Keri-WMS

Cheers Wayne!

I saw a set of photos from a Ksport installation on TGTT and there was a bag of shims in with the kit, and the guy did use them from what I remember. I can't find the thread now, was a few months ago now.

I think it has to be said it depends a lot on what your priorities are. The main difference between Ksport and WMS is that they have alloy bells.....but we WILL offer these at some point, and they will be a retro-fit to anyone who has a WMS kit already. This also means you can be sure the wheel offset (and therefore handling) hasn't been messed up by thick mounting flanges that many alloy bells resort to in order to get wheel clearance - we use a lower profile caliper instead as it's good to keep the wheels where Toyota designed them to be! Most people are looking to save unsprung weight, and

Replied, sorry about that!

Not yet I'm afraid!

Sorry guys, I'm on catchup mode again! But there's a batch due very soon, and we increased the volume so there are still some available. Everyone who's sent me a PM will get a reply, and I owe three people printed and cut out PDFs, I'll get them done ASAP! Sorry for being a bit slow lads...

Sorry for being a bit slow on this - drop me a PM with your address and I'll post you a template to try inside your wheels, I owe someone else a lend of one so I can take them both to the post office at the same time. We've got a batch of calipers in the process of being made, and NEARLY all the Starlet kits are sold (reserved) yet again! Word of mouth and positive feedback is a great way to get business! 15" + 350bhp = ideal for 277x25 WMS kit...maybe even 295x26 WMS if you have got roomy wheels, but 277mm is more likely.

We do the T10 2-pot in a few piston sizes, the most common are 1.75" and 1.38". If we need to get Starlet-specific ones done it's possible depending on volume. The pads are a race-format for 2-pot calipers, similar to the front 4-pot T20 caliper and it's (larger) race-format pad.

Yup, thought I had! I'll do that now.

For a full-race car we can probably do a 2-pot rear kit pretty easily, using this caliper: But the problem is that most cars will need an MOT, and for an MOT you need a MECHANICAL handbrake. We will be looking into this in the future though - it's on the list!

Hi Thomas, he had the 277x25 one. All the prices are here: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28281 - As for calipers on their own, we can supply spares if you want to rebuild them? Not sure if I remembered to ask - could you double check which piston size your calipers have got?

Not on the shelf, we've got a batch being machined and are taking deposits against them due to demand - they are nearly all gone before arriving yet again! Drop me a PM if you want to reserve one, I'm working through my PM's at the moment.

In most cases you'll need to trim the "lip" off the outside of the heat shield to clear the larger disc, then also you may need to tap the odd spot on the "inner" part of the shield to releave it a bit - as you say it can get close to the disc! As long as the heat shield isnt rubbing (inc during cornering) then you're good to go from that point of view.

Sorry dude, had to go out! You're right about having to adjust the heat shield, a lot of people don't have them any more anyway as they rust away. To bleed the calipers you just do the inner nipple then the outer one - they should be at the top obviously. Fire away if you have any more trouble! M10 = 40Ftlb, M12 = 60FtLb, fittings = finger tight.

Where's rubbing exactly? Is the bore too small? (you might have a 54mm disc on a 55mm hub, possible...) On 54mm hubs it's a straight 54mm, on 55mm hubs it's 54mm where the wheel locates then steps up to 55mm leaving a slight "lip".

Shades of Schumacher.

He's got a little annoying in the last year or so I have to admit!

..very!

Can you send me as many photos as you can of the installed brakes (inboard and outboard) so I can see if there's anything obvious out of place?

Anodised aluminium calipers have a tendancy to creak, seems to be to do with the fact the surface of anodising is VERY hard. When I undo the bolts to split calipers they really "crack", then creak/squeek as I undo them! Google squeeking wilwood to see how often race calipers do this - I'm not pulling your leg! That said, yours seem very noisy, might be worth re-building them to swap the spacers left>right - make sure you double-check the bolts are not bottoming out (or make sure they go back in the same holes), and torque them to 30FtLb. Also I'm wondering if they are installed incorrec

Thanks Garci! Here's what Wardy90 had to say, quoted from a PM: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Keri, Recived the brakes on monday and fitted them the same day and without a hitch. They were even easier to bleed! Took them out on a test run to start bedding them in and ohh my god!! they are amazing, i cant beleive the force these things give! I cant wait till they are properly bedded in! I have a couple track days in the next coming month so i will keep you updated Cheers again Wardy P.S A few pics for you

Partly depends on demand!

I've been looking at this and I'm not sure the inside of the disc should need the 1.5mm taking off it! In fact my maths says it shouldn't. (I've got ST185 hubs, ST185 discs, and EP91 hubs etc here). Has anyone got a Starlet hub, STANDARD 280mm Astra disc and ST85 carrier (no pads) they can bolt up and photograph if the disc is centred in the carrier or not? I can probably supply pre-modified, 55.1bore (or 54.1mm to fit EP82 bore) 277mm Astra discs if people are interested. The locating rings will be permanantly fitted to the discs, not loose.

PM sent! PM also sent! You've got secondhand WMS brakes and need new pads from memory - PM sent! :-)

Coming close to the record for the nicest-wheels-over-WMS-brakes photo!