AdamB

If you didn't disconnect the battery there could be a chance you accidently shorted the wiring out. Check the fuel pump relay mate

Pimping

A T4 flange is not that same as a TD04 flange, infact its about twice the size lol.

m6 correct.

You shouldn't get creep with a lower gain, it should only creep if the gain is set too high. When its too low it will just take a little longer for the wastegate to open, meaning a tad more lag.

Been waiting for some good high quality pics mate

Manufacturer's sell components in a "matched" set so that they have the same mass and have the same diameter journals ( +- quality percentage). Unfortunatly if they are not prepared to sell you 1x rod, the only option is to get another matched set.

Thats all fine and dandy but theres no doubt excess material there to suit the stock valve guides. Due to the material being different to OEM valves they will expand and contract at different rates. Ideally to get the most out of them the stem could be cut back and thinned out to reduce mass and a bronze valve guide made to suit.

Seems to have a mind of its own! I'd probs drop the gain down a couple of points mate and see how it goes.

Don't believe you run a grille with the Varis bumper.

My new screensaver buddy

What turbo is this one mate? I wouldn't say the solenoid is fucked if your able to control it to some extent. Probably just needs fine tuning, remember the colder weather will have an effect as well.

Ay mate I know how they work, but even at like 5 boost pressure and 0 gain it would overboost past 1.2 bar lol. Chucked it in the bin in the end, a new solenoid was worth about as much as a whole new EBC.

The td04 on a 5e will spool similar to a ct9 mate, but it will run out of efficiency quicker.

If you run that adaptor, you plumb in the stock pressure sensor, then plumb in your gauge as well into the other port.. Then just route the wiring for your gauge wherever you like.

For sale: OEM Toyota Rear Shocks and springs setup including top mounts Item Condition: Used but good Price and price conditions: £40 incl delivery and paypal fees Extra Info: These came with a shell I brought but no longer needed as I have coilovers, they are in good condition with the rubber bushes at the bottom mounting showing no signs of wear. The top mounts look to be in good condition with no splits or tears in the rubber. The compression and rebound is good, with no leaks showing either. Pictures: Contact Details: Pm on here Location: Oxford Delivery & Conditions o

I thought some of it was quite pricey, especially the braided brake lines, can be had from camskill for £45 I think I see them at.

Check the thermostat mate, common problem on these motors. Yeah sometimes the matrix can get blocked up with shit.

99% of people am sure would use a 74.5mm piston because it gives room for error if anything ever happens, more so to a fairly rare 5E engine. It's only those that are really looking for that extra spool up of a large turbo that would opt for a 75mm piston.

I'm 99% sure the springs are the same mate, or can be interchangeable. Not a fan of the Blitz DSBC units, I had a solenoid fuck up on me and wouldn't control boost at all, kept overboosting.

I wouldn't run the stock 74mm piston because this doesn't allow much material to be removed from the cylinder during honing and won't give a good tight seal. 75mm pistons I personally wouldn't opt to run because if anything happens the the cylinder you can re-bore. A larger piston increases the compression ratio and increases the engine capacity slightly, meaning slightly more torque and better spool up of a larger turbo because engine capacity has increased, but it won't be anything noticeable so don't get too hung up on it.

Does the blower work but it just blows cold? Try removing the water pipes on the firewall that go into the heater matrix and stick a hose pipe in there and flush it out. Does the engine get upto temp as usual?

As Grant posted. You won't be able to use the stock wiring though as its not a signal wire, its purely for the dash light only and has no reference to the ecu or any other electrical component.

Yeah man, I mean if I did it now I would probs fail like, but if I actually wanted to pass it then would research it and stuff. I passed both my tests first time. Mrs has just said to me that her mate failed her theory 9 times. As if its not expensive enough to drive as it is!

12 times? lol jeez no offence I hope he never gets on the road. I think there should be a set limit as to how many times you can take it. If you can't do it like after 3 then you shouldn't be on the road at all.