AdamB

Its just bullshit mate, when it happend to me the officer said "you got lucky this time because I don't have the paperwork on me". Don't go thinking you need to sell the car bud.

You'll need to setup the TPS then mate

Dont worry mate, its just a scare tactic. I got a section 59 for wheelspinning in the wet before. You need like 3 or 4 against the car before they actually do anything. Think they only last a year as well.

How much oil is coming out the breather? Its an indication of ring/ringland failure. Try doing a diagnostic check to see what the fault code was mate

Try contacting Tim@TB Developments. He's got a JAM manifold on his Glanza, one of his contacts managed to get hold of it for him. A little while ago he was on about selling his turbo kit, Blitz K1, JAM Manifold, Blitz Decat, JAM intercooler.

You don't connect it to the ecu, you disconnect it from the ecu and connect a light/buzzer to it. The Piezo simply creates a voltage when it detecs a vibration, this voltage can be used to power something such as a bulb.

A Piezo can be used to detect and play tones. If you wanted to get a value of knock, like the power fc, then you will need an ADC Analogue to digital converter. You can create your own knock detection unit fairly easily, I done it at uni using a simple Arduino board which is just a microprocessor, programmed to give a value like the PFC. http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/KnockSensor

Most, infact nearly all new sensors would use a filter to filter out any frequencies which aren't knock, only downside to this would be that if the engine was knocking at low rpm, the sensor wouldn't be able to pick up on it, and vice versa with higher rpm's.

Maybe so, but unfortunatly tuning air fuel ratio's is a day of the past when we used to run carbs and our ignition advance angle was stricken between two points. Not so much a how to, but just a case if disconnecting the sensor from the ecu and have the knock sensor itself activate a light/buzzer. This then allows the driver to back off the throttle to protect the engine. Although saying that sometimes what the knock sensor picks up maybe interference, but to know this for its best to pull the plugs and check their condition under a 4x magnifed glass for any pitting, the same can also be done using a bore scope. If tuning an engine which has knock control I see this as a better method than tuning through det cans/knock box. Mainly on a forged engine not so on a stock engine because the pistons are too brittle. If the ecu was programmed to recieve an input from a knock sensor, make it work and use it to our advantage, no point making an engine under perform because we can hear a slight knock using det can which consequently will reduce power. Knock sensors there for a reason, if it can't detect knock it's not doing its job.

A wideband may not help, it may not even be fuel related. Splice a light or buzzer into the knock sensor and run it inside the car

I would choose a td04 over a T25 all day. If you had said GT25 ball bearing unit, then that would be far superior. But the ball bearing units aren't cheap so don't expect to pick them up at the same price as a td04 of £40.

Have you tried adjusting the idle screw on the intake manifold after swapping the ICV? Failing that check the wax stat is working properly on the throttle body

It's not just about giving a performance increase. The fuel is also much "cleaner" than you will find in other octanes such as 97, 95 etc.

Is there such a need for a 3inch boost pipe? 3inch is good for like 700bhp and will do nothing but create more lag considering your turbo will flow no where near the amount of air for such high hp.

Haven't got a pic to hand, but as you look in the engine bay. Left hand side of the inlet manifold, theres a white circular component, held on by 2 bolts. One at the front and one from behind. Also has a vacuum hose on the bottom. I'm sure theres a guide on how to clean them out, bare with me I'll see if I can find it Edit: Here guys : http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Idle+Control+Valve+Removal+and+Cleaning

Have you got an aftermarket alarm?

Try cleaning out the ICV mate

How many pins is it dude? Looks like a connector which goes into the fuse box (interior)

8's is way too cold mate for that setup. 7's will do nicely till probably about 400bhp.

Was it at night it went? What was the air temp? Static ignition timing should have been checked before touching a laptop, try and get the ignition and fuel tables off the ecu if you can Speed or rev's have nothing to do with it, thats what a rev limiter is for, to save the engine from any damage.

Air suspension setups are for comfort, not exactly what Toyota had in mind when they built the starlet, leave that to the Lexus division

Very good bit of kit for the money lad

Mike mate that clear in Taggy's thread.

Am sure Chris has built a few engines, you can't go wrong with Chris, he knows his shit. He'll point you in the direction of the Link G4, I'll put money on it lol.

Do this if you can and put the figures up on here