_shaun_
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Everything posted by _shaun_
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*whistles* alot to say it nicely prob isnt it just looks pretty close if your still worried bout it pop the instrument cluster out and see if the abs bulb as been solderd to the engine management light if it is then drop me a pm and ill give u the bad news lol
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this looks slightly like my mates he swaped for a civic please tell me u didnt get it from dunoon and it had a scotland flag intercooler
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not to sure lol will attempt to get ahold of mate but hes on his way to silverstone so not sure when he will get back to me lol
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something came up today so i mate offerd to do the bearing for me. he said the bearing went in with almost no effort at all he carried on and put it all back on but am still getting some wheel play. does this sound like a new disk? ( there only 3months old) or is it another prob? cheers shaun
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doesnt matter how many times u watch this still gotta be dam impressed lol
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if u scroll down in that thread aswell enzos posted there even cheaper again
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just spoted theres no top mounts in those pics either so ud have to use stock
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ive herd of them not seen any reviews tho this is what u want mate http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....mp;#entry582163 best coils for the starlet imo
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once its wired in like that just hold the button in on it while u put on ign and it will save u dont want it to beep had 4 beeping at me every morn when i jumped in the car at 6am it woke me up to say the least lol
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my race-tech 1 isnt braced. if its a good quality manifold dont think its a must still be safer to do
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ive had ma wms brakes fitted for prob 3-4months now cant fault them saved me a few times need to see some vids of this monster
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this best vacuum diagram ive seen with part numbers still bit of a pain to follow lol
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ahh not sure might not be the same then
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didnt rly answer u question there lol bascily no the orange has to go to a positive that is only on with ignition and the red has to go to a constant positive from the battery
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the red has to go to a constant positive if not it wont story any data and u get a high pitched beep everytime u turn it on
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sounds to easy ill assume these bolts are gonna be tight as fuck to get off then
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as i was driving to day my rear wheel bearing shit its self and is now totaly shafted. new 1 should be here tomorow lunch time how hard are these to change? any specail tools needed
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splicers dont always make a good connection worth re checking them
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nah your alright then mate at 80 car should be nice and cool anyway only time things get toasty is behind the sunday drivers or sitting at lights
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it will slowly go back up if your still driving stoped at some traffic lights it would rise pretty quik as theres no flow of fast cold air getting to the rad if your going by the oem heat gauge its shit anyway barely moves time it says your engines overheating your already screwed lol
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will these be ok , im slightly concerned
_shaun_ replied to nazzurro19's topic in Intake, Turbo & Exhaust
dont think many things bar a manifold would be hot enought to burn the silicone however my rad pipe rubbed up agaist my screamer a lil and it slowly wore a lil grove in it so over a couple months sure it would burst the pipe -
if u had a leak temp would go up lol if its just going down a lil its cause your going faster more cold air on the rad means colder tempts
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thanks had a fair few pms bout places tho and booked in for wed thanks to every1 that tryed to sort something out for me tho
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looks great in the sun needs a spoiler tho glanzas just look off with out lol. how u liking the seats mucch better that stock lol
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very nice figure any plans for aftermarket inlet the hollow billet cams sound intresting