Keri-WMS

Sliders sticking or internally collapsed brake line I suspect.

I just had a look and I can't see anyone who's bought one of our kits having them - but it's honestly really easy to use the PDF templates - and if anyone's not sure about printing them 1:1 just PM me your name/address and I'll stick some printouts in the post to you!

295x26mm Starlet brackets in the flesh, got them today! I'm chuffed with them, they duck "inside" the disc, meaning that even though the disc is thicker than the previous kits it is actually further away from the wheel spokes (in terms of offset). Curvy!

295x26mm Starlet brackets in the flesh, got them today! I'm chuffed with them, they duck "inside" the disc, meaning that even though the disc is thicker than the previous kits it is actually further away from the wheel spokes (in terms of offset). Curvy!

Yep, that's right - marker pens...I was just showing similar-to-sticker-bombing "wrong" but cool things I'd found. I really like the look, esp with two colours. Like most things it looks good if the person doing it has a good "eye"! I would also like to flock an entire car, that or sandtex! Bit like this: Not sure this would last long though!

Found a few interesting things earlier: http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143695 http://s3.amazonaws.com/data.tumblr.com/tu...kbEeibo%2Fq4%3D ..and..

Sweeeet!

Actually they came about due to the German thing for "kick bass" - very punchy as they have smaller cones that are more directly connected to the voice coils. They do need an active crossover though (ie the amp has the crossover built in) as they don't do well in the midrange!

I've always thought the same thing - a bit of friendly rivalry and associated cross-forum banter FTW!

My dad sells these 6"/300w (100wrms) beasties, they are MENTAL for their size, and only need a box about the size of a shoe-box. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220872040172 - Check out the mad videos he took! Genuinely as good as the average 10" or even 12" sub due to how far they travel! I just asked if he'll do you guys any kid of deal and he's happy for me to organise a group buy if people are interested (and it's ok with the mods etc): 1-3 = 5% off 4-8 = 10% off 9-15 = 15% off 16-29 = 20% off 30+ = 25% off Just a thought!

Looking cool! Might be worth getting the tank and lines as far from the back of the car as you can in case you end up in a rear-end shunt? (with fuel inside the car, not in a tank under the car)

I've done the new bigger kits PDF in preparation for the brackets arriving... 4P157 - 295x26 size kit (printable clearance test profile: 295x26 kit PDF ) = £474.86+vat (probably)

I've done the new bigger kits PDF in preparation for the brackets arriving... 4P157 - 295x26 size kit (printable clearance test profile: 295x26 kit PDF ) = £474.86+vat (probably)

If I suggested tubbing the wheel arches and fitting drift arches would I get lynched? (like this http://mk1escortrebuild.blogspot.com/2011_01_01_archive.html ) I want to do that to my Mk1 MR2. All I'll need then is those wheels......

There's a 2.2 version of the 'FE engine (5SFE), I'm pondering building a 2.2 3SGE (in effect a 5SGE) n/a engine in a Rev 1 tintop. As a rough guide (in theory) it would turn the 159bhp version of the 3SGE into 174.9bhp, and the 177bhp version into 194.7bhp before fitting anything aftermarket. Has to be said that power really isn't everything - I outpaced loads of cars (inc a Porsch) round brands hatch the other day with my weedy 119 ponies. Your mate has WMS brakes if I'm not mistaken!

No problem! Just did a trackday at Brands Hatch in mine - did pretty well! There were three Mk2s there, one of them span at Paddock Hill in front of me....!

