WallaceGlanza

Apparently when dyno'd in standard form most new RS's struggle to make 300bhp, most are more like 280bhp.....

Yes, undo the hub nut and bash it out.

I find the 1144 crap too, no pedal feel and fade very quickly with not much heavy use.

I saw less than ten glanza's and Gt's in the month I spent in Japan two years ago and that was doing a lot of travelling, I counted well over 60+ original mini's in the same time though. So they're certainly not common over there now.

Not a good idea running 1bar with the standard exhaust manifold either as it has a nasty restriction in it,you can either get an aftermarket one or port the standard one. Also the "plug and play" ecu's are only good if they are setup to suit the mods you have and not many of them are sold with a list of what they're mapped for, otherwise they'll usually run very rich so you can obviously get a better tune with an emanage or similar.

An fcd with no fuelling mods is a recipe for disaster. If you want to keep the car standard then do that - put the 1st and 2nd gear restriction back in and that should lower the boost enough to avoid fuel cut, however differentcars react differently. Any slight modification to the intake or exhaust systems can have an effect on the boost levels the turbo will run at, colder weather also makes a big difference. The first thing to do if you do want to mod the car a little is to get a boost gauge to see the boost you're running, if it is overboosting I would then advise on getting an uprated actuator as that will help control the boost better than the weak standard actuator.

The standard water temp gauge is not accurate at all, by the time it shows you're overheating the damage will probably be done so I wouldn't rely on it at all. Oil pressure, oil temp and water temp would be best.

It's a horrible idea and car.... that is all.

Search for the part numbers or use toyodiy.com then call toyota for an accurate answer.

Learn a bit of throttle control instead of just "pedal to the metal" then you won't hit the fuel cut.

Lol it was just a little dig, this is a toyota forum afterall. I certainly don't think vtec's sound that special, not many four pots sound that amazing though.

Is this guy better than the "Supra Man"?.... his vtec sounds good, well as good as a vtec can sound! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_GAfX-mB7M

Might help if you tell us the wheel width!

The HDI has a different piping route though....

Open the boot, pull off the plastic covers behind where the lights are then twist the bulb holders to remove them - all three of them, then the whole light cluster can be pulled off and then simply undo the screws to take the lense off.

Depending on what intercooler it is then yes you may need to remove the aircon to fit the pipework, or you'll have to modify the pipework.

It might be running lean if you've just whacked on a hybrid with no fuelling mods.

You can get it under there without cutting it but it's bloody awkward and doesnt look good, easiest just to trim a little away.

If the car is basically standard leave it at 0.8bar Boost levels are not something to play with if you don't know what the effects are and especially if you don't have the appropriate modifications to support the increase in boost. My advice would be to do some research and start learning about turbo'd cars if you want to start tinkering, as damage can easily be done by just turning the boost up.

You'd be better with uprated shocks but the standards would cope ok, their lifespan will probably be shortened though. PS: Please post in the correct area.

You can road map a car and then you won't have a dyno readout, the only things you really need to map a car (other than the tuneable ecu/fuel controller etc) is an afr gauge (wideband) and det cans. On the original question - the most I would advise to run on the standard ct9 is 1 bar, over that and your getting out of the turbo's efficiency range and it will just be blowing hotter air without making much - if any more power so the extra strain your putting it under isn't worth it.

No. You should easily be able to get the stud out with the turbo in place, just get some mole grips on it.

It's good to see you branching out into a full trading position geo, I'm sure you'll be excellent to deal with and wish you the best of luck with it - although I don't think you need it.

Those studs can be removed easily and new one's bought from toyota, not really a big problem.

It's not a good place to have a temperature sensor as it's so vulnerable, you don't want it getting ripped out by a stone then losing all your oil....