Taggy

Hi Andy Sounds like your head gasket has failed, the compression from your engine is leaking into your coolant system and forcing the water out Its a head off job I am afraid, get your self a new Toyota Head gasket and bolts, dont forget to skim your head too at a machine shop. Sorry its not the news your probably after

bump

I originally used an Athena 1.4mm gasket but I found that it wasnt sealing properly, I had a very light film of oil on the corner of the block where the tab is. Apparently a common problem with them, so i decided to bin it when i had the head off next and swapped it for a Toyota OEM.

Sounds like the map sensor, it will run really lumpy without it plugged in properly. Its mounted in the middle top of the rear firewall behind engine ., a small black thing. It will have a pipe coming off it which needs to be connected to a vacume pipe on the inlet manifold. Double check the plug is in and there are no broken wires, (there are 3 wires). Give that a try

If you buy the engine from me i will discount the parts if you buy it together

sooner someone buys it the sooner i can sell the rest of the car

yeah its a fucker but I am having to pull money from places i didn't realize existed lol to put towards the house! Trying not to sell my other house if i can, so some toys gotta go!

Item For Sale: Forged 5E-FTE Item Condition & Description: 1.5Litre Turbo charged, 5E-FTE, includes all receipts for parts and machine shop work. Engine is in sound working order and currently being driven around in my sleeper EP70. Can be seen running before purchase and really does pull like a train! Currently running 275hp at 1.3 bar on emanage blue, mapped by tuning developments. Selling up out of the blue as a house I want to buy with the mrs has come up, so need every penny i can get my hands on! Engine is ready to drop straight into any starlet. I am going to be breaking the whol

Yeah you can blank up the ICV, i don't even use it on mine

Oil cooler, you read my mind, I'm definitely having issues with cooling at the moment, gutted I sold mine now.

No point doing it external, someone will just nick it! Just whack it behind the grille and job done.

First thing is to test that the wiring is not defective from the sensor the ECU. The wire is black and on the large plug, its about the 4th one in. Get a multimeter and put one end in the knock sensor plug and then the other in the pin on the ECU plug, this will let you know if the wiring is broken or not. If thats ok then proceed to change the knock sensor. Thats how i fixed mine, i ended up having to put new wire in (microphone cable from maplins) cost a couple of quid, you just want the shielded stuff

The ECU couldnt detect the knock sensor on the car, so by default it pulls the timing and dumps more fuel in, its a safety feature if you car is detonating.

Oh a plus note i have fixed the knock sensor fault this evening thank holy fuck for that and its also sorted out the over fueling problem too Car is a weapon again!

ok will do!

I have run in a new section of cable (insulated) and also tested another knock sensor and i still get the error. Once the car gets to about 3-4000rpm the eml light comes on irespective if the knock sensor is plugged in or not. Gonna get the multimeter out again tonight and test the continuity again to the plug, failing that all i have left to change is the ECU.

my Quaife LSD would spin the wheels opposite directions, the difference between a standard gearbox and a OEM LSD box are extremely obvious, for one the drive shafts are two distinct different sizes and also one side of the gearbox on an oem lsd has an additional section sticking out, hence the shorter driveshaft. Its impossible to confuse the two!

having a right old time trying to fix a code 52 fault, which is supposed to be knock sensor failure or open circuit. Has anyone had this fault code and what did their car run like? The car runs ok, but it seems to be massively over fueling, put your foot down ans it fuels straight to 10 on the AFR and goes off the scale.The car is also mis firing and underpowered on full chat. Is this normal when it pull a error code 52 on the eml? i am figuring the ecu is fucking up my map! Doing my head in as i have change knock sensor and its still doing it, argh

Ha ha yeah in fairness port talbot town centre is not the most inviting is it , lol hahah magician

oooo couldn't resist taking it to work this morning Sun does make all the difference

lol someone loves a fag

I have got a spare knock sensor you can have for £30, i bought another one and it turns out there is nothing wrong with it to start with so I am back to the drawing board with my current fault, must be the wiring or ECU.

Only if they contest it within 30 days and that's not saying that your car setup isnt causing a problem with this P&P ECU. Got nothing to lose though have you, maybe put a disclaimer saying you had problems with it not fueling correctly to cover your self with no returns. Otherwise its £500 down the pan. Also i do see your point, but at the end of the day its a 2nd hand sale and you have left it way to long to get any kind of refund, 4 months? not even paypal would give your money back after 30 days...

maybe someone else can have more luck with it, i would just flog it on ebay and move on.

does it misfire when you rev it in neutral or only when driving, the TPS can cause all kinds of erratic rev behaviour which sounds like its misfiring if its knackered,