nastyrash 2003

the ports are cleaned and polished with the valve seat openend out and combustion chamber modded around the back side of exhaust valves to allow thm to flow better. other mods done 2 but thy are my little secrets. Glad you like paul should improve the intire rpm range, with as much as 15hp added top end,

cheers fella every little helps. thr iz alot of other checks to be done, but i would be here all day. i would recomend leaving this stage of a engine build to the pros boys. as it take many years experience to aquire this and lots of other knowlage about blue printing high power engine design. if any body wants my help or advice on engine builds just ask.

this iz somthing im defo interested in. as caming the little 1.3 n/a makes sence to get more out of top end.

thr are lots of reasons 2 use camber, another is banked corners on oval tracks. keep thm explanations coming. and wat about drifting???

yep fella I'm chris and my garage is in manchester but could com to you and fit cam belt if you wanted all for the very nice price of 75 quid. and i use continental belts. wat motor you got.

wer you from fella could com to you and fit.

lol, yep mate it had weilded its self to the pullys because the rubber had gone hard and your adjuster had siezed up to. and lets not get on to the bottom fan belt pully tight was not the word.

bo ho, lol if you have the tools anything can be fabricated and engineered. the only limit is your limitations.

you undo and re tighten because the head gasket is around 1.5mm thick which is very thick in this day and age, and its like compressing a plugh mans sandwich, wen i first did a head on this engine i re checked all head bolt torque settings and ther was no suprise that the end bolts was at 56NM and the centers went as low as 34NM!!!. this is a problem with the 90degree final setting on the auto data. always make sure thy are all at the same, also rechecking at every service or after tracking the car is a must. and i have found that som head gaskets do not fit to the deck dowls tight and can all

we can only try my mate.

lov to drive my mates vx220, it is so arse end happy and powering thw corners just feels amazing.

this is very true rear wheel drive is fun fun fun.

u lov moding fella, i can tell, just sorry could not get you in the garage as it is full of all my projects at the min. (engine swaps, builds, and converstions). but we just missed the rain, was glad of that. and cam belt fella before you rolling road it plz.

like the front tires, camber and toe-in can be used to help the rear tires perform to thier maximum potentential. A tire delivers its maximum cornering power when it has a slight amount of negative camber in reference to the ground . some of this is the result of the bending of the hubs , axle and control arms. also toe in at the rear axle is a stabilizing effect , and toe out can cause the car to over steer under acceleration so you want to make sure this never happens wen bendind the axle, hubs. because a solid rear axle can flex, it will often toe out under braking and toe-in under accel

lol, you know how to brighten up my day mate thats awsom. and how are you and your leg

yep this is very ture the n/a has a very differnt set up. and the onse i have worked on so far do not have knock control systems. which is a must in this day and age of high comprestion ratios and boost presure. only for the pros to have a go. requires a in depth understanding of electronics and how stuff works.

it has nothing to do with added power, for all you horse power chasers. and yep the standard system iz fine just wers, and adds quite a few errors to the system, oh and digital systems are alot more tuneable and responsize, for me its all about the addaptation of the after market ecus and moving away from the jap and into the more main stream systems. just think of it like this the higher the rpm, the shorter the time the system has 2 do its thing and at high rpm we talking about milli sec. digial for me wins hands down.

well its was not me mate so u can rule me out.

hehehehe, i agree if you do not know wat your doing leave well allown, its quite simple to test a coil pack, but disagree with the simpler the better as why do people up grade plugs and leads, the same applys to the ignition amp and coil. dissys being mechanical have seen thr day and these new coil on plug ignition systems can give alot better acceleration response, spark duration, kv rise time, dwell and finally bigger hotter spark. electronics has replaced machanical, this is the future lets embrace it.

i realy need to get me a starlet that has this fitted as it will have a toothed wheel for the rpm pick up and possibly a tdc sensor or cam position sensor. which means it is a totaly different ecu and will have much more digital internal components, even a faster processer. and remember till i can take 1 apart i am at the min only speculating, as bin said thr are so many veryations of ignition systems.

i lov u man, its time to get the mega squirt up and running me think nows thr is 2 heads on it.

in that case, yep you right i would expect thm to be differnet, but am not 100% because i have never had my hands on 1 of this type. am well interested thw.

the only time you normaly get different plugs in a diz less system iz wen its coil on plug, thr is no resistance which iz normally added by the plug leads. so bosch R, or NGK R plugs are normaly used the R standing for the built in resister in the plug helping the high frequencey signal at high rpm. hope that makes sence

Asad you the man and yep this has just got my attention big time.

wow just looked twice at the pic never seen a 4efe runnig a diz less system before normally thy have a internal coil in a distributor system, you learn somthing new every day, thanks for the pic wat year is car and wat model. cheers