guestimating) and it drives nicely. I have minor problems with it, mostly oil not staying in the engine. I'm saving up at the moment to buy another car to use as a daily, my plan now is to rebuild the 5E in the EP's original block (original engine number) and replace all the seals and gasket by genuine ones, thing