Sam44

This throttle mode needs to be on a how to topic a very worth while mod with great gains. 

On 4/9/2020 at 7:20 PM, federalman said:

I’ve always run my idle around 1100 as the idle control and wax stat were shot so idle sometimes plummeted at a standstill and sometimes didn’t so I shall aim to maintain what I had already. Throttle response has always been pretty crisp so I shall probably leave the tps where it is

Yeh at that rpm with the waxstat removed you will be running advanced tps position (idle valve off). 

I ran a ae101 Corolla gen1 4efe ECU on a aem piggy back with a turbo throttle waxstat removed and a starlet 4efe ECU with starlet throttle the difference is the tps. The 4efe has a potentiometer type and the 4efe gen1 corolla is a 3way switch, like on the 4efte. The 4efe starlet potentiometer type and ECU is alot better for fueling adjustment threw the rpm and load range. The 3way switch type goes very rich on wot conditions hurting power. 

Has anyone ever installed a under chassis fuel cooler to there starlet. With these being batch firing affecting valve head temperaturez, as well running a fuel return to tank system. I've been monitoring fuel tank temp and I'm seeing 40+degc tank temps and higher under bonnet fuel temps. 

 Over the past two weeks I've been busy putting some ideas into action?

This involves improving the base to mid range power levels on the setup I'm running. Smoothening out the power graph. Also giving great throttle control. 

I've made a adaptor plate to fit this the Audi 80 sport twin plate throttle body to the 5efe inlet manifold I'm currently running. This has a 45deg angle introduced into the adaptor plate so as to ramp the intake air charge across the manifolds back chamber wall so as to feed cylinders 1 & 2 better improving cylinder power balance. 

I have had to switch back to the ae101 gen1 4e ECU because the Audi throttle tps works with this ecu. At a later date I will convert the Audi tps to the ep 91 UK tps and switch back the ECU this has a better fueling map. 

Good to see you are back active. I tried to message you on here when I first joined.

I was told to get in touch with you by quite a few people. 

Following this build. 

Colin nice to talk to you and see your still active. I've read so many of your posts on this little car. BIG FAN. 

Colin will know alot more than me. I've been reading alot on CT turbo fitment and what I can see the ct9&ct9b housing has to be used in all CT turbo adaptations\hyb in order to fit the 4efte standard manifold flanges. 

So I'd say yes, this hyb you have found is probably the best option for a CT turbo. 

The information I've found is the ct12 exhaust housing also fits but has a narrower internal diameter compared to the ct9. I've seen some ct20 installed into the ct9 housing it requires the exhaust turbine port to be opened out to fit the ct20 turbine diameter. 

https://www.mr2oc.com/threads/dyno-of-a-gen4-with-ct15b-vs-ct20b-at-various-boost-levels.425425/

Some info on the ct15b and ct20b 

If you want to either run a big safer on lowwer boost or smaller high boost turbos I can give you spec lists to suit the tune and get the most from the turbo. 

Things like the narrower zisco ram's horn manifold help big turbos spool better, 4efe inlet cam and rolla tubular inlet will make a standard ct20 spool alot sooner, And save you alot of money, the fse adjustable fuel reg will also help you, it has to be the fse fpr it's the characteristics of this regulator that lets you run lower fuel pressure at lower rpm then slowly raises to topend power pressures affecting spool up and topend power. you can stay on standard boost pressure keeping reliability but aiming for 200hp with much better torque. These are all cheap items found on eBay and on owners sites. 

In all honesty I've seen alot of ct9 hyb problems (high boost pressure related) high egt.

You are welcome to message me for further advice and no need for expensive ems ECU control for around 200hp. 

https://www.shop.mambatek.com/searchquick-submit.sc?keywords=Ct+Toyota+td05 

Some of these will fit. 

Looks to be a very good spec. For the 4e\5e

https://www.shop.mambatek.com/GTX-Turbocharger-TOYOTA-1HD-FTE-Land-Cruiser-CT15B-Orginal-wheel-001-0339.htm

As can be seen prices are around the same so i would say this tte hyb is around the right price. 

Also these adaptor plates for the ct26 : after checking measurements this does not fit the stand 4efte flange sorry. 

The turbo in the picture is a tongs ct9 hyb and it is running a ct9a (ct9) smaller exhaust turbine port. 

I'm talking to someone ho put the ct9b exhaust side on a tongs hyb but he says it does loose spool time, and topend pull is alot better he then used the 4efe inlet cam to offset the spool time back to normal. 

From what I'm reading these use a T25 Garrett cast alloy compressor wheel (inlet turbine) very old school tech.

Alot of engines fail with these turbos. Egt at higher boost levels and speeds the killer. The exhaust port is way to small. 

The ballbearing td04 core will support the size difference better and turn\rotate more freely. 

Benefits would be alot better service life + Spools up sooner and faster.

This with the ,11 blade billet alloy compressor wheel would really kick ass (as in the picture) I would expect the inlet\compressor wheel to be larger (race specific). This needs a larger exhaust port diameter at least around the ct9b diameter bigger would be again better. If you can get this information. 800 would be a good price and you should see around tof35 levels 

Polly bushed the front wish bones + lift kit, poly bush the rear axle mounts, rear anti roll bar, we used bolt on hub spacers on the rear hubs widening the rear track by 20mm a side. front and rear strut brace. 

It came with a cheap set of coil overs fitted and because it's for road use I'm keeping them on and I'm pleasently surprised with there control and comfort from what I can gather it's the mk2 golf fronts and polo 6n2 rears. 

The ep91 i have Is the four door slightly heavier 4 door but these give better chassis rigidity. 