I've been trying to get exact figures to make the point about the weight etc, but the internet is very chinese whispers about kerb weight etc. Found this lot: From Carfolio: 1990 (119bhp sSFE) Coupe - 1265kg - 0-60 9.3sec 1990 (154bhp 3SGE) GT - 1275kg - 0-60 8.0sec 1996 (168bhp 3SGE) GT - 1280kg - 0-60 7.5sec From Wikipedia: 1991 T-top Turbo = 1262kg 1991 n/a (normal roof?) = 1179kg Changes to the suspension geometry, tire sizes and power steering in 1992/93 were made in response to journalist reports that the MR2 was prone to "snap-oversteer". As a counterpoint to the snap-oversteer phenomenon of the MR2, other journalists point out that most mid-engine and rear engine sports and super cars exhibit similar behaviour, and that a change to the driver's response to oversteer is really the cause. In any car, braking shifts the weight forward, and acceleration to the rear. When drivers enter a corner with too much speed, and lift the throttle mid-corner, the weight transfers forward causing the rear suspension to toe-out the tires, the recipe for cut-throttle oversteer, or even a spin. When improper steering inputs were made attempting to correct this non-power-on oversteer, the rear of the MR2 would swing one way, then wildly (and quickly) the otherâ??thus the term "snap" oversteer. Toyota elected to change the MR2 suspension and tires to reduce the likelihood that this would occur, though many drivers would lament the change and claim that it "neutered" the sharp edge the MR2 was known for.[18] Toyota claimed that the changes were made "for drivers whose reflexes were not those of Formula One drivers." [19] http://www.pistonheads.com/GASSING/topic.a...=0&t=573990 UK Market Rev 1 + 2, coupe and T-Bar. 3SGE engined N/A (GTi 2.0) 158bhp, 0-60 7.5, 140mph 3SFE engined N/A 119bhp, very slow! Rev 3, 4 + 5 3SGE engined N/A 173bhp, 0-60 7.5, 140mph Rev 5 BEAMS engined N/A approx 190bhp 0-60 6.5 (quite rare and sought after) Jap Market Rev 1 + 2 (coupe and t-bar) 3SGE engined N/A (G-Limited) 158bhp, 0-60 7.5, 140mph 3SFE engined N/A 119bhp, very slow! 3SGTE engined Turbo (GT+GT-S) 220bhp 0-60 5.7, 155-160mph Rev 3, 4 + 5 3SGE engined N/A (G-Limited) 173bhp, 0-60 7.5, 140mph 3SGTE engined Turbo (GT+GT-S) 241bhp 0-60 5.2, 155-160mph Rev 5 BEAMS engined N/A approx 190bhp 0-60 6.5

Sadly those vids are not me - I did manage a clean lap but the time was 5min 38.988sec ...

..but then I saw this (not mine)! www.youtube.com/watch?v=kuJ7pghPWBY This is the actual record (not mine) ( ) but it's not as good to watch.

Ok, maybe I'm losing the plot. Buuuuut....is it just me or have all the Gran Turismo concept cars (but three) GONE from the GT dealer? I hope I'm missing somthing here, there were several I wanted to buy that it now seems I can't! EDIT - looking at this http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=132309 maybe there WAS only three cars in the Gran Turismo dealership (plus the ones you win). I just thought there were more. Maybe I'm thinking of GT5 Prologue?

Yes please!

Ah, that's a good point, there are three roof types: 1. T-Bar, nice but heavier/more flex. 2. "Moon roof" (sunroof). 3. Tin-top, these are JDM import only as far as I know and are the best for a track car, lightest and strongest. (possibly more insurance on an import though)

The Mk1's got a bigger engine bay funnily enough! Handling between a Mk1 and a Rev1 Mk2 isn't a million miles apart, the Mk2 has better grip out of corners but the Mk1 is more chuckable. They will be more rotten by now though. Here's what I found under my Mk1 (still off the road, the Mk2 is a "runabout"): I'd already done this! Little buggers!

If you want the "driver's" Mk2 make sure it's a Rev 1. Reasons: 1 - Lighter 2 - More supercar-like suspension goemetry. 3 - No power steering, no ABS, better for driver input. If you want all the toys get a later one. The reason the Rev 2> wasn't as nimble was because Toyota found out that the average person actually isn't up to driving something that's like a supercar - so people kept crashing them. As far as I can tell the reason is you can drive it right up to the limit of traction in a fast corner because it's so well balanced, but if you then come off the throttle mid corner you'll swap ends. The later cars do things like dive TWICE the amount under braking due to the changes Toyota made. And ok the later n/a ones are more powerful than earlier ones, but due to the extra weight they are not any faster! I would get a nice rev 1 GT, or a cheap turbo with a blown engine, and do a V6 swap. Or look for a ready made V6 one, they are out there. (I've got a Rev 1, but it's the slow one - oops.... ) Watch for rotten sills / arches, and high milage engines (I bought a GT, I knew the cills were gone which I was welding but the engine turned out to be toast at 160k so I had to scrap it - ie went on eBay for £90!!!)....and the low power 3SFE "coupe" version I got by mistake. Lastly the calipers are NASTY and are nearly always seize - luckily there is a solution! Here's mine:

Some tracks like Brands Hatch really don't like them due to the noise.... (on trackdays at least)