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Sam44

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Posts posted by Sam44

  1. Great advice.

    I've tried both the tdo5 16g and tdo5 20g on mine and yeh the 16g comes in late and is quite a hand full when it does and the 20g does not even achieve ful! Spoo!. 

    Td also do a crank cap set I've seen and are being told about alot of 4e engines cracking these around 300hp 

     

  2. I'll get some pictures up very soon I've just ordered side skirts a turbo spoiler and number plate surround for rear. I've cleaned up the body also and put some 15 inch alloys I had in the garage on. looks a different car I've also lowwered it alittle on the vw coilover conversion following Colin's advice on the topic. 

    As soon as the side skirts go on and afew other bits done I'll get pictures up. And it's booked in for a Dyno run the first week of June. This will be with a stock td04l 13t on a basic setup. 

    Then I'll put the mods on and hybrid turbo and start to show the gains on further Dyno runs. 

    I just ripped my back gearbox mount off today. I've been working on my standing launch all week. 

    How's yours coming on. You where really starting to progress on. 

     

  3. Looks smart. I'm running a 4efe converted to take boost. Also. 

    If you want any advice just ask or you can message me. 

    You also need the coil and ignition igniter. If you are converting to 4efte ECU 

    Distributor and leads + king lead 

    Map sensor 4efte ep91 or ep82 ECU dependent

    Thermostate housing.  Coolant pipes to turbo 

    Full exhaust system 

  4. The picture above shows how we use flaps to direct more air from the front under the chassis to increase the diffuser effectiveness. Look at the flaps in the center of the picture running length ways on the bottom of the nose cone. Look how they direct air under and threw the chassis. From the center of the front wing this also helps lesson air spill from the sides of the chassis.

    I should not really be talking about this. So I'm going to stop here. 

  5.  

    This explains the shape of the diffuser and how increasing air volume and Velocity increases its effects. Mainly from the front feeding the underside so splitter and air dam design a key area. 

    Touches on the video you posted above (air spillage) in the video above as soon as the water starts to spill over the spoons edges it's hit its peak point this is mainly down to the effects of the spill areas. 

     

    Because of the hydrogen in the water the water has a property called surface tension. 

    Which has a greater affect. So every effort must be made to maximize areo dynamics

     

  6. Yeh F1 cars use directional slits and winglets to stop air spilling out of the sides trapping it under the car and forcing it threw the rear defuser. They also use chassis rake as way of helping the diffuser and using the underside of the flat chassis as a diffuser. 

    Great videos and the starlet needs these items there shape is a big problem especially the ep82. Speeds over 100mph are affected the most. 

  7. On 4/15/2020 at 3:39 PM, 76GD said:

    Thanks for the replies guys :)
    Yeah I think Im going to just swap over the throttle body from the 4efe and slap it onto the 4efte manifold. Only issue I see from that is that the 4efte manifold isnt as wide as the 4efe. Therefore I will have to shorten the throttle cable lol
    I'll try tighten it from the engine bay and gas peddle, see if that works.


    I'll post pics up once I take some hopefully tomorrow haha

    From what I can see\read, I'm under the impression that the 4efe and 4efte throttle bodies have different shape base mounting plates but the bolt holes do line up. Watch for air leaks around the bottom of the 4efe starlet throttle body base. 

    I can not message by you. I'm very interested in your build if you could do a build thread this would be great to see a ,4efe setup on a fuelcut defender 295cc injectors and a fuel pressure regulator. 

  8. Just look up hobs adjustable pressure switch. And a microtech fuel controller https://microtechefi.com/tech-tip-aux-injector-mapping/

    This is one of many controllers dating back to the days of bosh kjet injection and the first efi setups. 

    And your welcome, if you would like to get involved in a topic it's better to message and ask advice rather than try and upset. I think we all know now how the internet works.

    There is lots and lots of ways to tune people ho tell you this method is the only way. What they mean is this method is the only way I know, and it's normally followed by I can sell you this for £xxxx

    The main differences are money\cost for extra power and fuel economy against power achieved. 

    Feel free to message me in the future. 

  9. 5 hours ago, Timmah said:

    Ahhh so quite a few mods! For the wheel spacers, did you put on extended wheel bolts too? I feel 20mm won't leave much for the wheel nut to bolt onto.

     

    It is well worth it, on these handling and control out of factory is quite poor.

    I'm using hub centric spacers bolted on. 

    I'm also thinking of a stiffer front roll bar. 

    Its a completely different level of control from factory. Cornering speeds are really very impressive to the point were a baffled sump and windage tray were a requirement. 

    I've no need as yet for a rear wing.

     

  10. List of parts

    4efte inlet cam.

    Corolla inlet manifold 

    68 deg thermostate 

    Engine earthing kit 

    Platinum tipped spark plugs

    Fse adjustable fuel regulator, gauge and fuel rail adaptor.

    2inch exhaust system cat back with high flow cat. 

    Message me and I'll talk you threw how to set it up. 

    There is a also a good 4-2-1 exhaust manifold on the early 4efe ae101\e100 corolla if you can find 1. 

