nastyrash 2003

like the work mate, you really getting the hang of this. got some books for you 2 get and have a read. g.bell- proformance tunning naturl asperated engines, published by haynes. and cylinder heads by peter burgess speed pro series. can get thm both from demon tweeks. thn you got all the info at your finger tips.

sounds ace socks. lov it

was a good BBQ bro, was wasted, let the good times roll!!!

you right fella, god dam spam, hehehehe

me to in the rolla, for shur. just done the front exit exhaust 2 day looks amazing.

this starlet just gets better and better, u got good taste fella.

sorry for the late reply fella, i import thm from america in kit form (much cheaper), and yes build thm my self. i use the mega squirt 2, just as the EFI controler. the only down side to thm iz thy are batch firing. and use MSD ignition control mainly because it has mulity spark duration at lower rpms and iz capasitive discharge digital amp, with the c4 coil 65kv u know. you can use the singel dizzy off the turbo it has a rpm pick up on it, but are much easyer ways of puting after market pro ignition amps on the car.

no fella your throttle body does not have it, check for any inlet leaks on all vac pipes, the 1 to the fuel presure reg is normaly the fav.

sign me up !!, and i can also drink a meen can of beer if that will be of any use.

yep the stock engine has lots of very different parts to the turbo,= thermostate housing, inlet manifold, throttle body, dampend pully, external coil + king lead, oil filter sandwich plate, sump, nock sensor, flywheel & clutch are but a few, and as i have found the ECU on the turbo is quite a bit more advanced as the standard dizzy with internal coil only has a singl hall sensor. the turbo with external coil has both a rpm and cam position sensor + knock control. but thr are many bolt on electronic parts you can bye to add these systems to a standard 4efe.

you the man, just SEX!!!

do not follow mate, thats wat your after is max pos presure keeping the turbo spooled up, watching the engine valve timing and air valve duty cycle might help but only to stop any adverse back presures,but only with small turbos i would imagine. but other thn that its a simple system.

wet with wat fella if oil look at the inlet is that also wet with oil

i will put som pic up soon fella, and do not take from that pipe as the sucktion is just 2 much. take off the recert valve breather into the catch can and then back to wer the recert valve went into the rocker cover breather, on this engine best option.

anti lag is actually quite easy to fit all you need is a egr valve or secondary air injection valve, with a actuator that is vac operated, and the main and realy only problem with it is you require siramic turbin blades on the turbo as high temps will result, and kill (melt) the turbo blades. other thn that its not hard to do at all. also a straight throw exausts because it will be like a shot gun going off on over run. this is known in the racing world as "the 5 stroke engine". lol. and batch fireing ecu's are the easyest to adapt this system to. which the 4efte has, but alass it is not roa

a tad freaky, ho could do that kind of work. NOT ME.

glad you like lee, your car should in all intents nearing the 100ps mark. nice air filter, will help the engine at lower rpms. just move the air feed up a tad. and check out thm ignition systems out you will not be disapointed. the rear anti roll bar, also a good bie.

thr are many ways to get rid of the rpm limmiter, the most simple way i have found is a piggy back ignitions amp for as little as 150 quid fitted, but its not just the valve springs that you have 2 worry about wen you near 7000 rpm, and a veriable lenght inlet manifold would be amazing on this engine. the throttle body heater element is another thing to disconnect to allow a cooler air charge, (more dens). plus throttle bodys are good but you chase all power to the top end of the rpm, which to be quite honest is not realy for road use.

yep fella and you got a turbo throttle body, very big. the 2 mainfolds are very different and the 1 i fitted for lee iz the best standard 1 for the N/A that i know of. plus the exhaust mainfold is a 4-2-1 on the 89-93 corrola,

amazing bro, thr is no half a job with you, you wants it all and you want it NOW, lol.

the only way i can see this happening is if your throttle body is shited up and 1 of the vac lines r leaking air, because this valve does operate on idle because thats wen you get vac, but its job is to create vac for vac aplications. i have a corrola and i took the valve off completely and it made no difference to the idle i will put a pic up of the plate i put over the vac valve.

yep fella we just disconnented the inlet pipe off the throttle body and pluged up the only 2 holes that bypassed the throttle plate and the engine stalled and did not idle, and i am glad to say that niether of these holes went any wer near your gray (VAC) valve, so to concloud this experiment the idle control is under the throttle body.

thats right i just sim up the oil valve to get more presure. also a spun shell is more to do with incorrect bearing shell crush not oil feed problems. you did check shell crush wen putting engine together didnt you!!!! was it the same shell that spun the second time.

the idle control valve does not tick fella, the vac control valve and purge valve tick but not the idle control, wer is this valve sat on the mani as louds of people think the vac valve is the idle control wen its not.

wats the problem with the car running or not, you checked the fuel pump relay.