Glanza_Ragger

No worrys mate, what are you planning to paint ?

Fire some pics up bro

Halfords only mix lucerne silver. Its that silver base, but the moonstone blue has a different pearl mixed in. Different variation. Go to a proper paint supply shop and give them the number off you vin plate bro

as enzo said, a supra fuel pump doesnt flow quite as much though does it bro ?

or any type of fcd/bcc for that matter lol

But who would fit a hks fcd with out fuelling mods?

hks fcd's arent crap, if you set it right. only difference is the other brand boost cut controllers figure out when youre getting near fuel cut and adjust it automatically.

No worrys bout the questions, its good to have something to read and help with whilst im off work with bruised ribs lol. What year and model starlet do you have? That will determine the actuator type when you come to ordering it. EP82 GT - <92 - hole type EP82 GT - >92 upwards should be a pin type. It looks like yours is a pin type, ie, the actuator arm has a pin that pokes through the wastegate hole and then you fit a c-pin over to hold it. Have a look, yours should have a c-pin on the other side that you cant see in the pictures. 92 and pre 92 models have a hole that a pin goes in to hole it to the wastegate flap. Wideband is an oxygen sensor that reads how much air/fuel mixture there is in the gas. The sensor goes into the exhaust system after the turbo, it helps you to set up ecu's, fuel controllers etc. It works off of a voltage method, just the same as the stock lambda sensor they come with...But instead of just reading LEAN - NEUTRAL , the wideband sensors read LEAN - NEUTRAL - RICH. When you see cheaper kits for sale called narrowband, they will only tell you if the gas is leaning or running about neutral (stoich). There useless, as you want a wideband kit, which will show the full scale. What i did was to ditch the catalyst temperture sensor, at the bottom of the downpipe, cut the bung off that it threads into, drilled the hole larger to accomodate the larger bung, welded the new wideband bung in, and threaded the sensor in. There was a thread over on tgtt.com recently that showed test results for various different wideband kits, As i expected, the INNOVATE wideband kit came first, closely followed by the AEM wideband kit.. The innovate kit came first because it had datalogging capabilities, but said the aem kit didnt...Which is a lie because i have the aem type, and it can datalog. Unless you want to fork out a whole ton of cash for the innovate kit, go for the AEM one. Amazing quality gauge, sensor and wiring. And half the price almost of the innovate kits.Have a look at Dave Burwash's traders section over on toyotagtturbo.com for prices and a light description of it. About the boost setting question, its a bit hard to explain.. You set the actuator low, and use the boost controller to open it. The actuator will be set to open at a desired boost pressure, but what the electronic controller does is open the actuator early, but hold the pressure back in the solenoid which is electronically controlled. When the pressure has built to what ever you have set it at in the control unit, the valve will open and allow the turbo to boost up.It kind of just overrides the actuator and take the job over of holding boost back. Kinda hard to explain as i said ;) You definately want a hks actuator though, as the stock ones have holes in the base that bleed boost out. Say your on full boost on a stock actuator, at say 0.6bar, and you have constant throttle down, the boost pressure will keep dropping off due to it bleeding out of the holes. The hks types dont, so it cant bleed boost pressure out. One of the best modifications to the starlet in my opinion. And about the air filter question, In results the hks and blitz filters had the lowest scores for filtering dirt and dust particles, and you really dont want that in the turbo. For maximum airflow and dust filteration id suggest a power enterprise,apexi,k&n etc type of filter. Something a bit more denser meshed.Apexi's are supposed to be amazing, i sold my blitz sus intake because of the stainless mesh and the size of the filter. I couldnt relocate it to behind the front bumper due to the largeness... You might not want to relocate the filter just yet, but its definately something i wish i had thought about when i first payed out for it. I would never touch a hks filter, nor a blitz filter ever again. People will have varied opinions of filters as they would with all parts. Its personal pref ! Hope that helps a bit?

