Frankieflowers
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Posts posted by Frankieflowers
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On 7/27/2020 at 9:20 AM, Claymore said:
Managed to get hold of a fte lower power steering bracket so I can fit the fte oil filter relocation piece. I know the fte power steering pump is different but I'm not sure if the standard fe power steering pump will fit to the fte bracket? Anyone ever tried this combination?
I did. The fe pump has the lower bolt in a different position compared to the fte pump that was modified to make space to the oil filter relocation. This s why they moved the vacuum to the steering rack. I’d like to tey to fit the vacuum sensor in the Corolla E11 fe steering rack but I’d have to take out. A lot of work. Best would be to create a hubrid steering fe bracket to fit in tje fte location.
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On 8/6/2013 at 4:59 AM, wickedep said:
i had one on my car long years ago..full boost on 5e around 5500rpm'ish. it will work fine..will tend to surge if you are going to push over 2bar. raising the rev limit to 8000k will really help as you dont drop out of the power band when you shift. below is a video of my car running this turbo @1.5bar...
What is the ideal setup today to have a decent spool and glod power around 350 hp? C52 gearbox will hold? Are ARP head studs necessary? Maxpeeding rods are for it? Please let me know your opinion.
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On 8/16/2011 at 1:27 PM, Asad said:
the bug eye corolla 4efe came with coilpacks too
Hi. Was reading the thread as I have the Corolla bug eye 4efe coil pack and harness. What would have to be done to adapt it to the fte ep91? Thanks!
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On 3/24/2013 at 3:10 PM, akyakapotter said:
That's a race spec cover set up
Hello! How did you put that 90* in instead pf the plastic pcv? Thanks
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On 4/2/2019 at 10:13 AM, RobSR said:
Yes you will still leave the wiring there. Connect the necessary wires you need from the original ECU loom to the Monsoon.
Its the small plug that runs in the chassis loom (16 pin) You need vBatt, FP relay, EML, Speed signal etc from this plug.
I was told that MonsoonX might be able to manage the 5V output for the A/C computer. What do you think?
i would go coil on plug and will have oil pressure, oil temp and boost gauges running independent from the ECU. I want to be sure I will have enough outputs for the A/C IDLE signal.
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On 11/28/2023 at 11:57 PM, RobSR said:
I have my own basemaps, Link don’t supply one for 4E
No I don’t believe anyone can read a file from the stock ecu
Thank you. What do you suggest me to do? Buy Link MonsoonX or go with a EMU Classic? I have to be sure I have a base map to start the engine.
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On 4/2/2019 at 10:13 AM, RobSR said:
Yes you will still leave the wiring there. Connect the necessary wires you need from the original ECU loom to the Monsoon.
Its the small plug that runs in the chassis loom (16 pin) You need vBatt, FP relay, EML, Speed signal etc from this plug.
I was wondering if there are base map files for the MonsoonX Link for 4efte ep91. I hope that someone can help. P.S. is there a way to read a stock fte ECU?
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Hi guys. Anyone still here to ask a few questions?
I want to use a Corolla 1998 4efe for a forged engine project to be swapped with my 4efte. I am making a list of extra bits that I will need. Please help.
1) engine head is the same besides camshafts that will have to be replaced with 4efte ones
2) oil sump must be drilled for turbo oil feed return. I need the metal pipe to do it. Cannot find it. Help!
3) the fte engine block has an extra water drain cock that is probably used to feed water to the turbo. How can I manage that on the 4efe block?
4) knock sensor. The 1998 4efe should have the knock sensor but I still haven’t confirmed. If there isn’t one, I will have to get it drilled and buy a knock sensor.(who knows where)
I hope you can help to figure out my list before I purchase forged parts to get the clone done.
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Great post! Which torque should I use for the diff bolts?
what are the diff bearings ORM?
what’s the shimming tolerance?
I hope someone can help!
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9 hours ago, Claymore said:
To be honest Frankie I would say that the fte inlet manifold is the best suited option for the 4efte engine with the CT9 turbo, personally I would just stick with what you have.
