StuDoc 72

I have a black one but its in a poor state.

Whats the lowest you will take then if its not a grand. Between there and 1500? My offer still stands.

Yeah mate that wont do any harm. Glad you got it sorted. Shame we didnt know it was coming from higher up to begin with but no harm done in the work you done to it you live and learn lol.

I cant help you with the hoses altho i doubt it as rear uk 1s will be for drums and glanza obv are discs. As for bleeding just make sure the master cylinder is topped right up when your doing it and start with the furthest away being passengers rear then drivers rear then pass front n drivers front if you get me.

LMAO did you just do what i said then mate?

Nah they arent real used to be able to buy them from daft modding shops and stuff. Still good if you didnt have one. I found an N/a in a scrappy near me and took the one from that as the one in mine had been used. so this one was immaculate. So i got a 5 finger discount.

Cheers guys.

A vice to clamp the arm in when your removing them??? Always makes life easier do you not agree?

Why are you going plug and play when for the same money you can have EMB and a map. It will give you more power and better fuel consumption. Fuel pump is a possibility and changing it to a Walbro would be in your interests anyway. If you decide you still want plug and play then buy that 1st then start to change things like the fuel pump that way u will know when its sorted.

If you have a vice to do your bushs then youl be fine.

If your externally gated i dont think it would overboost although its a possibility what kind of external gate u got? Other things it could be is spark plugs or it could be to do with timing. Strange one really. Best thing you could do would be to get and EMB.

So if they are all the way up there then how can the be for the alternator? If they are that short? Surely the plugs for starter n alternator are at the other side of the inlet mani where they are?

Hammer Time

Looks fine to me. I'm no specialist in TD04 though.

I thought when you said to the right of the inlet mani yhou meant up near the bulkhead lol. What turbo? and i assume your sending it away for a rebuild?

One of them is blanked and unused. 1 is for the wee sensor for the aircon tht runs a vac pipe off the inlet. N have you fitted your ignitor yet? Thats my guess haha.

I think you can get the slave cylinder on egay for about 20 or 30 quid brand new or maybe idrees does them ill find out and give that a bash. wwll ive just bought a toda flywheel so i wanna stick it on anyway. I didnt even feel the lip just checked it wasnt cracked or ridged. Ill try the slave and fly to start.

Lol electronics fail there john lol. I believe there are a few in mine but thats only because i unplugged them. Advantages of buyin a complete sleeper lol.

lol

The cut off line for safe power on standard internals is classed roughly around the 240bhp mark. Could be more could be less its based on the general health of the engine in question. I believe safe boost is anything upto 1.4 on TD04 depending on what your engine will take. You will need to either buy TD04 piping off someone or have your own made up. The TD04 is the turbo from a subaru so it is an OEM spec turbo therefore is designed for reliability.

Just rub down the surface on the head where the rocker cover and seal sits onto it to give it a nice smooth surface to sit on it will only take 5-10 mins to do. Nah it wont work because your rubbing off a bit of corrosion so you need emery or sand paper. Ano tell me about it worse doing it on the ground does my head in.

I suspect its not that mate as the pedal seems to be the right height its level with the others im sure im a mechanic so ive went through most of the general things. Ill have a go at checking this tonight though and see if it helps. It really is wierd its really like u cant feel a solid biting point. Thats wots making me think now that it might be the master cylinder. Aye mate replaced the bearing the old clutch felt like it was slipping a bit thats what led me down the road of the flywheel my theory was the flywheel was worn down causing the friction surface to be further away from the frict

Aye i think its either the master cylinder or the flywheel tbh because if it was the slave cylinder then like u say would make getting gears hard and the biting point would be lower to the floor rather than higher. So ill just have to change the flywheel over and see what its like and go from there. Aye its bled right thru. Must be one of those 2 things its hard to explain its just that way normally u can distinctily feel the biting point on a car well you just cant on mine untill your moving lol.

Yeah well you may aswell try it because ull have to sand it down anyway for the new one so worth trying it now incase if not then at least its sanded down for when u go to fit it. Could have been worse mate u cudda fitted a clutch then came to the conclusion you need a flywheel too

Fresh fluid done mate. forgot to mention that. The bottom of the master cylinder had some amount of gunk in it i was shocked obv had never been changed. I dont think its the flexi that seems ok. Im defo caught between the flywheel master and slave cylinder. Can see me ending up changing the lot lol. Just though someone else might have experienced this on their starlet or another car being that its the clutch any car could have the same symptoms.