AdamB

They are an absolute ball to install. They completely change the whole valvetrain setup having to machine the spring base and getting the correct shims (underbucket or have the valve tips turned) If your looking to install a set of cams, either A, go for the ball ache way with cruise or B, go for a full head setup, valves, retainers, springs etc.

Ah I thought you was doing a turbo build? If just doing N/A build use the 5e ecu mate, although you will have to do some extra wiring for the coil packs unless you can get hold of a wiring loom to suit.

Thats exactly what I thought, my athena is still in the wrapper so could only see one side

Nice one mate! So were they able to trace the batch just from the serial number etched on the other rods?

Its there because the TB has a wax stat inside mate.

Yeah the 4e head will need swapping onto the 5e mate. Use the 4e ecu and wiring.

A set of cruise 265 cams would give you a nice little lift, but not really needed till about 350+bhp. Can get them from RHDjapan.

Just checked my athena and its the same mate Doesn't look properly cut out for the oil way upto the cylinder head.

Depends on the ECU mate. Loads of people have mapped Emanages, but its when you start getting into standalones you need to look around.

TF035 as well which I believe is what Taggy was running. Spool faster and make near enough the same power.

If you meaning gapping then yes. When building the engine you'll need to measure the piston oil clearence, which is the bore size - piston size. And the ring gaps will also need to be set according what the engine is going to be used for, ie high boost application, low boost, nitrous etc. Most manufacturer's offer some sort of equation to work out the correct ring gap depending on the size of the bore. Taggy was trying to find a piston which would run the same oil clearence spec as the Wossner without having to re-bore the cylinders as other manufacturers run a larger oil clearence.

I believe it is, but only with some cores. Check here for a load of info http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?20735-FMIC-comparisons-King-thread&highlight=fmic+king

Spoke to Keith at Zisco and he said they are not needed unless pushing over 450bhp, thats when the stock valves become a restriction, your GT28 Matt is too small

How many miles had it done? Some engines are probably overdue a bearing shell change.

The 2 gold/brass pipes are vacuum, the other 2 are water. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?67023-Throttle-Body-Pipes-* It's been a while since I've seen the hoses, so can't comment if they are correct.

I'm sure out of all the piston manufacturer's Wossner run the tightest oil clearence, even CP Carillo's are 0.0035 a long with Wiseco and Ross I believe are also the same. JE is also another possibility but I'm unsure of their specs as it depends on the material composition.

1 bar every 1000rpm is what is suggested. Although 1.5 bar + on idle is a good indication of a healthy setup.

Some of them were epic

Think I get where your going, they are PEC designed and manufactured by SuperTech? Be interesting to see these in action, for the price you can't complain. Still think they would have been better with some bronze valve guides though.

lol shes been banned again already.

Also these are not manufactured at all by PEC, these are made by a company called SuperTech and PEC just being a dealer. Quick google reviews seem that they are very good, but the big boys like Supra's and Skylines would still choose Ferrea. http://www.supertechperformance.com/

Looks dry Someone with firefox download it before it gets taken down lol.

Well finally managed to get round to fitting the lights and the grille. There not held in properly at the moment as I'll be taking them back off and getting it all painted when I come to spray the engine bay back to white again. And then decided to fit the bumper as well as it saves me keep getting it in and out of the car when I'm working in it. Just waiting for Lew to get rid of his indicators now, that will be the front complete until I decide to put a lip on it Also near enough finished sanding down the rear now, just got to do behind the offside rear light section and the offside rear seat then she's done and I can tackle the front. I lifted up the carpet and thankfully from what I could seat no monkey has been let loose under the front, so will just clean it up and spray it. Whilst I sort out painting the front I'm gonna take the dash in for flocking

Congrats to you both mate

Good luck in sorting it mate. I would have thought they would have kept their own specs as per the serial number etched on the side of the rods, so hopefully they can identify something for you. Be a pain in the ass if you can't get one, and trying to find one pauter rod is probably quite tricky as most engines will either use scat or pec