StuDoc 72

I thought when you said to the right of the inlet mani yhou meant up near the bulkhead lol. What turbo? and i assume your sending it away for a rebuild?

One of them is blanked and unused. 1 is for the wee sensor for the aircon tht runs a vac pipe off the inlet. N have you fitted your ignitor yet? Thats my guess haha.

I think you can get the slave cylinder on egay for about 20 or 30 quid brand new or maybe idrees does them ill find out and give that a bash. wwll ive just bought a toda flywheel so i wanna stick it on anyway. I didnt even feel the lip just checked it wasnt cracked or ridged. Ill try the slave and fly to start.

Lol electronics fail there john lol. I believe there are a few in mine but thats only because i unplugged them. Advantages of buyin a complete sleeper lol.

lol

The cut off line for safe power on standard internals is classed roughly around the 240bhp mark. Could be more could be less its based on the general health of the engine in question. I believe safe boost is anything upto 1.4 on TD04 depending on what your engine will take. You will need to either buy TD04 piping off someone or have your own made up. The TD04 is the turbo from a subaru so it is an OEM spec turbo therefore is designed for reliability.

Just rub down the surface on the head where the rocker cover and seal sits onto it to give it a nice smooth surface to sit on it will only take 5-10 mins to do. Nah it wont work because your rubbing off a bit of corrosion so you need emery or sand paper. Ano tell me about it worse doing it on the ground does my head in.

I suspect its not that mate as the pedal seems to be the right height its level with the others im sure im a mechanic so ive went through most of the general things. Ill have a go at checking this tonight though and see if it helps. It really is wierd its really like u cant feel a solid biting point. Thats wots making me think now that it might be the master cylinder. Aye mate replaced the bearing the old clutch felt like it was slipping a bit thats what led me down the road of the flywheel my theory was the flywheel was worn down causing the friction surface to be further away from the friction plate thus causing my high biting point and lack of definity but the more i think about it the less sure i am maybe just me over thinking things lol.

Aye i think its either the master cylinder or the flywheel tbh because if it was the slave cylinder then like u say would make getting gears hard and the biting point would be lower to the floor rather than higher. So ill just have to change the flywheel over and see what its like and go from there. Aye its bled right thru. Must be one of those 2 things its hard to explain its just that way normally u can distinctily feel the biting point on a car well you just cant on mine untill your moving lol.

Yeah well you may aswell try it because ull have to sand it down anyway for the new one so worth trying it now incase if not then at least its sanded down for when u go to fit it. Could have been worse mate u cudda fitted a clutch then came to the conclusion you need a flywheel too

Fresh fluid done mate. forgot to mention that. The bottom of the master cylinder had some amount of gunk in it i was shocked obv had never been changed. I dont think its the flexi that seems ok. Im defo caught between the flywheel master and slave cylinder. Can see me ending up changing the lot lol. Just though someone else might have experienced this on their starlet or another car being that its the clutch any car could have the same symptoms.

How much did that make them lol?

Aw is it sorry i didnt look at the comments just knew he was. Yeah shouldnt cost much to have one made its the most basic decat ive ever seen lol would take a welder haf an hour.

Lol FAIL well least you know those seals are done and you can have peace of mind from that and you've got the experience from it. Rocker cover seal is a peace of piss and theres a chance it might not even need replaced take off your rocker cover and clean up the surfaces and stick it back on might fix it for free.

Right I have a strange problem i thought my clutch was becoming weak and the biting point was vague along with being quite high so i changed my clutch, altho when removing the old clutch i notice it has loads of meat left on it. Anyway its changed. So the new one is in yet there is very little differance my next port of call is i have a new loghtweight toda flywheel to go on as i thought if its not the clutch that was worn maybe its the flywheel and that is causing a greater distance before engagement. Anyway i sold on my other clutch and it is now fitted to another glanza and i have felt it in that glanza and it feels perfect a nice distinct obvious biting point half way up the travel. So this has had me thinking could there be more to it. Has anyone experienced this before??? So I've seen the master and slave cylinders are fairly cheap and both can be bought for under 100 pounds. So i want to know if anybody knows which one of the 2 is more likely or will it possibly be my flywheel after all as ive yet to fit it. Anyway opinions would be appreciated as its just something daft thats annoying me. Cheers

All big audi Rs's have lambo engines in them im sure. All the 4.2's come from a lambo iirc. N the cruise hing it wis ma pal that said that hink he was just takin the piss and i jumped the gun lol.

PaulStarletSR is selling an N/A de-cat in the forsale section for £10 plus postage. Cant go wrong.

Yes i must say it does look pretty good. Should have eyelids welded to the bonnet so you can do away with those plastic ones. Looks pretty mean tho with the sprayed out bumper.

WTF how come where have you tried thats not right?

Well 1000 is well priced but you needto think of the work involved when turboing it. You will needto strip it out and replace the looms which is a massive job in its self then all the parts you would be aswell starting off with a V and paying the extra 500-1000 to save yourself a whole lot of hassle. You can get insured on any car people who say u wont get insured are talking mince its just down to how deep your pockets are but i got mine at 19/20 and mine was about 1300 so expect to pay anywhere between 1-2k on insurance.

Somebody do the right thing and help a brother!

Aww i see well your best off just going with a V then it will save you alot of money and hassle in the long run by the time you get round to turboing it will just cost an arm and a leg and also S's are much harder to find.

Bump Humour Me with what you have.

I know this has probably been asked a thousand times but is there anyone who has had work done and thought the standard to be good? Its for a friends R33 and it needs ALOT of work as in we have new wings, bumper, sideskirts it will also need to have the rea quatres cut out and new ones welded in so was hoping it to go somewhere capable. We know it will cost about £2k but basicly want somewhere that can take it from start to finish and do a great job. Timscale is not an issue really. Cheers Homies

Well yeah part of that im sure the S even with drums has adequate braking power fow what it is but even so surely if the brakes are that important you could just swap a V's brakes onto the S. Im just saying it a relatively inexpensive wear and tear part so i was wondering why he was focusing on it purely out of interest.