It also came with a adjustable brake bias valve fitted and with better brake effort to the rear end has really made a good difference in control when braking late into a bend as well as braking at speed in a bend. The rear end behaviour and weight/momentum shift has been the biggest improvement. The only issue is it's still on drum brake and in stop start traffic I adjust the bias valve so all the brake force goes to the front. Otherwise it just stops dead making for a jerky ride. 

I've welded inch box section steel  to the full length of the rear axle radius arm. To stop them flexing 

Oh and new front wish bone to hub ball joints. 

Tyres are P Nero zero very good in all weather + hard wearing. 

If feels like a totally different car. Easy to drive fast. 

I forgot one last thing the adjustable panard rod on the rear (Polly, bushed)

If you set your idle rpm at 1k cold start should not be a problem. Just on this note your not in a cold climate are you so below 0degc. Plus you will maintain good oil pump pressure at the base rpm. Also reducing intake air temp alot this waxstat idle control valve operates at engine thermostatic temperature so standard is 89degc. After a run any one running a standard throttle body feel the temp of the thing. Hot hot hot. Mpg will be affected and you will notice it. With the reduction of inlet negative pressure and temperature. Good news is throttle response spool time and power will be improved. If you now smoothen the fuel pressure increase on the mechanical standard fpr with the aid of a vacume chamber things get better again. Now shorten the map sensor vacuum pipe and remove the inline filter and things improve again. Earthing kit to finish, and a good set of plugs and your base tune is almost ready. 

I also adjust the tps to remove the idle switch position (so basically advance it) this affects your ems ECU response time again helping throttle response, but be careful the wot switch on these when activated overfuels for safety hurting power. So you just want to set the tps so it's just off the idle switching. At the exact point of idle switch open.

I adjust fuel pressure to lean off the wot switch conditions but this must only be done by a compitant tunner. 

Theses from what I'm reading, the Toyota made ct9 hyb turbos are not lasting long from new I believe this has something to do with the compressor wheel and turbine size difference as well as exhaust temperature. So a ball bearing turbo could help here. 

Also for boost pressure around 1bar I'd only run the ct9b exhaust port diameter (larger) and bigger turbine. 

TTE? Toyota team Europe?. 

Hello there

Can you send me port dimensions and number of blades on the compressor wheel and exhaust turbine and dimentions if possible I'll let you know. The tongs is the best Dyno graph I've seen on a ct9 hyb by the way. 

Welcome.

Get them pictures up I'm really starting to enjoy and expand my design vision of the car by what I see these guys doing to theres.

I'd highly recommend have a good look around in here before deciding anything. There's some amazing looking starlets. I never ever thought I'd be saying that. 

I personally bought the ep91 I have for a project and the only thing I was seeing was the weight and proformance but now I can say I'm starting to see the ep model as thing of beauty. 

Welcome.

Really great bunch in here and crazy little cars for sure.

Enjoy. 

7efe your right 4afe stupid auto correct. 

200+hp n\a very impressive these lads. 

4 hours ago, JamesD89 said:

56 minutes ago, glanzagee said:

here's somthing too keep you entertained the car infront is a starlet gt turbo c/r 7.8/1 with 1.8 bar boost can run for days like that !

 

 

1 hour ago, JamesD89 said:

It is a mk1 gt and yes it was a factory colour code 3h4.

Thanks for that. How rare are these. 

I will find you the corolla part number there is 1x pin in the ECU to swap from the info I have here. But very easy install. 

I can't get any further in to get a closer picture it's against a wall down the side of the house if you can't make out the numbers I'll get in closer when I've got time. I just need to clear it out. 

I'm very interested in your build. Send me some pictures please. I can tell you that the tps (throttle position sensor) is totally different on 4efe but the good news is you can get a ae101 corolla ECU that will run this tps and it does not use a factory immobiliser.

There is a knowledgeable guy on here called brad ho might be able to help you set the manifold up. From his setup on his GT I can tell he knows exactly what he's doing. 

you also need to run the air temperature sensor. 

This on the 4efte inlet is the 2pin plug on the left side center if you check the resistance of both the 4efte and 4e at room temp and then warm them up in your hand and see if resistances match if they do just rewire to the 4efte unit. 

The actuator on the side of the manifold is the idle control valve. There is a topic\thread on here recently were we covered removing this and setting up idle on the 4efte throttle body. This will also allow you to remove the coolant pipes to the throttle body that heat it up to thermostatic temp 89deg this will help you run safer. I suggest you follow this. It will not idle if you use the 4efte tps on the starlet ECU it's the idle switch voltage. But you can use the wot switch so adjustment of the tps will be different at first unit you run the ae101 98hp 4efe gen1 ECU. 

What size injectors are you running (colour) and boost pressure im running a standard 4efe on a hyb tdo4 15t. 

I bet the ct9 spools very fast on the 4efe. 

What model is this and is this a factory colour

All I can tell you is it's a n\a unit. Ive not come across any TRD n\a 1.3ltr yet. The only TRD 1.3ltrs I've come across so far are glanza v and GT but they might have done a glanza s or hi but I've not come across 1 yet

I'm Very interested, get a build thread wrote up, and welcome to this starlet community. Some very knowledgeable people on this site. 

6 minutes ago, EP70-PT said:

Haven't updated the old thread in a while, if you see it on instagram it went a long way haha fiske carbon bits, blitz k1, jam ecu

 

I've not got instergram sorry. I'm restricted with my employer as to what social media platforms I can use. 

Message me your spec list and any graphs you have please, I've found the ep91 build very impressed. Are you keeping the ep91.