I thought you was serious too lol nice one ;)

every engine vary's mate. 2.8-3bar will be fine for near standard modifications. Allways play it safe and run it slightly higher, before i installed wideband i set my rrfpr at 3bar. When i wired my fcd and wideband up, it was running near spot on. I think i ended up lowering it ever so slightly though. Too long ago to remember. Installing the fuel pump and regulator shouldnt make you start hitting fuel cut. It may be a change in weather conditions, if its getting slightly colder denser air it could have pushed it just that bit more to hit fuel cut. If you have the hks actuator id definately fit that and set it just below fuel cut. Its a case of fit it, drive it.. Check the boost levels and lower it or raise it untill youre running just under. With the mods youre planning, you will 90% be hitting fuel cut due to the fmic, and the manifold and decat expelling the gasses quicker. The turbo will naturally boost slightly higher with out touching it. Id personally suggest getting a quality air filter, not the hks shiteass sponge type filter... along with an electronic boost controller to measure the peak boost levels youre hitting and to give you the extra control.Most will have some sort of limiter function which will automatically cut the boost down when it reaches the fuel cut level if you set it up that way. That way you wont need to wire a fcd in and can hold on for an ecu . That way you set the actuator at the lowest boost setting you want, and use the electronic controller to raise it to what ever you want youre high setting to be.Otherwise you will be stuck on the one boost setting which is determined by the actuator. It might be uber wet out one day and you want to run it lower boost for instance ;)

Mate, thats going to rip , rotrex supercharger?

Lol no idea why they have silly names for the colours

Hey, Welcome to the club! Im sure you will find out all you need to know here. Have a browse through the technical section as im sure somebody asked not too long ago, what to look out for when buying a starbo ;) Enjoy your stay Craig.

As rob said rich, Get onto the dvla and say they have made a mistake. Say they dont come with a catalyst as standard, they wont know if they do or not. So say how can it be cat tested when there not made with them in japland. GONKS ;)

Split glanza lights? I think youll probably find there sealed units, i wouldnt prise them apart otherwise the damp will get in when there back together. The yellowing occurs on the outside of the lends, not the inside

Yeah after youve cut it with a compound, just give it a coat of car wax, not polish. Something like meguiars tech wax will do. That sorta wax bro. They will yellow again over time but it will just delay it

Registered it as needing a cat ?? NO starlet turbo needs a catalyst. Unless its registered as a ukspec 1.3 n/a matey. Take it to another test centre, ideally one who mot mainly jap cars... You should never fail emissions on a 4efte unless its running mega fuelling. They must have assumed its a uk spec which needs a cat.

Imagine an old megadrive game... handling is like that. Online racing - you cant see the other drivers cars. only there times.. Go buy forza instead , and buy a full carbon fibre car off me ;)

;) Dont run 1.1 bar with just a fcd matey. Unless you want an uber mashed engine like mine ;) 1.1 bar youre going to want a pressure regulator and pump minimum, and thats the cheap dodgy route. every turbo timer is different, what type have you got ?

Any type of cutting compound.. I used g3 on my headlights, as they were yellow and mottled. Give it a quick wax over once youve cut the lights otherwise they will yellow again in no time ;)

its a silver 199. But its called Moonstone Blue (the blue comes from the tint in the paint) Ever noticed yours looks silver in direct sunlight but under street lamps it looks an off blue? ;)

Thanks guys ;) Yeah id call it a sort of mellow trancey electronica.. im working on a more of a darker type of tune, just putting the finishing touches to it. This is like a dark,grimey type of breakbeat/dnb. No doubt ill post it straight up ;) Nice lunch joz ;) i used Reason for that track but i do sometimes use Sonar 3 and also Acid (The program) lol

Alrighty, let me know youre opinions of my new tune i made.. Bit of a long download http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/4/7327...20For%20You.mp3

Hey, Hope you enjoy the world of the starbo

i thought LEDA was still in essex?! There the king of suspension setup's. about £150 for a full geo setup. Camber,castor,toe, height setup