AdamB

x2 could be a sticky throttle cable, try removing both ends and putting a little bit of grease on the ends and working the cable in and out. Does it do this when the car is stationary on idle only? Try unplugging the TPS and see if it makes a difference, if not it could be the TPS faulty

It will also depend on the location of the MAF. Bit of a pain in the ass them things lol. Let us know how you get on mate.

Nah its programmed into the memory of the ecu. Have you checked the spark plugs? Are they wet? My guess is its overfueling if it won't fire. Have you got the software? I believe there is a 4EFTE base map you can revert back to if you need to.

Whats the car trying to do? Any fault codes? What setup was the previous car mapped on compared to your setup?

Don't lower the car much then I'm sure most people have their arches rolled nowadays anyway so shouldn't be a problem. I've seen a glanza with a 225 tyre on

Just read the whole thread dude, its come a long way and is looking awesome Shame about all the mishaps but glad you got over them! Change to a 205 profile tyre mate, it will disperse heat better than a 195

The engine doesn't have enough volume to be able to flow two turbo's.

Polished mate. Autosol/metal cutting compound + dremel + elbow grease

Thats correct, little ignition timing causes an increase in EGT's. Have a look at this thread that a guy over on TGTT created. He races his glanza in a sprint class and was seeing over 950 degrees C. He posted up his ignition timing at rpm load points, and you can see that there was a fair amount of ignition timing in the middle of the map, around 28 degrees if I remember rightly, and as the boost perssure increased (like in Taggy's case doing 130mph and full boost I assume) the ignition timing was backed off being he thought he was hearing knock, this went right down to 8 degrees which was

The base static ignition timing is 10 BTDC. That should have been checked on the dyno before any tuning commences. It's the first thing a tuner should check before even touching any other component. I would advise on an EGT and AFR gauge, the only problem being is that it's okay to display such parameters, but unless your constantly looking at them, you may miss something. This is where a standalone unit becomes very handy in having to use such inputs which could save the engine from disaster.

An adjustable FPR is always a good component to have as it allows the tuner to maximise the injector flow rate without having to upgrade to a larger injector size. Keep it mate

A wideband is usually located way after the manifold/downpipe anyway, so you won't have a problem

As title, looking for EP82 clear front indicators

Mmm it does, there was a guy who did a test on it using a digital thermometer in different engine bay locations, makes for a good read I'll see if I can find it. Here mate http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3117876 It makes a different, but depends really on your setup.

You will get slight creep in cold weather, regardless of external gate or not bud.

You dont want to heat wrap it, you want reflective tape! Heat wrap is designed to contain heat within. Where as relfective tape will push heat away from the component which is ideal for cars with high under bonnet temps where this can affect the intake air charge temps.

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Could you explain please Ricky? A guy who races over on TGTT had near enough the same problem, lucky enough though he was running an EGT gauge and was netting near on 1000 deg C at 1.2bar boost pressure, with only 8 degress igntion advance, he then re-wrote that map using det cans and found out that it was the low ignition advance which was giving him such high EGT's.

I believe they were Ross pistons mate. I got a complete set of 4 x 74.5mm wiseco pistons here pal if you get completely stuck, although I'm sure you don't wanna have to buy a set of 4.

I got a pair of fronts here mate if thats any use to you? I'll grab some pics for you later if you interested? Not looking for stupid money, like £40 + delivery?

Moving away from the ct9 is a whole new world lol. I hated the ct9 tbh, it was always in and out of boost on a cruise and just didn't have the torque to pull you up a slight hill.

Done a bit more work over the last few days or so. Removed all the stickers from the windows, except the Dave B one as I know you can't get them anymore Not really in the place I would like it though so I may still end up removing it yet, we'll see. About an hour later and a few fingers nails after she ended up like this I also went and picked up my new headlight bracket from Toyota New Vs Old Started sanding down the inside of the car as well, trying to remove all the paint runs and splodge marks, trying to get a nice smooth surface before I start painting. This is

Ay mate I agree, anything can be smelted if it gets the right temperature with the correct amount of energy. I personally wouldn't say its ignition advance related, unless there was literally no timing in the map what so ever, but since TD have done many of these engines now I'm sure it wouldn't be that. Before removing the fuel pump, bridge two ports (can't remember which) and this will run the fuel pump, remove the banjo fitting to the fuel rail and grab a measuring jug/bucket. Measure the fuel flow for 1 minute and see what flow rate you get. I have known quite a few walbro p

Tegiwa do the rocker nuts, not sure if they do purple though mate

I'd say if your building a racer go for a 4E, if your building something for use the street go 5E. The extra displacement and torque makes the drive much better and you don't have to rag it to get the car moving. Spuddy's 5E motor rev's to 9000rpm on a regular basis, theres nothing wrong with rev'ing a 5E, it's all down to if you have the right mods to go with it. If you can try find someone whos running a 5E and ask for a spin in it. It's something that does take some consideration. Check out Taggy's guide on here somewhere, that lists everything you'll need