StanMan

Very nice build, makes me want to do a build thread for mine, seems like Facbook has taken over tho sadly. I have one of the TD 3" exhausts, very nice bit of kit and not silly loud for track days.

Check your PM's on Facebook and here please Keri, after some discs.

Still for sale? Won't let me send PM for some reason.

Kenya.........Just a bit warm there . I think WEPR do a AC friendly kit too.

Tuning Developments?

Hi all, After a engine only (barebones) 4E-FTE for a forged build, preferably with a head gasket problem within the midlands area. Also open to bottom end failure at reduced price. Cash waiting for the right buy (£200 - £500). Regards Stan

Will say first hand that these brakes are the dogs nuts even compared to the Wilwood equivalent, they will rip your face off and there is zero fade (when used on track) after using them for nearly a year the 277 X 25 kit and DS2500! Keri and his support has been 2nd to none (when using PM) he's a top bloke and a man of his word.

Only different thing is the Hubs as they are 54mm on GT turbo instead of 55mm on the Glanza, there are also 3 types of mounting bracket dependant on disk size I think. You will need to measure the disks when buying new ones as there are 3 different sizes of disk 275 x 22 / 277 x 25 and a massive 295x26. http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/28282-wms-brakes-for-54mm-hub-starlets-92-ep82/ That explains it all

Yeah it's great fun, had it fairly stock when I 1st got it. It's a T reg 1999 and the bodywork is mint. Done everything brakes and handling wise you can within reason apart from quaife lsd. Tbh im looking for the region of 320bhp once all is done engine wise with WEPR TD04 hybrid kit and port, polished head. Just looking at gearbox upgrades, as pretty sure its going to lunch 3rd gear at 320bhp. Car atm stands as: Engine: Tubular manifold (braced mild steel) Blitz de-cat (braced) Blitz SS BOV Full stainless catback system Air conditioning removed Air filter front relocation Jperformance front HDI intercooler HKS actuator CT9 Hybrid turbo E-manage ultimate ECU FET turbo timer Exedy Clutch Chassis: BC BR coilovers Whiteline Anti-Lift kit Whiteline 24mm front anti-roll bar Whiteline front anti-roll bar droplinks Whiteline rear anti-roll bar & droplinks Whiteline adjustable panhard rod Polybushed lower arms Polybushed rear beam Polybushed gearbox mounts Polybushed top engine mount Cusco adjustable rear strut brace Brakes & Wheels: Toyo proxies T1R's 15" X 7J ET35 Team dynamics pro race 1.2's WMS 4 Pot calipers Earls front braided lines Grooved 277 x 25mm disks Ferodo ds2500 brake pads Boost was sorted after dyno as the graph highlighted the actuator wasn't holding boost correctly.

Hmmmmm that had occurred to me. Checked mine last night and saw the same (slightly touching lip in exhaust tunnel) gonna get the grinder on it tonight and rust proof it after.

Ct9......hybrid lol running a whopping 210bhp saving for forged etc. Im just outside Stafford in Eccleshall.

Using the Whiteline ALK Mine has a fair bit of clearance on the passenger side and is about a 1mm from touching on the other side, this is with the supplied Whiteline drop links. Trying to work out why its offset Drivers side 1.48 degrees castor: Passenger side 1.45 degrees castor:

Seen a few in Stafford & surrounding area

There is a hole in the oil filter housing, its just blanked off, you need to drill a small hole in the power steering bracket so that it you can fit the sensor wire.

"mugs game" haha, interesting project. My mate had a 205 with a Mi16, was great fun.

Great, thanks for that. I did it to 80Nm in the end, so not far off.

According to this it's 155nm? They are 12.9 cap heads. But originally M12 Toyota flanged bolt marked with a 10 on the head.

Hi guys. Does anyone know the torque for the Whiteline Anti-lift kit (the 4 M12 cap heads)? It says to torque to standard spec which I think is 155nm as standard bolt is marked as '10' on the head. I don't want to break the captive nut on the inside of the chassis and cause an absolute nightmare. Thanks.

Will try that Keri and report back, would make sense as as soon as they get warm after a couple of stops it does seem to get worse. If they are sticking what should I do?

Hi guys. Ever since having my WMS brakes back in November 2016, I have been having a problem with them making the car pull to the left, they were fitted with new braided lines and DS2500 which were bedded in using the correct procedure. If I bleed (I use DOT 5.1) the drivers side they go back to normal for a while (around 2-3 days) and then they get worse again. I only drive the car normally on weekends so when I come back to it I have to bleed the right drivers side caliper. I have bled it up using the two person method a few times on all calipers, front and rear along with using a Sealey VS020 vaccume bleeder, which just seems to pull air around the threads of the nipple. If I really put the anchors on so that the ABS nearly kicks in they start to pull evenly again and the car straightens up, leaving me to think that it's air in drivers side line being compressed. Or air trapped in the outside of the caliper as you can see from the pad wear. As you can see, somethings wrong with the drivers side. Passenger side pads fine. 10.75mm (outer) 10.35mm (inner) Driver side, you can see that the caliper pistons are further in on the inside than the outside: 10.95mm (inner) 11.85mm (outer) Is there some other method I can try?

Says 07843 592232 on the forum.

I was pretty tired when I wrote that lol. Basically I bought some 2nd hand BC coilovers from ebay. They were described as fully functioning and adjustable, when they arrived the ride height adjustment was seized solid because they had not been properly maintained with anti-seize. I sent them back and got my money back.

Not long fitted my BC's, copper greased the hell out of them and also brought the Tegiwa 300mm socks. I originally brought some 2nd hand BC's from ebay as they were sold as fully functioning, were they hell, the shock body was seized solid with the mount. Got my money back thank god through ebay.

Nice and subtle. Good idea at first; normally that works a treat. I have not long took the CT9 manifold off to have it welded and new gasket (the usual mild steel crack), tried that approach with the good old Snap-On soldering iron attachment, got the map gas on it and it did the trick in half the time due to the heat transfer.