Keri-WMS

254mm is correct! We have a heavy-duty version of that disc (thicker casting), drop me a PM if you're interested ? :-)

Are they one-peice discs or alloy bells + rotors? Drop me a PM, I should be able to help (but after shipping the load of kits that are supposed to go out this week, need to get that sorted before looking at anything new).

Here you go - I had them on my Mk1 MR2 and they are in my avatar!

I've not had a chance to look into it yet - I'm trying to get people I need to get kits shipped to dealt with as the priority! I'll try to get a proper reply to you tonight though... :-)

I've got some in now.....although nearly all of them sold in advance! I'm working like mad to get them all shipped ("bit" of a rush to put if mildly), which wasn't helped by having to replace one of the machines in the workshop = general chaos.... Once I've got everyone sorted out (ie kits shipped) I'll sort out a home for the last few! Drop me a PM with the size you're interested in and I'll get back to you? Another batch will be along soon as well.

The top one looks like it's a smaller disc - what are the two diameters?

(I'll send some PMs tomorrow, been buried under a new machine in the workshop all day!) There are pads to fit WMS calipers available from (~takes deep breath~): EBC Ferodo Mintex Hawk Wilwood Carbone Lorriane (CL Brakes) Pagid Carbotech Performance Friction Endless Project Mu Gransport KFP Magnum SBS-Scandinavian Brake Systems ROESCH Carbon Ceramic pads Porterfield Repco Satisfied Cobalt Friction .....and probably more! Not exactly a limited range...!

Yup, but not "at any price"? EBC / Ferodo and similar pads are normally sub £100...Carbotech / Pagid / CL Brakes and the like range from £150-£300+! So while the £100+ types may well be "the best of the best of the best", it starts to be a false economy in terms of performance-per-£ because a hardware upgrade can be had for the cost of two pad changes. And performance per £ is normally what people are looking for.

Discs make less difference than pads, and pads make less difference than a complete upgrade like our 4 pot kits. Carbotechs are great, but so expensive (given they are just a consumable!) it makes more sense to put that money towards a big brake setup with less expensive pads. You can always add Carbotechs later / as well if you win the lottery! Fluid needn't be expensive, Ate Blue for instance is very good value / performance.

I would say the EBC Red is a good pad for hard driven non-turbos, but for turbos you're really looking at EBC Yellow or ideally Ferodo DS2500 as they are getting really good feedback from our 4-pot customers (better feedback than Yellows do).

Done! This is the 277x25 4P109 kit in a 15" Speedline with no wheel spacer....it's the largest kit we do that fits. For prices see the link in my sig below, just pick the link to suit your year of car!

I've finalised the 4P108 PDF!

I've finalised the 4P108 PDF!

Yup, sure! They are pre-release but I can let a few more sets out... :-)

This is a new 4-pot kit.... We do have a heavier duty disc for use with the OEM caliper though, same diameter as OEM but a thicker casting!

WMS NEWS! We've got a new kit available (4P108) as a low-volume option for people with small wheels..... It's a 260x25 disc, and it's a VERY tight fit. To get it so small it uses a thinner (steel, non-CNC) bracket. Also it's deliberatly designed with the caliper lugs so close to the strut lugs they "touch", this means that on most cars you'll need to get the rust scale off the outside of the lug and then remove any lumps / high spots with a file or grinder. This is not an issue, all you're doing is cleaning up the casting a bit where Toyota didn't bother! You'll also have to lose the heat

WMS NEWS! We've got a new kit available (4P108) as a low-volume option for people with small wheels..... It's a 260x25 disc, and it's a VERY tight fit. To get it so small it uses a thinner (steel, non-CNC) bracket. Also it's deliberatly designed with the caliper lugs so close to the strut lugs they "touch", this means that on most cars you'll need to get the rust scale off the outside of the lug and then remove any lumps / high spots with a file or grinder. This is not an issue, all you're doing is cleaning up the casting a bit where Toyota didn't bother! You'll also have to lose the heat

Replied - I've got quite a few PMs to get through tonight, and I owe a few people profiles which I'll try to get sent tomorrow!

That old rotor would be a good starting point! It's too hard to say regarding cost without the rotor to hand, and a plan, and the volume of people that want them! I might be able to run a group buy on them if I can sort some out...

I have to say I'm heard some gobsmacking things about HiSpec over the years! Have a google to see what I mean, we don't normally have to compete with them because of it. I've got a LOT of possible solutions to this rotor-sourcing issue, but I can't do anything without the parts to work with.

How much are Godspeed charging? I might be able to help but I'll need one of the rotor/bells to get the specs from.... :-)

They are available in black with white lettering, or white lettering on a black background! There's a batch due VERY soon, nearly all of them have been sold in advance thanks to word-of-mouth recommendation which is always nice - a few left though.....

I'm not sure about the Grids - they do fit in the 15" Rota Auto X and 15x7 Rota Slipstreams. I can send you a template to check your wheels if you like? The basic "kit" in each case is discs/calipers/brackets/bolts - normally people also need to add out brake lines and their choice of pads. The WMS calipers and Toyota calipers are different fittings, so you can't use Toyota-fit lines on a WMS kit. The ABS should work normally but you'll have better feel/feedback, lighter brakes (= better handling), better heat/fade resistance and of course the extra torque available for when yo

Would you break it? I could use one corner (break out the hacksaw!!!!) and you could serve on the adjustable rod?

Basically a car is an energy conversion system. It converts fuel into momentum (at a faster rate the more powerful your engine is), and nearly all that momentum on a short track is turned into heat when you brake. The faster the car the less time the brakes have to cool, the higher the speed when you start to brake and the longer you have to brake! So both resisting the heat and conducting the heat away as fast as possible become more and more important as power increases. Assuming you use that available power of course! So obviously the best solution is a larger disc, with calipers with