NightSpirit

strange question this, good friend of mine is building a track ep...he's currently lightening all he can and he's hit upon the rad overflow tank. I understand how this system works and why it's there but (and only a but) if you removed the overflow and let the top pipe to it from the rad just vent to the floor, would the rad just heat up and expel all its fluid or only a certain amount (like when you bleed the coolant system). If it only expels a small amount, you could in theory top up the rad after xx months/days/minutes. If the rad is full but the overflow tank is empty the vacuum in the s

doh, will do it tonight..remind me!

Rick has a point, a tin of hard paint like BBQ paint or something is the key, you can even do it with a small roller. Outside the car I'd use rattlecans, or should I say I did.

I have one sat outside the house..I was modifying it to fit the EP (it was for the early Mk1 bumper). They cost about £250 ish shipped to the UK, I get them direct from Purple Speed (Doobie). They are an aquired taste but very well made and come ready to paint gelcoat black. Mark

Oh and buy a Varley Red Top 8 battery to save myself another 10kg ;)

Don't worry Rikko, there's enough of me to go around, I'm like warm butter (of the man variety). Next task is the front bumper then hopefully whack these 550cc injectors in there.

Cannards are staying ;) You're right Rick, stick on vinyl plates are the future, will get one for the front I think.

Wedsport TC05s 15" Mr Bruiser. Riko, Fishy was down to collect the Blitz FMIC and to hug initially but plans are afoot...I'll say no more. Scutch, you're more than welcome man..not sure when Fishy is coming down again (maybe for some bits he's bought) but come along. Yup the rear plate was hidden under the top of the bumper...sorted that now (front plate is a naughty bike plate anyway so I knew that was all kinds of wrong...I'm holding off till the HRF bumper shows up) Cheers again people, means a lot to hear your thoughts, good and bad, it's not perfect but for a trackday weapon it's diff

Cheers chaps, Without the rear wing it looks a bit odd and the poly carb needs some decals etc (Rob get me some photo decals done)...where can I get a uksc decal from? The paint isn't perfect, roof is a mess but it's taking me tooooo long now and I just want it done. Also took it out for a spin at the weekend, got pulled by the old bill illegal front plate, illegal rear plate and er...*cough* no tax disc (Rob and Fishy know all about that one) anyway the car is taxed so I got off with a £30 fine

Little update, the wing is still undergoing repair by me..but the lid is on, while I was at it (and because I had some spare polycarbonate lying around) I whipped out the rear 1/4s and replaced em with poly carb. Other stuff... With 7kg saved on the bootlid and 2kg saved on the rear glass, I'm running out of things to lighten without getting silly...725kg is the weight. Bootlid and rear 1/4s for sale here: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....t=0#entry132707

Sorry I'm rambling.. basically, the stock alternator is obviously creating enough amp to run the car and charge the battery...otherwise the battery would run down. So, providing the Red Top 8 has enough power to crank the car without a jumping battery (that would be gay) it should charge on a normal journey and definitely charge with the trickle charger at home...so...I think, the baby Varley will do what I need it to do on the car even though its charge capacity is 7amp. 2.7kg battery ftw

My opinion...is why? The Jag has a heated front screen and the tiny filaments...once you've seen them...you can't miss them ever again (Ford own the rights to the heated front screen design). The screen clears quickly but that's what a heater/AC does. Ditching the heater and running the screen is a good idea, although the weight of the screen (what's it weigh over stock?) is high up weight, raising the centre of gravity. But for people who are serious about weight reduction (and will actually remove the heater) I doubt this would appeal..unless they suffer from bad screen fogging (thank god

ALWAYS use lubricant when indulging in any type of ring activity...those are the basics...some people never learn

So the GT is going to be a minimum of 70Amp...now I only need to find the draw on that. Anyone know the Amp per hour of the stock battery? As it stands the alternator is doing enough to run the car and charge the battery, so I'm guessing with a smaller battery the charge used to start the car should be replenished even on a Red Top 8, even if it's slow the battery won't deplete totally so if I run it on trickle charger at all times it should be fine :S

I'm buying a Varley race battery as the stock one weighs in at 12kg...does anyone know what current the alternator produces? and what sort of draw the car pulls when running (no stereo/heater etc) just driving the car with a rad fan on constant, maybe wipers/lights... This dictates what size battery I can get away with. I want to run the Red Top 8, but may have to run a 15 or 20. Help me pwease!

Coolio... I'll do nothing and just turn up and destroy you all ;)

Good idea Si, I was thinking that...approach a mag like jap Performance etc and ask them if they want to do a feature on the event, they'd provide the timing gear, we'd sort the venue. It'd have to be a damn hot and sticky day for me to produce anything legendary. And the weather would have to be good for timing the car too ;)

I know that GT-ART (and others) can run 1/4 mile etc simulations on their rollers. But I agree with Rick, an airfield day..say Brunters would be good, we'd need to find the proper timing gear from somewhere though...none of this G-Meter bollocks.

Maybe we should organise a timed day...can even do this at certain rolling roads ?

Hi Joe, With a decat you should get more noise from the exhaust as there is less restriction on the gas flow...so yes it'll be louder.

Can you not use celulose thinners on the bad bits...that'll remove the shit. Then rub down the paint and metal with scotch brite (off ebay) to rough up the surface, then apply Halfords metal primer finishing off with matt black paint all over Why people feel the need to do this to other people's property is beyond me. If you find them and are capable of getting medieval on their asses I suggest nitromors to the face.

and no I didn't strip the radiator with my eyes....I used a paint stripper like normal folk.

Why not go matt black? it's the future... That NitroMors is nasty shit. Stripped a radiator with that a few months back, my eyes still smart now

Basically, Within an engine is oil, oil gets hot, oil expands, produces gas/vapour. This gas needs somewhere to go, so the pipe on the cam cover is most manufacturer's way of solving the issue. It feeds the gas back into the inlet of the car whether that be the filter pipe or the inlet manifold/throttle body area. Removing it is a very good idea...as you can imagine, oil gas and sometimes oil residue itself getting into the system where the fuel is mixed and ignited will lower the det of the mixture, robbing you of power, not to mention getting oil coating on everything (look at most BOV's..

Nice healthy car that is, nicely up on stock, you should be proud of it.