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Taggy

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Everything posted by Taggy

  1. just uploading some more pics of box and proof there is an LSD in there (its the same box i did the guide on to fit it)
  2. I can post it on a palette for about £60, but if its not too heavy i might just be able to wrap it and post it normally as really its not that big, also yes it is a potential bargain, but at the same time its priced cheap because why the hell wont the cup come out? Its a bit of a gamble on the buyer, but i sell it on the basis that if you buy it i can 100% confirm the diff is fully working and if you put a 5th gear back on the box, the box works too, all be it crunchy as hell on 2nd and 3rd. I have tried bars on it and all sorts to get it to pop out with no joy, i think the next step is to weld up a custom puller to fit the box so you can wind it up with pressure until it pops, but to do this i need to be able to weld which i can't!. In any case its a gamble if you can get it out hence the price, you know the story so if you also find you cant get the cup out its no refunds. Good luck to who ever wants it
  3. Item For Sale: Quaiffe limited slip differential (LSD) Item Condition & Description: LSD was working great when removed from car in gearbox I am selling this LSD with a gearbox, however its cheap for a reason The diff is fine inside the box, however I had taken the box off with the intention to change it as it was crunching in 2nd and 3rd (Worn Syncros). Problem is that I cant get one of the CV cups of the gearbox, one side has come out no problem, but for what ever reason the other cup is stuck fast. This means i cant split the box to remove the LSD! I have heard this happening to a few other peoples boxes when using a Quaiffe LSD, i can only imagine that somehow the circlip on the cup which holds it in, has become wedged on the spline, so its stopping it from popping out. I dont have the tools or time to be able to try and get it out and i think someone else with a bit of effort could get it out. I think the way forward would be to weld up a custom puller to the box and then wind it off with the puller, with any luck it should pop off. I paid nearly £700 for the diff so its a bargain if you can get it out!! It will be sold inside the gearbox, which will also be provided. I have however taken the 5th gear off the box to put on my other one which is going into my car. Price: £299 Pictures: Note its the Green CV cup facing the engine side which is stuck in. Picture of through the diff to show the LSD is actually in there, standard diff you cant see through it. This is the side that comes out no problem The offending side which wont budge! Payment & Shipping Details: Collection, or shipped on pallet. Can arrange your own courier or i could potentially just wrap it up if the weight limit is ok with the courier.
  4. smoke coming out of the breather is going to be ringlands, take a look at our pistons and check the skirts (bit between the two rings) you will probably find its got a crack and if you tap it it will break off. Check all 4
  5. dont buy one which you cant see running is my advice, there are quite a few duds lurking out there which have been pulled out of cars already, so buyer beware. Best bet is to see it running in the car first before its taken out, do a compression test on all 4 cylinders. You want a minimum of 150psi with anything up to about 185psi on a mint engine, do this test when the engine is warm not cold. Check for mayo under the oil cap to ensure head gasket hasn't gone, look for oil leaks, particularly around the crank seals, one side of the flywheel where the gearbox attaches and the other side by the pulley. If you can, buy one which is totally stock which has been using the original CT9 turbo, no mods will usually mean it stands a better chance of not being fubbbard When its running, you should get no blue smoke on boost or off it and particularly off throttle for about 10 seconds, then back on it again. Think thats it Good luck
  6. dam beat me to it lol
  7. i know they are not interchangeable from when i did mine, so if memory serves me right i believe the pickup is longer on the stock 5e, so one would assume the sump is deeper. You can get around this problem though by shimming the oil pressure relief valve, i put a thin washer behind mine to increase the oil pressure. If you had the tools though i would say its worth tapping the original sump for the oil return and use the pickup designed for the block, makes more sense surely!
  8. its because the engine is tiny in a starlet, 1.3, the RS is a 2.5 litre turbo which is more or less twice the size. This means hell of a lot more fuel/air so you are much more likely to get unburnt fuel etc in the exhaust which is ignited, causing the overrun popping.
  9. Taggy

