StuDoc 72

Tee it into the vac that comes off the front of the inlet mani which would operate the BOV.

Theres your problem right there then. 1: Locate the FCD 2: Bin the FCD 3: Turn boost down to 0.7 4: Buy ECU 5: Crank up the mufuckin boost lol.

If you are running a bar. What kind of fuelling mods do you have? Is there and FCD fitted I assume or do you have ECU?

Oil seal isnt a fail mate unless its pissing out n the car cant be driven. As above flexi brake pipe or exhaust? If it brake pipe jus get a flexi off someone who is breaking to keep it cheap. If not then just a motorfactors will prob be the same one on any starlet. Like above make sure leak isnt sump. I use 10w40 mobil super 2000 quality and cheap. Everyone has their own preferance.

HAHA if thats what it is I'll be in knots. Technically oil could get into it if it was in use. Bypassed though It would be quite incredible lol.

I cant make much sense of what your trying to explain mate take a pic of your bay and the turbo set up and then go from there. You can do as I said loop the actuator straight on to the turbo and you can remove the solenoid and all the piping for the hi/lo controller.

I wouldn't think its the turbo seal Trisk mate as it on the comp side. Is it smoking on or coming off boost? Sounds a bit strange though all the same. Try looping the turbo. There is 3 nozzles on the turbo. 1 on the comp side. 2 on the acutator. Link the 1 on the comp side to the obvious 1 on the actuator. The other on the actuator which is at an awkward angle leave open to the atmosphere. This will bypass the hi/lo boost soleniod and leave you constantly on hi boost. After that see if you have any smoke. If you can post a couple of pics of your bay and turbo I can get a better idea of your vac set up.

Im same mate jam splitter looks a bit too much need for speed imo. Oem lip, cupra or laguna if u ask me.

Wierd mate the clips are there to prevent them rattling but ive never actually experienced any that do rattle. Did you wind out the caliper till the disk was slightly sticky? Pads at the rear when the set up has the handbrake on the caliper should hold the pads in tighly enough to prevent them rattling also copius amounts of copper grease helps.

Question troops. Ma pal told me he had a baby bluish coloured Glanza up his arse over Inchinan could be from Renfrew/Greenock/Paisley way. Any of you's know whos it is?

Deckys has orange wheels mate. Plus me paul decky n dave all stay in the same place so would know right away. Tell him his numper plate is gay. His cars nice though apart from the forge stencil on the IC.

Have to agree there. Great cars to drive. Shite to own. Jus depends if you think the negative outweigh the positives.

Thers a V the same as mine down my way completely standard wheel trims and everything. Old couple boosting about. Bet they dont have a clue what they own lol.

£1200ish I pay on admiral multicar. Thats for me (3year NCB 10 points) My Mrs (5years NCB and 0 points) For the glanza and 2008 320d msport coupe. Thats pretty decent I reckon. Think the multicar is split down the middle its about £600 per car.

Like Trisk says. Gearbox. I had a 57 plate twingo gt turbo the gearbox went on it with 15k on the clock lol and renault had it for 3 months waiting on a box coming. Mind you I also got a lovely £2k cheque for my inconvenience but still. That said if your not concerned about reliability or build quality becuase both are non existant (interior will fall apart and gearbox / electrical issues will be rife) Apart from that they are epic cars. Very quick and superb handling. Has to be one of the pastel blue ones though!!

I think red cars are fucking awful lol I'd give any red starlet a wide berth.. The white 1 is tidy though.

Yeah theres 1 up here too.

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/66489-98-96spec-front-bumpers-anti-lift-kit-other-stuff/

I suspect there will be more than that.

What kind of starlet? Try the breakers yard on here 1st.

This man knows the score. I don't get this shit wrong lol.

Have you tried it with a pair of long nose pliers? The tool is only really needed if its tight or slightly seized if they are free they will wind back no bother.

For 2nd gear. Well you can change the synchro but its a bit of a false economy your cheaper just replacing the box.

No if its full size you wont need brackets but I wouldnt bother with a full size 1 they are too big and offer no pro's other than looking nice. At least if you get a half size 1 it uses up less space.

Just buy 3mm its better being a little too small and having to stretch than too big and it wont seal. Tends to be pretty stretchy rubber stuff anyway.