StarletRick

id check the selector cable. ive had them snap before now, so check those first before pulling the box.

Simon, you ground down your own discs did you? O RLY? also, he has stock levin discs, but had them milled down and grooved at HiSpec.

i think i have a set of brand new Project Mu rear pads at home... somewhere. i shall try to find them if you want them. and as for rear lines, talk to dave burwash, he has lines custom made, and they are win. get some.

if you want to restrict boost. get a boost controller. not an FCD. youll end up shagging your engine if you just fit an FCD. the fuel cut is there for a reason...

gots to be. the other dude looks like mikeys mate with the civic. so chances are, its them.

zep spoiler is gay ;[ but it isnt my car anymore!

they look like the levin twinpots. the st brakes are big single pots. the levin twinpots use the levin discs, with spacers behind them. and you have to get the discs reground smaller. a bit of work to do. but worth it. talk to SiCaln about it. hes had the work done on his car.

im not sure on a godzilla output. but it sounds like a big turbo.... if you want a greddy ecu, get the ultimate. it is much more tunable that the blue. and a good boost controller (i recommend a blitz dsbc) a turbo timer wouldnt go amiss. and if get a full set of gauges as well if i were you (egt, fuel pres, oilpres, oiltempo,watertemp, etc) you wont need an safc, as youre getting a piggy already with the ultimate. but to be honest. if you have to ask questions like this, are you really sure you are going to up to running and maintaining big power starlet? from experience, i can tell

phil, id leave cal to it. its a learning curve for him. he doesnt listen to anyone and just gets on with it spending money as he goes. as sure as the day is long, cal will keep doing stupid shit to his gt and fixing it. just let him get on with it, you advise falls on deaf ears.

ebay. they are about a tenner

pav is right, dawes devices are AWESOME. all the top drag cars dont run leccy boost controllers. they all run dawes devices, and thats running 40+psi... only reason i have an EBC is the in-cabin adjustability. if you only plan on running a set boost. a dawes device is the best thing evar. just DONT get them mixed up with a bleed valve, they are bloody crap!

Mr Chu was considering making them, but there wasnt enough interest. so your chances of getting one are pretty much zero. unless you have a one-off made. and itll cost you frigging LOADS

Keep it up lad, this is win

it wont be mapped for a hybrid, they just dont use them in japan. closest thing is a K1. 99% of all the "shelf" aftermarket ECUs for the EP are mapped as follows: fueling for 1Bar on CT9 Speedcut removed Fuelcut removed more agressive timing

not if you live 20 minutes away ^^ im gutted they moved it!

fconVpro gold a piggyback wash your mouth out with soap! its one of the best standalone ECUs you can get this side of a full on MOTEC kit. and it was mapped to about 1.4bar to accomodate slight overboost at 1.2 (if it was cold or something for example). i never had it mapped for more than that as the head was literally lifting off the block at 1.6 bar too much power i wanted to do it all properly, and not mess about and run risks. so it was set to a nice safe 1.2bar while i waited for ARP to make the 4E kit (the guy who mapped it is about 20 minutes from where i live, so remapping et

cal, yet again, youre wrong mate. K&N is one of the best filter medias you can get, its pretty much the same as the apexi though, so get that if youre worried about being "JDM". but do not cuss out K&N, they are great. now, meshing the turbo is shit. it lets crap in, and also reduces the amount of flow. with filters, its all about surface area, thats why most filters are not flat. they are wavey as it more than doubles the surface area within the given size. more surface area = more space to filter air. meshing straight off the turbo effectivly reduced the size of the actual

i havent seen any new wepr kits tbh. the old ones were gash, but if they have a new design etc and area actually well thought out. that may be a good road to take. anyone got any pics? id quite like to have a gander at one.

i would actually buy that off you. bear it in mind for when you got bored of it.

imo, that would be the best. HDI piping with a smaller core would work well. its getting that pipework seperate thats the prob...

you cant compare it to a 4e gt28. thats pretty much the limit for a 4e and youll need a decent whackk of boost to get that sort of power. the glanza is running a safe 1.2 bar. people run ct9s at that we did up the boost when mapping, and it was silly. registered over 350 on the dyno at 1.8bar, but it was jumping about on the rollers. 300hp in most starlets is the balls-to-the-wall max output, but not in my old one with some good ethanol injection, that engine would run 400hp at 2bar. i want to build another one

try RHD, but they aint cheap. that said, they are the best, so you get what you pay for.

IMO you cant beat the greddy kit. it fits perfectly, and the pipework is short and tidy.

they dont follow the line of the window exactly, they sit below it and the corners go up a bit at the ends. it all pulls together when you screw it on mate. dont worry. just drill out some bigger holes, and screw it on with washers. it gives you some play to get it fitted right.

my old glanza was pretty nippy. 300hp/270ftlbs @1.2bar. was well over 350 at 1.8bar