WallaceGlanza

I was nipping it in the bud before it went to far with insults already being thrown about. As I already said it's best not to jump to conclusions when looking for a problem but it's good to have a range of opinions/problems to check for when looking for a solution.

If the oil is very bad that's not a good sign -my original turbo basically welded itself together due to oil starvation becuase of the oil feed being blocked (after a garage did a very bad job changing my cylinder head). Hopefully once you have some fresh oil in yours it will be ok. Let us know how you get on once it's back to together though

Topic cleaned, if you don't have anything useful to say on this topic then don't bother posting. It is sensible to always check the easy things first, in this case check the actuator is connected, check all intercooler pipes are ok and leak free and that the vaccuum hoses are connected properly etc If the turbo wheel is hard to turn then it could be seized - the bearing may be damaged, but it's not always best to jump to conclusions. I agree with checking the simple things first.

Could be the manifold gasket leaking, it really is very likely to be a leak from around the mani anyway, if you're really unlucky the head itself could be cracked at the exhaust port as that's fairly common on 4eftes.

There's no power difference between the engines, both have 133bhp as standard. If the yaris is a good bit heavier it will obviously be slower? If you had it mapped was it not dyno'd, or was it just road mapped?

http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....showtopic=10769

If the exhaust gases are leaking significantly before the turbo then obviously the spool of the turbo will be effected.

Agreed, use the genuine toyota one's.

What kind of mani is it? The flange face onto the head could be warped.

If you've undone all 3 bolts then it should just pull off.

Why not change the cv joint and see if the noise go's away before worrying that there is something else wrong?

Bump just means to bump up the topic to put it at the top of the forum so somebody will see it and answer your question.

Post the link to ebay not the number ie: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...%3D1&_rdc=1 Much easier! As for the gaskets, they look cheap, get genuine toyota one's from toyota - they'll be much better.

They all do the same thing but it would be better to get a good brand that you can rely on as it's obviously not good if it breaks! They're easy to fit but you'll need it set up on a rolling road to ensure the fuelling is ok.

JDM geek.

Yes.

As above, please just update your build thread instead of opening a new topic.

It should click at each stage then stop when you get to the end like you say, unless they're cusco zero 1's which don't actually have damping adjustment,but if they were I wouldn't think they would have the dial or numbers. Do they all just keep turning when you adjust them?

1 is softest.

It's a big nut, the same size as the drain plug about 20mm maybe, can't remember exactly.

Yes there is a level plug on the side of the casing that you remove, when the oil starts coming out there thats it full. You can see it when looking from the front of the car halfway up the gearbox.

If the pipe work narrows then gets larger again it's going to restrict the flow of the gases, so it's bull.

When the rear fog light is on there has to be a "tell tale" that it's on, so either the switch needs to light up or yu have a light on the dash like the standard uk cars have.

That's a uk starlet though yes? Imports don't have a rear fog as standard, you do need the button to light up when on, I have my rear fogs wired too a nasty big blue halfords switch that lights up. The standard fog light switch doesn't have a light so it's probably easiest wiring the rear one into a seperate switch with a light.

Please post in the relevant section - in this case the "wanted" section, or send a private message to the member you're after.