ryan lang

To much trust or to lazy to work out 4% ? I've been guilty of laziness, but luckily it worked out okay. Always always pay the 4% even if you trust them, because if shit goes tits up in the post, you can still sort it through paypal. I'm sure it will be resolved, but next time always pay the 4% as there's nothing we can do if you haven't!

Nah I've sorted a set now boss. I'm on my phone so I can't. Try messaging one of the other mods sorry dude. My home Internet is down until Wednesday

Cowboys and Indians? If your in an ep91 cowboy, ep82 Indian?

£20 and an approved thread ;) haha. Nah I can't in approve it now, you'll have to re do it sorry bud

I had a nose and there were no pics at the time Ill have a nose again niw

lol ive sold full sets with shocks and fitted them for £50 ;)

lulz! no worries

for £20 ill have them! how much delivered?

any chance you'd split the front and rear shocks mate? only after fronts.

Vids or gtfo!

Was expecting this

Yeah the high from top to bottom of the lobe is some what irrelevant. It's more the progression of lift and duration than overall height. Just depends where you want your power to come from in the rev range I'm sure I read 'in a book' that they used to make cams with a different standard point of measuring so they all agreed to start making cams with the same point and it was at 0.05 or 0.005 thousands of an inch I believe but the book was slightly American so I wouldn't know wether they agreed upon this in all countries and tuning scenes lol.

Anyone? Need them by Wednesday! Mot on Thursday

Surely it should be duration not lift that you would be wanting to measure anyway? Depending on what your after from your cam If its pointy but taller (lobe) it could open a little more, but be open for less time than that with a wider nose (lobe) which will be open for longer and let more in? Saying that it depends what you want from your engine. Mid range top end power/torque would be better with more duration, and for low end torque you'd be better with a little more lift? Rmsnoel, what's your working background by the way?

Need front lowering springs for less than £50 delivered please boys and girls. The lower the better. I know I've sold 2 full sets of lowering springs with shocks for £50 so surely some one can sell me just front lowering springs for that delivered Thanks bitches Ryan

Shhh don't say it out loud, Tom and woody will hear you! Haha

Same with pm's I no longer get a notification email since the switch

you can buy 70mm ones from aus, but delivery costs more than the actual springs and they only do them separately front or rears

im pretty sure an old member (nastyrash) has done the checks and said that only the 5efhe cams differ in lift and duration and anyone who knows chris (nastyrash) knows that boy knows his shit haha

You lose power through frictional forces and momentum changes in the transmission so the fly figure is always going to be higher than the wheel figure So is it 110 at the fly? And that's with quite a bit of work too. The biggest difference maker in power was the ecu i imagine?

Can you write a list of your mods and a pic of your graph to this thread please mate? Would be much appreciated

Obv, but bolts ons are cheaper and more readily available than custom. Mapping is essential hence why I mention it a few times

Get it dyno'd

Only know of 2, one I can't remember his name and one is motion, oh who's done a lot of the above. I'm not saying you need everything above to make 100bhp, it's just a lot of what can be done. But most of the above is just bolt on. Swap for swap no spacers and fittings needed making up etc.

This is a list of all the things I'd done/planned to do to my old n/a before I was laid off and went back to school. The most important thing to gain power is the mapping/ecu section to take advantage of all the modifications, without it you'll be lucky to see 100 because the standard ecu just can't cope N/A Performance List Engine: 5EFHE cams (not 5EFE) Lightened pulley sets Head skim for compression Ported head Valve springs (there are some uprated valves springs for 4EFTE that can be used in the 4EFE. Eg: speedvision, cruise) Exhaust: 4-2-1 corolla bugeye exhaust manifold OBX racing 5e manifold Hotshots 4e manifold (rocking horse shit, hens teeth etc) Custom mani back exhaust (or cat-back) Heatwrap Fuelling: Corolla bug eye injectors (beige/brown in color) Fuel Pressure Regulator (to help with map) After market Uprated Ignition leads Spark plugs NGK heat range 6 or 7) Could go coilpacks if going nuts but probably not needed) Inlet: Corolla bug eye inlet (tubular manifold) 4efte inlet manifold 4efte Throttle Body Cooling: Civic alloy dual/triple core radiator (personal preference on core) Air filter (apexi is tried and tested, but whatever you can afford) Low temp thermostat Drive train: Lightened flywheels (various after market ones available) If you go for an off the shelf flywheel, you may need to buy the equivalent FTE clutch kit because the n/a lightened flywheels are really hard to come by Corolla G6r 6 speed gearbox (requires shifter unit and cable mount brackets, possibly the actual selector cables) i may be wrong but its do-able Lightened and balanced crank (if your going all out why not. should get the clutch and flywheel balanced at the same time as the crank) LSD (they are available for the n/a 5 speed but rare. same as the 6speed. best off buying a glanza box and lsd if you dont go 6speed Management: Best way to go is aftermarket ecu, Emanage, Motec, Megasquirt etc (key modification to get the best out of these mods, if your going this crazy) THEN to control all the gained power (probably only around 30bhp if your lucky) Brakes: Levin Twinpot callipers and corolla d4d discs (unsure if they are the correct discs, but there are enough people on here runnign sets to find out) Celica st205 Twinpots (think they are the same as the levin twinpots) Celica st185 big pot calliper (unsure on discs but will refer back to this when i do) GT/Glanza carriers and disc's Then there are the bigger aftermarket kits like wms, k-sport willwood etc. (bit overkill but if you like flashy then go for it) Suspension/Chassis: Whiteline adjustable rear anti-roll bar Front and rear strut braces Coilovers (dont go lowering springs if your buying for performance) I found the c-pillar bar helped aswell Anti lift kit Uprated front anti-roll bar Polybush engine mounts Any other various strengthening bars Tyres! The biggest difference maker is weight saving for straightline power. so what ever you dont need, get gone (rear seats, right through to smaller batteries and taking a dump before travelling etc) Handling is also the best sector to be modifying these cars in for track use, if you dont want to be shedding out a shed load of dollar AND MOST OF ALL: keep it serviced and looked after!