TrisK

that blue one, the front end reminds me of a r34 skyline the rear end an impreza

yeah id like to see some pics

firstly, id get written proof that he owes you the money and how much. get a letter that says i owe this man, this much for working from this date to this date. I will pay him this by this date. you need some written admission that he owes you it, phone calls wont be enough.

i just need to find a gap tool somewhere then! thanks for the suggestion mate! ive already ordered some magnecor leads, but i just have toyota standards on atm, so some blue ones will make the bay look nicer too!

i dont think i want to see the pcitures of this, hope its fixable and were not going to see another awesome starlet broken

ive got a funny misfire under high boost, so im looking to replace the leads + sparks where is a good place to get them, and what brands are good? and what sort of prices are you looking at for something like that? Thanks

i read somewhere, that on the standard mani there is holes between all the runners, and on the JAM on the 3/4 runners are joined with just a dip between them, is this correct?

no, JAM manfold retains the heat shield :/ or so i was lead to belive

I am going to see a bloke about buying a JAM manifold from him? How can you identify that it is really a JAM one, whilst it is still on the car? Any stamps/marks on it? Thanks

i have, my actuator is set down to 0.8, but it just creeps. at the moment, i am just driving her nice and gently off boost. even then, if i have a PNP ecu, how will i know that is going to fuel better?

do you have an adjustable actuator? look down infront of the manifold heat sheilding, is the bar that goes accross to the turbo threaded? (i just cant work out why it would be boost creeping with a seeminly standard engine, and im guessing it must be an adjustable actuator, or how would the garage have adjusted it?)

well the plan is to: manifold and some sort of management. (blitz/jam ecu) i have a HDI fmic on its way from Steve-GT. With regards to the fueling, does everyone think I should put it back to how it was (test 1 on the dyno graph above), and although my mpg will probably be shocking, atleast it will tide me over til i can get an ECU. Thanks

re what glanza_cl said, why would it go silly lean? its a sard rrpr, so surely it should just up the fuel as i go up the revs? or is it not that simple

im currently talking to zisco to get a mani. i really dont know what to do about that fuelling. basically the guy at the rr said that he didnt think they could do much. he seemed to say that only a mapable ecu would be anywhere near sorting it. i could put the rrfpr back to how it was before i went (2.8 bar on idle), then im fueling better. argh, this stupid car.

Ok, so what i want is a guage that tells me my AFR at that point in time. What is required? I have heard good things about AEM digi guages. Will it require me drilling a hole in my exhaust? or does it tap into the ECU or what? Thanks

ok heres the graphs blue is the first run green is after what he did what he could with my rrfpr. but i really need a map, cause that fueling it well off. also at 6k, i got a wierd misfire and a big bang. is anything particular happening at 6k? vvt or cams or anything? if not ill check the usual misfire things, leads, cap etc. although it seems wierd :/

ok, the results are in 181BHP 158WHP will get the graph up later today, and i have some videos too

yeah, i get this say once a week or so.

im just saying, if you are pushing your car that hard expect things to go wrong but otherwise

another suggestion for stopping your head from lifting is not driving at an average speed of 140mph. also, which track is it that has a straight with an average speed of 140?!

havent we already resolved this here: http://www.ukstarletclub.com/forums/index....c=40462&hl=

ok what you need to do to get the hi-beam indicator working: in order to know if the car is on hibeam it uses resistance in the wiring to tell the car. you can do it with resistors etc, but you can also put a bulb in the wiring and that will work, just put a spare h4 bulb in the holder. you could possibly do it with a blown bulb/a stripped bulb (smash all the glass etc off, so it is just the metal base. if that doesnt work, then you can do it with a resisor. i can post a digram

also, when they work (after that wire is changed). they will go on hi/low, but i suspect the light on the dash wont work. let me know here, and i will post the fix for you, its a simple fix that costs a couple of quid from a electrical shop

that one with the red on the end, that you have bolted to the strut tower, is meant to go to the positive on the battery?

behind a log in wall buddy