     

     

     

     

     

  11. Not a problem. 

    It would be good to see a how to on this way of boosting a 4efe\ build thread and cost. 

    From what I've read it seems most in the starlet world are not aware of this method. 

    Most I've talked to believe the only way is to use the 4efte ems and wiring. 

    Good to see further developments in the starlet community.

    Of course there is the second set of injector oprouch on a pressure switch as well.

  12. I've also fitted the map sensors directly to the inlet manifold this has improved the fueling response to throttle position to a near 1:1 response time. Because of this I'm now running a fixed fuel pressure of 3.6bar giving great fuel atomisation but working them injectorsn a little harder, I really need to cool them down.

    I've also ordered a fuel cooler and high flow fuel filter to fit under the chassis. 40 degc tank temps recorded and 58deg fuel filter temps recorded. 

    I'm also going to get a inlet manifold gasket that's made of a material that will insulate the inlet from engine heat (heat soak) if any one can point me in the right direction for 1 of these gaskets. 

    I've just hit .9bar of boost pressure and also fitted a set of glanza 295cc denso gray injectors that have come back from cleaning and testing. 

    I've just sent a set of 370cc light green 3sge injectors off to be cleaned and tested they will be fitted next. At around 1.1bar of boost pressure I predict.

    The heat range 6 plugs are still looking good\cool for 1bar of boost. After a recent long test run and read. 

    I'll fit the C4 64kv coil at 1bar of boost also and swap the platinum tip heat range 6 plugs for a set of standard domed head heat range 6 plugs.

     

    FuelCooler-01.jpg

    aem_universalfuelfilter-10AN_0.png

    jac-340004_w.jpg

  13. I've have a mega squirt V3 here which I'm playing with the idea of putting on, but the standard map is a good well developed map easily manipulated so I'm finding there's no real need as I approach 200hp+. Basically it's not cost and time beneficial at this point to move from the aem piggy back. 

    I'm still finding lots of problem areas that can and will affect power. 

    With these being indirect injection the batch firing injection can lend a hand in cooling the inlet valve heads. And air charge. Especially as there has been alot of effort put into cylinder mixing on the 4efe I have. But these fuel temperatures I'm getting have a large scope for improvement. 

    The benefits are, possible mpg gains with sequential. But I'm unconvinced at this point the time involved would be worth it.  The standard 4efe map suits the basic engines requirements very well. Sorting threw the problem areas and finding the errors as I call them, the area of development at present. then I will see what the power graph looks like and make a decision if the V3 is worth it or needed my target power level is 240hp with equal torque. 

    Another area of concern is the engine breather system and crank case pressure's. 

    I've recently had a set of 295cc standard injectors cleaned and tested that I have swapped In For a set of old 295cc units, and I highly recommend doing this with the age of these vehicles. I saw a difference straight away. 

    1 hour ago, RobSR said:

    Why did you swap from batch to sequential?

     

  14. On 4/11/2020 at 3:37 PM, 5e colin said:

    Another option weld 4bolt ct9 flange to td/tf housing  and make adaptor plate for downpipe there's many options depends how good your DIY is

    Agreed. And great to see a tunner that can see out of the set formats of standard tunning.

    I do think that a ct9a and b exhaust turbine housing and diameter of the port are to small and restrictive for anything bigger than a 13t or T25 with an 11 blade billet compressor wheel the best option to improve base to mid range rpm power rather than a 6x6 or 7x7 billet wheel these wheels provide better top end rpm power but also drive up egt (exhaust gas temp) which is down to back pressure produced by the exhaust turbine design and size. This kills engines. 

    I will look to see if you can get a 7 blade ct9b turbine design. Or 8 blade, from what I can see the ct9b has a bigger exhaust port diameter and a 9 blade exhaust turbine. 

    I know that the 15t billet 7+7 was to big to run on a tdo4l exhaust housing and standard turbine. The egt and torque drop off was not worth  boost levels over 1bar. 

    I'm running a 13t 11 blade billet compressor wheel on a tdo4l 9blade aftermarket turbine with no spool time lost it hits full boost around 5krpm and improvements everywhere in the rpm range especially topend power and reduced egt. Its very smooth on power delivery no surge at .9bar at present on a 4efe engine and looking good for 1bar. Very controllable throttle and pulls like a train. Costing me to build around £450. All balanced and new seal kit. Before this, I bought it with a 15t 7+7 billet tdo4hl 11blade turbine and housing, and I'd say it was better than a tdo5 16g going off the graphs I've seen on these, crazy topend power. With the tdo5 16g spooling up later in the rpm range. 

    From the information I've seen the ct9 hybrids have some very fundamental design problems and crazy back pressures with running the ct9b housing loosing to much rpm spool time to make a hybrid work with this housing on a 4efte. A better turbo choice the best option. 

    Saying this the ct9 hyb turbo found here should cure alot of these issues. 

    Its worth a go with it.

    I would not go any bigger than a 17t on a tdo4hl housing the 19 and 20t Dyno graphs are ugly to say the least. In my opinion. The 19t tdo4l hardly produces much more power with a surge increase, spool loss and higher egt levels.

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