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FMuscle

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Everything posted by FMuscle

  1. Love the S bonnet... I'd like one to fit my N/A front end...
  2. Hasn't started yet, but why not.. 5E
  3. Looks like the bonnet strips, the ones that seal on the front crossbar each side of the latch...
  4. Didn't do much today, so hot in the shop the thing I could do quickly is sweat... I got the 4E dizzy on. Noticed the plugs where not in the same order on the bracket, but that probably means nothing, however the wires were all different colors. We'll see soon. I also removed the sump, pick up and pressure release valve off the 4E after work, gave them a quick clean to fit them probably tomorrow. Shame because the other one was so fresh, cleaned and painted... Also read about the pressure issue at lunch. I saw a few people basically saying "Just man up and start it". It does make sense to me a
  5. I'll check. The engine turns easily by hand, I doubt it'd be anything in the pump itself. First check if oil reached the filter, I doubt it will have. Then sump off and blow air in the passages to see if it goes where it's supposed to, check/swap pick up/sump... Fun fun fun...
  6. new OEM o-ring around the pump and silicone on the bottom of the housing, as it's meant to be... according to the 5E manual I got.
  7. ah ok. first thing to try on that side is the dizzy. I'm more concern about the oil atm, I know I was careful when installing the pump, but what are the odds that the o-ring slipped and it's pumping air? I think I'll take the filter off and blow air towards the pump to see if it comes out in the right place or not...
  8. the green one in which picture? 1st or 3rd? I will go buy some good cable and ring terminals tomorrow and make myself a good grounding kit, make sure everything is earthed properly.
  9. You'll have to extend the brake booster and Map sensor lines. As for the throttle cable, I cut a slot in 2 washers and put them on each side of the bracket. Works good. for the earth, I'm still looking, I routed it to the fuel rail as it was the only reachable bolt, but I'm not sure if the contact is good enough yet. I didn't put the stays on, also I have a spacer making it even more unreachable... TB is bolt on though. As for something to look for, check if you have a coolant hole in the head on the dizzy side under the stock inlet, you might have to block it one way or another.
  10. Those are from when I was pulling the 5E out of the Paseo. In this one, there's ECT, green connector, and the unneeded sensor on newer models iirc, it's there just to block the hole... In that one, the white connector is that ECU temp sensor, and the 2 vacuums. Now these are the 4E reference pics I took before the swap. You can see what I mean by different positions of the sensors. Pardon the outback dirt on the connector...
  11. I did plug everything on the thermostat/coolant housing, I had to reroute the wires as the positions are different on the 5E housings, but I reused the 4E sensors. I have no pictures of everything connected, but green sensor single pin connector on thermostat housing, grey 3pins on coolant housing + the double vac lines also on the coolant housing. Remember distinctly that because the ECT and vacuums are inverted and the wires were too short for the ECT using the dizzy loom, I rerouted it in the oil pressure loom to connect it. PITA to wrap in the tight corner... Here's what I know for sure i
  12. Androo! I've been following your thread for some time now, I tried to register on AUSC but I'm still waiting for an admin to approve my request after about a month... (could you PM one of them for me???) I was very impressed seeing you craftsmanship, especially the extractor and downpipe... Welcome to USKO
  13. There's also the rising sun flag. I'd never display that. It's the japanese version of the Nazi cross.
  14. So just a decat and a straight through box will result in flames? I need to decat.
  15. I didn't touch the engine wiring. I checked all wiring, it's all connected except the exhaust sensor since exhaust does not fit. First thing when I get back to the workshop Monday is to swap the dizzy for the 4E, drain the oil and look for the oiling system problem. I could also try the 5E ECU, but IAC isn't the same, and I don't have the 5E TB anymore... But lubrication is more important, no point starting it if it's going to seize. I wouldn't have guessed from the forum... Me neither
  16. ^^^ No, when I asked here, I was told only to crank it to prime it... All standard for now, I just replaced the injectors for the 5E. Seemed logic to do so...
  17. Sorry wasn't clear enough, didn't mention that I'm running the 4E ECU and the 4E sensors for the most, only oil press and what's in the dizzy are from the 5E. I will take both sumps off and compare pick ups and check for blockage. If I can swap, I will, the 4E was running just fine not 3 weeks ago. And it would solve my exhaust problem at the same time.
  18. The Paseo had built in coil, same as my EP, but I'll swap them first thing when I'm back in the shop Monday. Does anyone know which side of the oil filter mount is from the pump, center or outside? Also it was suggested to remove the plugs to ease the priming process, I didn't... should I try that first?
  19. That's funny because I do not like the carat lights on this one, but I love them on mine... depends on the overall look I guess.
  20. Hello there, as some of you know I just swapped a 5E in my EP91. I have a few issue trying to start it. But first of all, here's some jucy details about the parts used: Donor car, 1992 AUS spec Paseo. C150 transmission, car has been run into the driver side but engine was running fine, it did drive but hard to keep in line or going fast with a crooked wheel... (pics in my build thread, link in sig) Was running on ECU #89661-16150 (26-16 pins) Engine is a 1st gen 5E-FE, bone stock. I added FHE cams and rolla inlet bought here on UKSO as well as FTE pistons. I kept my 4E throttle bo
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