WallaceGlanza

It's akki who was banned off tgtt.com You'll find some very mixed opinions of him.

PSI or bar is just personal preference really, it's metric or imperial. 1 bar is 14.5psi, standard you can only run up to 0.8 bar or about 12psi at the most as much above that and you'll hit the fuel cut (a safety feature of the standard ecu to prevent over boosting and hence running lean).

That's exactly what you should expect to find in an oil catch can - oily gunk,the oil that collects in the can will gain moisture from atmosphere and end up like that. Just empty it out and if it fills up again quickly the engine may be breathing heavily.

They're not standard, there will be no benefit to just fitting them on their own, it would if anything make the car overfuel. They'll only be of benefit if they're actually needed ie the standard injectors aren't able to supply enough fuel, this will only happen when running over 200bhp.

If it's got a full td04 kit is it mapped suitably to run it properly? As you may blow another head gasket or worse if not.

What like Rota's? I don't think they're Rays, Rotas or Inovits. They seem to have writing on the top of them between the spokes saying what they are but I can't read it. Maybe "UTG Sports"

Nismo = NISsan MOtorsport, so no it's not made by Nismo. Looks like an autobahn one.

So you got a compression test done? What was the results? An oil catch can will just be hiding the problem not fixing it.

Yes you'll need to take the cluster out to change the bulbs. A "how to" wouldn't really help as the hard part is just getting your hands in the back to remove the speedo cable and electrical connections, there's not really a trick to it you just need to feel what you're doing. There is three elctrical plug connectors one at either side and one in the middle - all at the top, you need to press the clip on them then pull at the same time and they will come out (one at a time obviously), the speedo cable is the same.

Yes they are. I feel the same about my eyebrows, mostly I like them but sometimes they don't look right...

Yes and please post in the correct section.....

Voting opened: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....t=0#entry341320

You know the deal vote for the best, multiple voting is enabled. Good luck all. :harhar: 1. mattgtt 2. LukeSR 3. ktl 4. addz 5. ep brad 6. jobo 7. Jaystar77 8. riko666 9. glanza gemz 10. DavidAshton 11. mcbeal 12. dale10ellis10 13. scottyglanza 14. Duncan Glanza 15. Dean-JDM-ep*1 16. micky boy 17. Eamon

I'm pretty sure racetech supplied dane with the "SPS" mani's, aswell as the oil feeds....

A simple toyota badge in the centre or a "V" in the same stlye as the standard graphics would go ok I think.

Measure the pipework?

Yes, you don't need to take the whole cluster out to change the dial face. Just to make you feel bad I just removed mine half an hour ago, I find it a piece of piss to remove. The speedo cable just pulls straight out, it's actually the easiest to remove, just squeeze the clip and pull, it's right in the middle exactly in line with the speedo needle.

No, they don't have the restriction, although it may raise the boost slightly bypassing the hi/lo solenoid.

That is standard on all glanza's and yours are the same: Maybe they just need a good clean? Autosol cleans them up well if they're foggy? As for rear lenses: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5 However that's an old post so you'd best phone toyota for a current price.

That's just standard front headlights? Do you mean you want the indicators to look the same?

Tinted front lights?! I'd rather be able to see where I'm going at night.... The rear's in that style pop up for sale every so often and the lenses alone can be bought from toyota for cheaper.

The glanza lenses are just screwed on. Tinting them looks tacky imo though, you may prefer the 98 style lights?:

Turn the knob on top to adjust the damping to the lowest setting and ensure there is 0 preload on the springs when fitted, ie when on the car the springs should just be held in place but not loose or compressed at all.

Yes.

Just to add some info after I've been looking at the differences between genuine Greddy Type S BOV's and the fake/replica one's on ebay (mostly from lithuania). Firstly the text for the "SOFT" on the top sits much closer to the edge of the arrow on the fakes than on the genuine one's; Genuine: Another Genuine: Fake; Another point is the dimple on the flange which can be seen again in this photo; This is only on the side without the "greddy" writing and I would be pretty certain will not be on the fakes. (It would be good to get some more pictures of a fake for comparison) The final thing is the fake one's are too shiny, they don't look right, this is a new genuine one which is much duller straight out of the box; Fake; The polystyrene of the box is also cut squarer in the genuine one. This is all a bit speculative and obviously doesn't give any definite or obvious differences to look for but it may help.