As RobSR has said the corolla plenum is the smallest volume of all 3 common inlet manifolds, and has the longest runners which will magnify low down torque but will most likely lose power at the top end of the rev range as they're smaller diameter than fte.
The other issues off the top of my head are:
46mm diameter inlet flange on rolla manifold (needs the flange welding onto the plenum, or when you bore it out to 50mm for the fte TB the flange will fall off), IAT boss needs welding on, some sort of boss / remote setup for the IACV and the vac tube thing aswell (some people delete the iacv and wax stat, but unless its a "racecar" build I can't see it being much fun to live with), lack of vacuum sources for dump valve (maybe a vacuum block)...
Concentrate your time, money and effort on other mods.
You couldn’t be more clear! This all came to my head because back in the day is Sam told me about it. I was just curious to know if it was worth it but after what you said I’m going to stick to other mods! I’m going to upload new information about diffusion of the car soon!
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13 hours ago, RobSR said:
I would not bother. There is no evidence the ‘airflow’ is better, there is no plenum which a turbo engine likes and the runners are designed the way they are for an n/a engine to help with low end torque.
I appreciate your opinion.
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Hi guys.
Time ago @Sam44 suggested me too use the Corolla inlet on the FTE engine as the airflow is better. Considering the technical differences such as the vacuum pipes, the water pipes, the sensors and the Air Control Valve, I would like to know if I can use the FDE throttle on the Corolla inlet and add what is missing on the intake swapping it from the FTE intake. My major concern is the air control valve that is usually sitting on the left side of the intake and must be swap with the Corolla air sensor that will be charade in another position on the right side of the intake.
@sam44 pic shows how you can put the air sensor in the four in one intake side to remove it from the left side where the air control valve can be positioned if I could use the FTE throttle then the rest of the water and air pipes would be OK
let me know what you think!
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On 11/22/2020 at 11:01 AM, Sam44 said:
how to install the 4efte intake sensor or the original 4efe e11 intake temp sensor into the corolla intake manifold.
Sam! Happy Holydays! How have you been?
i was thinking to swap the 4efte manifold with the 4efe manifold but I would like to keep the 4efte throttle on. Is that poasible? I would just add the air temp sensor in the 4efe intake and the rest should be fine.
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On 4/19/2013 at 10:08 AM, mech5107 said:
It's the other way around.
The glanza turbo has the extra turbine fin, for better spool, so better low end.
Hello. I just received a CT9 A but I was aiming for the B version as my glands engine has CT9 B. What do you suggest doing? Is the extra turbine fin the only difference? I also noticed that the hot side ring is in a different material but I don’t know what could be different inside the turbine. @Jay
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6 hours ago, Claymore said:
I would check the gearbox has oil in it, also check if the oil has shiny metal particles from worn synchros. Replace and bleed clutch cylinders. Not sure about the differences in gear ratios from c52 to c56.
I already changed the box oil that was perfect. No metal pieces in it. We put the car on the bridge and put it in first gear. Moved the wheel and would hear squeaking in the gearbox on the opposite side of the differential.
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33 minutes ago, Claymore said:
gearbox is the problem.
Thank you for your feedback. The knocking noise happens when the engine is cold and I believe that it is a matter of tolerance between parts in the gearbox. When the engine gets warmer the noise is lower but then I have the gear inserts problem. Mostly when the engine is warm sometimes at the red light I can’t even get any gear in until I have to push it in. If CV joints or cables would be faulty then the problem would be all the time but it happens sometimes. Back in the days when my mechanic replaced the gearbox with the same one because the third gear was making noise, I got a better working gearbox but it still wasn’t perfect and I believe that after 120,000 km the problem got worse. I found some oil between the gearbox and the engine underneath the slave clutch pump. One of the reasons of the failure might be loss of oil pressure that doesn’t get the clutch off properly. I will order a new part and replace it with the new gearbox. I just found out that the gearbox I want to buy is not a C 56 but a C 52 instead from an EP 82 4efte. I read that because of the gear radio is different it isn’t a good option compared to the C 56. What do you think about this?
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On 11/10/2020 at 9:33 AM, Claymore said:
I would keep the 4efe gearbox that you have in the corolla. It should hold the power you want.
