ste91

Is that with or without VAT? ToyTuning are sneaky pricks and show prices without VAT.

Do you have a decat? What manifold do you have? Is the exhaust mandrel bent?

Asian racing green gets me every time.

As far as I know if you heat the silicone up quite hot you will be able to stretch/shrink it a bit.

Cheers for the detailed reply. That's crazy lol your mate must have surely had a bad tune? Well that's another thing sorted then (I'm planning out what I want to do when I get a GT), I really didn't want to go through the hassle of Emanage or whatever, this seems much easier. Maybe get a wideband to keep an eye on AFRs? But after reading what you've said it doesn't seem necessary.

As everyone says Emanage or whatever would be better but I want to know a few more things about the plug & play ECU's before I rule them out. Is there much difference between the different brands or are they all basically the same? Any particular ones better than others or is it all down to the map that's on them? With all the usual bolt ons (mani/decat/exhaust/air filter/fmic) is it 100% safe to run a bar or just under it without any issues? (On a CT9) I'm not worried about power increase at this point, what I want to know is will it safely and reliably run the engine without over/under fuelling? I have heard these ECU's are slightly "self adjusting" and can handle up to a bar of boost. Do you need anything else (RRPFR?) or is it simply plug and play, turn the boost up to 0.9-1.0 bar and away you go?

I'm fairly certain it would be fine on forged internals. Just have to make sure it's running perfect so you don't melt something. I'd rather spend the money on a more "permanent" upgrade though...

Amateurs don't use nitrous oxide.

I thought it would have looked silly to post up a load of different topics at the same time asking all these questions... considering it's atleast a year or maybe less until I get a GT. But of course I've caught the "turbo bug" so have already started trying to learn as much as possible. A couple of weeks ago I knew barely anything about turbos Anyway thanks again. Also you missed a question

I also hate using the term "stage whatever" it sounds cheesey but didn't really want to say "XXX bhp setup" because of different ways of achieving the power. Oh and I didn't fancy making a load of different topics for a few short questions. cheers

no replies because I posted this at stupid-o-clock in the morning?

Also one last thing I forgot - Decat. I'd most probably have to get an SPS one (stainless steel) as they're a nice low price unless a Blitz one was for sale at the right time. Is stainless steel ok to put heatwrap on? Is it more likely to crack with it on? Is it even worth heatwrapping?

The Paseo and Starlet have the same manifold. The one from the Corolla looks like this: It is found on "bug eye" Corolla's and also on the Glanza S. You can get them from car breakers. Have a look on ebay and down your local breakers/scrapyard, I got mine off ebay for £25 delivered. Bargain!

Get yourself a Corolla inlet manifold. Expect to pay around £25-50 delivered for one. You will see a good gain in power throughout the rev range especially towards the top end.

We all know what the so called "stage 1" mods are but I just want to go over it and clear a few things up for myself. (Assume boost is running at around 12psi and is on the standard ECU). Exhaust system - I often see people saying 2.5 inch is the right size but there are exhaust systems out there with bigger diameters. I hear that a bigger diameter will encourage boost creep? If you were to go custom would 2.5 inch straight through be ok or is it better to have a middle box to keep the noise down? Is it ok to just go for an "off the shelf" option with a bigger diameter and not worry about it? Exhaust manifold - does heatwrapping these actually make a noticeable difference? I hear rumours about it shortening the life of the manifold and being dangerous, the usual shit, but I see a LOT of people still using it so I assume it's fine? Air filter upgrade - for keeping boost creep under control I think it may be wise to keep the EFI pipe but have the filter down in the bottom right corner of the bay away from any direct heat. I see alot of people just sticking the filter where the airbox is which seems pointless to me. Would it also make any difference if the EFI pipe was wrapped in heat reflective tape where it goes over the manifold? I can't see the point of using a front relocation kit if you're only going to have to restrict the airflow to stop boost creep. Uprated actuator - set at just under fuel cut would this be sufficient enough on it's own to control boost or is an EBC needed? I know there are benefits to having an EBC but are they really necessary at this point? FMIC - will this give any adverse effects i.e. lag or boost creep? Should there be much of a power increase at 0.85 bar? (Assuming using a cheapy intercooler like Japspeed/AB88 or HDI although JS/AB88 have shitty piping and the HDI core is massive). Ported wastegate - will porting the wastegate be enough to eliminate boost creep? Is the penny big enough to allow a large enough hole? Obviously at 0.85 bar it's right on the limit of fuel cut so even the slightest amount of creep can't be allowed.

If that fails there's always the sledgehammer. Just make sure you're accurate.

Pissing in the wind here but maybe try some WD40? It works for stiff bolts...

bait it with some catfood

Good vid but too much arty farty stuff for me.

Yeah me and Asad were talking about this a few weeks ago, I have NGK leads and I paid around £30-£40 for them but can't seem to find them anywhere now. Those K1's look decent though.

Nobody has any pics?

I can't find many pictures of two tones so does anyone have any good pics?

Nice mk3. 7MGTE/manual gearbox?

I can see you getting near that figure quite easily with the ITBs if it's around 110 as standard. Should be atleast as fast as a standard turbo Starlet I think.

Why is it set to such low boost? Why not run it higher? Standard internals can handle a bar aslong as the engine is healthy. Other than that, you could restrict the airflow a bit but then you'd lose power.