FrozenJakalope

The saga continues. Thought I'd double check for vac leaks by putting my hand over the throttle opening whilst the engine was running, and it duly stalled out. The vacuum from the ICV was really hella strong. I thought that maybe an air bubble in the ICV could be giving a false reading, so I've bled the coolant system and that also hasn't fixed it. So far, then, It's not a vac leak It's not electrical It's not a coolant issue The only thing it is, apparently, is a god damn mystery.

Just been out with the multimeter and powers getting through the solenoid plug, 14v in and 13.5v out the RSO wire when hot, so that seems to be okay. There's plenty coolant in the radiator so that's out. Checked the vac lines and connections to the inlet with a can of wd40 and I couldn't see any problems there. Open to literally any ideas.

Connect it straight to the heater ducts in winter, car would be toasty in no time with literally no downside whatsoever!

So then, to follow up on the harmonics thing, you'd want an exhaust with a volume that's equal to a multiple of the displacement of the engine. A few basic assumptions being that the exhaust runs more or less straight, an EP91 is about 3.7m long and the exhaust starts about 30cm back from the bumper but also drops about 30cm to get under the block. So L=3.7, V=pi*L*r^2 and you want V to be a multiple of 1.332. Solve for R gives R^2=V/(pi*L) Start plugging in multiples of 1.332: 1.332*1 would give an exhaust diameter of 3.02in. So a 3.02in pipe running the length of the car with decat would have enough capacity to expel 4 cylinders worth of gas per cycle with no drop in pressure (as long as it's all timed up right etc). Course, this could be a lot more precise if I actually went out and measured the exhaust, but should be rightish. Conclusion, 3in straight pipe on a N/A would do nicely

But lost here. I fit a Rolla inlet and TB yesterday, and the idle speeds all wrong. Starts at 1.2k cold, and sits there until I actually move. The more I drive, the higher the idle gets up to about 2k. Unplugging the ICV underneath the TB drops it back to 1.5k so the issues there somewhere but I don't really know what to do next.

I use magnatec 10-40 because mines done almost 135k miles.

Yeah, really does. Went for a drive last night and even with a slack throttle cable and 2k idle rpm she was so smooth and composed I just had an idiot grin on the whole time. How's yours going B? Been looking out for the updates.

Can't believe these haven't sold mate. 14s or not they're lovely and a bargain at that money.

Issues above are all sorted, got a few tweaks to do to get her right like handbrake adjustment and the speedo cable needs tightening. Bigger news though is the FTE inlet is gone, replaced with a Rolla one so the extra powers now lower in the range, much more usable. Again, couple of odd bits left with the throttle cable and the idle issues I've been fighting for months are still there but I'm getting closer to being to stop for a bit, and actually have free time for a change. Tomorrows jobs are Check ICV for issues. High idle goes away when it's unplugged so there's definitely something up there. Adjust rubber throttle cable bushing on the Rolla inlet to take the slack out. Tighten speedo cable on the box end to stop the needle wobbling at speed. Calibrate handbrake so I can park on hills again. IF the weather allows, I'll be done by lunchtime and then I'm taking a break from going under the bonnet until August at least. Can't wait

Bought a couple bits off his breaker thread. They were posted exactly when he said they would be and were really well packaged when they arrived. Would 100% recommend to anyone.

Cheers Charlie

Standard N/A 6.4k, I believe.

It's OBD1.2 in an EP91, I think. By law, any car sold in the UK after 2001 for petrol and 2004 for diesel must be OBD2 compliant, so this is guaranteed to work on any car bought after those dates.

^

the name stamped on the side of the block doesn't mean much really, does it?

It'd be amazing. The second the v tec comes on there's just be torque steer EVERYWHERE

Obviously would need a lot of work to get in etc but I've always thought a B16A4 would be savage in a starlet.

Item For Sale: ECU from a late model EP95. Item Condition & Description: Good/used condition. Some age related marks etc but nothing you'd notice once it's in place. Includes mounting bracket. This is for a 3rd gen 4EFE with a coilpack setup, so won't work with a dizzy. I bought this intending to convert my engine to coils but need a bit of cash now so it's up for sale. Price: £31.25 fees included. Pictures: Payment & Shipping Details: Payment via PayPal, fees included in price above. Shipping will be RM special with tracking and insurance, probably about £7 to UK. Can confirm definite amount with buyer once I've got a postcode.

How much for the rolla inlet with TB and both the sensors on the tb?

Couldn't help you with the price, but there's a gent looking for some here http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/92948-stock-shock-and-springs/#entry1104991

Sold

Item For Sale: 1xUKSO stand ticket. Item Condition & Description: I can't go anymore so the tickets up for grabs. Price: 28.07 (asking price+4% fees) Pictures: N/A Payment & Shipping Details: Payment via PayPal, item will be delivered the day I get it recorded first class.

Hahaha, yep, that's a pretty good indicator of a fault. Glad you pinned it down mate

Not that I can see on the diagrams. Don't suppose you get a useful fault code reading, do you?