@Claymorehi there. Long time no speak!
I had a good good good time driving the car with the turbo engine and the Corolla 4efe gearbox. The gearbox wasn’t fresh it had already some synchronization issues plus probably the clutch master or slave release is leaking and it bothers putting in gears sometimes. I will replace them. Regarding the gearbox I still haven’t understood if Glanza V C56 is stronger and more reliable compared to my gearbox that should be a C140-150. My car is heavier compared to the starlet which means that shorter gears in the first gears help the engine and it is fun to drive. The C56 gearbox has longer shifts on the first, second and third gear. As you were The first two advise keeping my gearbox, I would like your advise whether or not to keep it buying a refurbished one or to switch to the turbo C 56 one.
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On 10/21/2012 at 11:55 AM, klyfax said:
A 4efe, 4efte non LSD is the same. The diff housing is not the same on a LSD 4efte box. It is bigger. Thats why you can't put a standard LSD in a non LSD box.
The end cap is the same, just in steel and alloy.
I am trying to figure out if the 4efe manual gearbox C140, C150 from a Corolla E11 (that is matching a 4efte from a Starlet Glanza V ep91) has the same transmission as the C56 that matches a 4efte manual Glanza v. I want to put in a KAAZ 1.5 LSD transmission. Anyone? @Jay @Claymore
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On 6/8/2018 at 3:51 PM, gorganl2000 said:
well, to be honest, i only bought the car when i knew i had all the parts to convert it to manual----i bought all this stuff first...lol
i bought the car, drove it home as an automatic, put all the manual conversion parts into the trunk and took it directly to the mechanic to be converted...so that was the extent of my auto experience---less than 1 day
iirc
for me, it was worth the hassle, as i strongly prefer MT
Hello. I hope you are going to read this. I have swapped a 4efte ep91 eutomatic engine from a Glanza V into a Corolla E11 and I am in the process of changing the exhaust manifold with an external wastegate for the next step that is adding a piggyback. The plan was a DET3 but then I read about this standalone and I got curious. My engine is in the same situation as yours. Does the MT standalone ECU work with the auto to manual engine conversion? Let me know. Thanks!
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Hey guys
I am planning to change the exhaust manifold with a turbo relocation kit with external wastegate. This means that I can use a piggyback to raise boost and finally Dyno the car and map the DET3. I am still looking for a base map that seems to be impossible to find for a 4efte.This said I would like to use the high/low boost solenoid to have the switch with two different boost pressures. What I need to know is if it is possible to make the solenoid work at different boost pressures. I heard that you can go low boost only if the set up is stock.
Let me know what you think. Thanks
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Hey guys. I just wanted to share with you that my car won a price in the special car category over 600 cars!
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22 hours ago, Claymore said:
It was Sam44 that suggested you use a low temp. thermostat. I just supplied the part number in case you wanted to try it.
I personally don't like them and only use the normal one for the engine.
In your photo it looks like the seal got pinched and cut the bottom off it.
Happy that it's all sorted now.
I have to say that I will continue using the stock thermostat. The problem I had with the spark plugs was probably caused by the engine recovery mode that I drove with a while due to the wrong wiring on the water temp sensor. I will check spark plugs in a few weeks to see if something changes but at least I will not blow the engine because of the liquid leak
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@ClaymoreI solved the problem changing the thermostat. The gasket was loose so the cover wasn’t sealing properly. This happened I think because are used a different thermostat that I don’t remember who suggested me was better to keep the engine temperature lower for the reason that the spark plugs were white gray. So I put back the OEM thermostat I had in the box and no more leak! Thank you for your help.
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Just now, Frankieflowers said:3 minutes ago, Frankieflowers said:
I tookfrom the box the last thermostat I had in the engine before changing it with one that opens at a lower temp it was someone’s advise (don’t remember who).
with the smaller ring thermostat and perfect gasket it went perfectly in sight and it stopped leaking!
Hi/Low boost set up help
in Intake, Turbo & Exhaust
Posted
Interesting reading this. What happens to the other port on the solenoid? Originally it goes on the cold side of the turbo. What if I send it to the higher side of the external Tial wastegate?