FrozenJakalope

Your multimeter's lying to you ;) A negative voltage reading basically means you've got the leads the wrong way round when measuring DC. So, the voltage is coming in through the black and out through the red. On your original question, I'd check continuity with your MM diretly into the 3 pins on the TPS. At 0 throttle, you should have continuity from middle to top, from 25% to 75% you should get no continuity and from 75% up you should get middle->bottom. If there's any cross-talk between the pins I'd take the TPS off and crack it open and you should be able to see where the problem is easy enough.

That's bizarre, I wonder where the other 0.6l of oil went. I can't wait until you strip this one down and see what's going on.

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/pdf/Throttle%20Position%20Sensor%20Adjustment.pdf It's for a different engine but the TPS is set up the same way.

I've got the wire on its own mate, £5 to cover postage and it's yours.

It affects fuel trim. Power goes into the centre pin and goes to the top pin from 0-25%, no continuity 25-75% and bottom pin 75+%. It's a surprisingly brute force way of doing it by Toyota's standards. I know that feeling mate. I have to keep telling myself there's no rush.

I did this for a week or so when I was between TPSs, it ran very rich and I got no fuel mileage at all but I haven't noticed any long term negative effects from it. On a UK spec, mind, a Glanza might behave differently. Your engine bay is a thing of beauty, by the way

Last pair for sale on here back in sept went for £40, if that helps.

As far as I know we don't have a motor factors in Cornwall. All sorted now anyway, cheers all

Cheers, I'm waiting for Iddy to get back to me. If he doesn't, I'll shoot you a PM mate

Ahh, cheers

Noob question here, but how can you tell they're from an 8v?

Just spent the last 7 hours giving her a complete once over. Service, wash, t cut, wax and valet. Cant actually believe how nice she looks right now

Has anyone got or can anyone point me in the direction of a new slave cylinder, pads, wheel bearing and split pin for standard UK spec rear brakes?

Quality work Rob, love reading your updates. What's the silver container back right in your engine bay, with the two hoses?

That's a right beaut mate, nice to see a red 91 that hasn't gone pink haha.

Morgey did a write up on how he did it in his build thread here http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/8661-morgeys-4age-sr-refresh-time/page-11 It's about halfway down the page

Really? I didn't know that. Free bump? Haha Edit: just thought about it, I assumed you meant the power steering vac line, been doing a lot of intake work this week so I've got vac on the brain. Sorry, complete twat moment.

How long do you need mate? Got some 6mm blue silicone here but only about 30-40cm. Edit: Though to be fair, you could probably buy the same stuff off eBay for less than itd cost to have mine posted. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=190884940904

Either 3, 6 or 8mm depending on which vac pipe you mean.

01209? Are you guys in Redruth/Camborne?

Head gasket would be my bet. Hope she stays together long enough for you to get the engines swapped, whatever it is

Not a coolant leak is it? I got a bit of water into the cylinders last week (not enough to hydrolock) and it wouldn't start for a while because the plugs were wet, had to leave it to dry out enough and then when she did start there was loadsa smoke as the last of the water sharted its way out. Edit: Also if your coolant is low it'll confuse the solenoid in the ICV and mess with your idle revs.

Try cleaning your throttle body as well. Blast some carb cleaner in there to get the shit off from around the butterfly. Made a world of difference to mine.

2.8l of the finest Castrol Magnatec 5w40 will see you right.

There's one for sale on here http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/91708-cusco-rear-strut-brace There's another for an EP82, but I dont know if they're interchangeable or not.