Ep82gi

There you see where I'm coming from surely?

Naa man I know that man but if your going to go out on track killing it then properly kill it don't do a half assed job lool

Try cryo freezing you gear Sycros works well iirc

Ever ridden a two stroke? Same principal really all it's doing its moving the start of the power band ( boost) up the Rev range so if your on boost at 4K for arguments sake hold it at about 3.8-3.9k through the bends and pin it coming out you wouldn't noticed the lag if driven "HARD" to be honest but if you would rather stay off the throttle completely then stay ct9 throttle balance is a mind fu*k to begin with but it will improve lap times a lot if don't correctly.

There was nothing that wasn't tried before they were cut off if tried to press them out with a 10 ton press still no luck. Good job there were naff wheels really

My clutch did the same for about a month and wouldn't let me down shift into 2nd and one day driving to my mums all the springs in the pressure plate just let go and I had no drive

Thanks man. Haha yeah dude it was like play dough I would not of like to have hit a curb or anything. Cheap made in China crap to be honest. Thanks again man

Update. 10.12.15 Right so as my wheel nut was stuck on holding my wheel on meaning I couldn't do anything that involved the wheel coming off. Meaning I couldn't do a thing. So I told jay (jayc_glanza) about it he said corne down and we will sort it. So I went to see him yesterday and we pulled the front wheel off in one hit with the hub disc and calliper all attached. After a cuppa and a bit of head scratching I suggested "why not cut it off" well famous last words spring to mind. That was the easy part. Then come 4-5 hours a grinding and cutting small bits of ally off chunk by chunk to get to the disk face and cut through the stud.

What is it for turbo or n/a application?

Sell yours to me and just buy jays one

Such a nice car. Love the spoiler dude.

This is cool man.

P.s getting them back on is the really fun bit

Seen this a few times lol. Normally caused by the retaining clips on the inside. Put the drive shaft in a vice with the cv joint you want to remove facing the floor pull down gently on the cv joint just to remove the slack ( in out movement) then a few swift hits with a fair sized hammer. Average club hammers my choice. Make sure you tap it down evenly around it so it comes off straight. That's how to get them off but I'm not going to lie and say there's an easy way because there's not.

Haha you know about them pictures bro it's hard to get the colour in it to be honest mate but I tried I'll just leave these here for you mate.

Sooo much lovely for this resurrection man cars going to be metal the pictures really don't show it off though it has to been seen in the flesh. Nice seeing you again bro :)

Half decent little red solida on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/252196313423

Redz11 for me. :)

We'll most good engineer places can pressure test as they use it for heads and stuff but you can make one at home I suppose with the correct fittings and with it mounted up so your not just pushing the piston out.

Well then I'd be inclined to drill and re-tap the hole then replace with a thicker nipple. If that don't work then replace and it could have a hairline crack in it. Have you have it pressure tested? For cracks?

Personal I'd got to my local motor factors and see if you can get one just a little longer on the calliper (threaded) side plus being new you know it's not damaged slightly. They seal just like the AN fittings so any damage to the tapered end will give you a leek. That's said I have also had older motorcycles where under the Nipple has been a spring and a small ball and again any damage to these cause a leak. Especially if they have been lost.

Haha this is wicked. Get a gi bonnet and the gt turbo bits of the side gone and no one will ever know (other than the fact it's plastered on here lol )

Not yet I'll try that in the morning thank.

What size are those wheels pal?

Tapatalk "enough said"