    Engine loom

    nope its all one piece, some bits do come off with plugs but nothing that will help you in the engine bay. You have to unplug it all from the car.
  10. its like someone is chopping my balls off selling it!!
  11. Year: 1985 Model: EP70 Turbo Boxy conversion, Fully forged 5EFTE, 285hp TD04, 1.3bar. Tax: Yes MOT: Yes Mileage: 46000 Description: Engine has now been sold, selling everything else Anything you want from it let me know Includes The 1985 Ep70 shell Complete original stock interior Complete ep82 turbo engine loom conversion, (still uses original ep70 key to start) Race tank and fuel pump in boot plumbed into engine bay ready to go D2 Coilovers WMC Quad pot calipers Huge WMC discs EBC Yellow Stuff Pads Earls Braided lines. 15" Toyota Corolla Steel wheels Cusco rear strut-brace Cusco lower arm bar Full 2.5" stainless steel custom exhaust front to back Stainless steel stealth exhaust Full custom hand made intercooler setup Cusco front mount stealth intercooler Fully forged 5EFTE motor, includes ACL bearings, PEC rods, Wossner Pistons, (All receipts included, including machine shop work) Engine Racetech manifold, decat, screamer setup Mitsubishi TD04L Turbo External wastegate Forge Motorsport Intercooler Full custom intercooler system Sard RRFPR Gizzmo IBC-R Boost Controller Emanage Blue Race-Tech Manifold Race-Tech Decat Screamer pipe Full Custom 2.5inch system, front to back with centre flexi and a stealth box at the back Walboro 255 Pump Meshed turbo intake NGK custom made Blue 8.5mm Leads NGK Iridium Plugs (Heat Range 7) Half size Civic Alloy Radiator Suspension and Braking D2 Coilovers WMC Quad pot calipers Huge discs EBC Yellow Stuff Pads Earls Braided lines. Cusco rear strut-brace Cusco lower arm bar Styling and Other Complete stock interior AEM Wideband Prosport oil pressure, oil temp, boost 15" Toyota Corolla Steel wheels Duck spoiler same as browners. Pictures: Contact Details: PM me
  12. Great news, wish i could have been there
  13. Yeah i might just sell it working see how it goes
  14. hey tommy, i have got a 5e that is up for sale, fully forged.
  15. I cant seem to make my mind up on either selling the boxy as a whole car, just because its plain easier. Or if i should break it. I am not sure how much someone would pay for it either, i was thinking in the region of about £3800 as a realistic figure, i doubt anyone would go over 4k in this market for a startlet, but if i break it i could probably make another 2k on top of that. Arggh its such a pain, what are you thoughts on its value, its a bit awkward to judge it as its custom as a bitch! Taggy
  16. Yeah i had a long chat with the mrs about it last night and we both decided although i have spent many many hours on it and i love it to bits, i need to sort out my finances and in fairness i want to do a kp60 next, so its a good excuse
  17. Year: 1985 Mileage: 46000 Description: Selling the converted shell if anyone is interested, I have sold the coil overs, so its not a rolling chassis any more, but includes the following The 1985 Ep70 shell Complete original stock interior Complete ep82 turbo engine loom conversion, (still uses original ep70 key to start) *Note* Needs a fuel tank, 15" Toyota Corolla Steel wheels Full 2.5" stainless steel custom exhaust front to back Stainless steel stealth exhaust Rear duck spoler Driveshafts Hubs GT lower arms As i have sold the parts from the car, to finish it off to get it running again you would need A set of GT calipers, which you can probably pick up for about £30. Fuel tank Coilovers and obviously an engine, loom is all there to hook up to a 4efte as well as the ECU inside. http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/45942-taggys-ep70-japfest-sleeper-forged-hybrid-5e-fte/ Price: £350 Pictures: Contact Details: PM me
  18. amazing good work everyone!
  19. Count me in dude!
  20. Welcome to the club Amanda, i have got a ep70 too Love a bt of 80's retro you cant beat it!
  21. first time i have heard of it but sounds interesting http://www.aemelectronics.com/water-methanol-injection-kits-23/ Wouldnt bother though unless you were going insane power though!
  22. ah no probs, was just going to say to use the 4e marks on the pulley if you were using 5e.
  23. are lovely, cheers H_D
  24. i still need to get the bloody diff out of the box, doing my dam nut in
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