AdamB

Yeah man its fucking shit. I wanna leave and get an apprenticeship. I've had to drop 2 modules this year because I was in a group with some numpty's and our work got a shit grade and wasn't prepared to carrying on working with them so dropped the modules. Now I gota take em next year, hoping I can do the work on my own. Atleast that way I can only blame myself for getting a shit grade.

Motorsport Engineering at Oxford uni

The rebuild kit just includes the oil seals as far as I know. They are the same as they use the same ct9 based CHRA. Unless it was based on something like the ct12, then it might be different.

And then people wonder why car enthusiasts take up 2 spaces at places like tesco or whatever. I for one hate people with a passion in car parks as its just a free for all, if theres a mere spec of dust on my car from someone parking too close they'll be getting a right hammering.

The engine control unit has a pre-programmed set of tabular data, of which it gathers relevent data from various engine sensors, such as the MAP/MAF, IAT, CTS, TPS, Lambda, knock sensor, to process the defined value from the data table. These various sensors have an influence on the ignition advance and retard, for example if the IAT sensor records a lower value of temperature ignition advance is able to be increased due to the colder air entering the engine thus giving the engine more power on colder nights, rather than hot desert weather. If the engine control unit detects events such as knock/pre-ignition via the knock sensor, it will then retard the ignition timing to save the engine from catastrophic damage, leading to broken pistons, headgasket failures and any increase in combustion pressure from having the ignition far too davanced. Once the engine control unit has gathered the data from these sensors it is then able to "look up" the optimal ignition advance angle, this is sent as signal to the coil which then in turn ignites the spark, depending on if sequential ignition is used, the signal is sent directly to the pencil coil unit. Probably could add some more to that

Yeah it would, you wanna be careful because it will wear the woodruff key and you will be left with a fucked crank that will need a new keyway cut. Should have used a puller man lol.

This one dude : http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-888-motul-90-pa-lubricant-limited-slip-differential-lsd-extreme-pressure.aspx There are others, Redline is another good one but thats used as an additive. Motul do offer others but can go upto like £45 a litre! Most important thing to do is to change the oil on a regular basis beause its a friction type LSD any particles that have broken off the plates will increase the wear of the plates. I think every like 3-5000 miles is prefered for clutch type LSD's, so every oil change really.

Depends what your tuner feels safe with.

Thats a cusco MZ bud, can be switched from 1 to 1.5 way by rearranging the plates. They are around £700 new from RHD, so you could pick up a good bargain Never heard of anyone using the RS on a starlet, but the MZ Jamie and a few others swear by em, I'm getting one shortly on his recommendation The MZ does knock and clunk, but stick some Motul oil on it and it should shut it up a lot.

You should count the amount of fins per inch of core, this is a good indication of how good the cooler is at dissipating heat. The Greddy cores are most likely the best as they have about 9 fpi, the less there is the greater the gap between the fins, allowing greater cooling capacity.

The smaller 48.5 I believe

TPS most likely. Had the same problem.

They are good coolers, upto about 400bhp. Although I think a little too big than it really needs to be.

Check the thermostat area for any loose/broken wires. This is one area where sensors differ between the two engines.

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Shit luck dude Should find out what happened, couldn't have been due to wear if they were brand new.

Yes, same mate

Jeez which one lol. Too much choice.

Where can I buy that spoiler?

Oh my fapping awesome!

You need to bolt the 2 side straps to bolt eyes on the seat. The rear should go to a harness bar, but some people tend to bolt them to the rear seatbelt mounting holes. It's not ideal because its at the wrong angle.

Looking good man! Not sure if I like it coming out that far though, could be trimmed back a little, might look a little neater and not take out kids legs lol. Would be epic to make an MDF underfloor tray Get the car sucked to the ground!

Just run the ecu below fuel cut and it'll be fine

They will knock/clunk until the initial torque has activated the LSD.

Just to add as a bit of interesting reading. Done a bit of digging around in some old engine tuning books of mine. According to one source the intake ports should be 0.83 the size of the valve diameter, however if the valves are already too large for that specific engine then it's possible to take this down to 0.77 size of the valve diameter. I would expect it to be much like a venturi effect, but its hard to say without actually spending some £££ on flow bench time and modifying a cylinder head each time. Saying that though a turbo engine can most likely get away with using large valves/ports because its being force fed rather than relying on the piston and gravitational acceleration. Although it would depend exactly what kind of setup your looking to run, something like a tight twisty track you may get away with smaller sized ports to boost up mid range power. Another thing to consider would be the gear ratio's, a small lightweight car will run quite happily on long ratio's because its acceleration is that much greater. Do the same with a car which ways 1500kg compared to 800kg, it will be sluggish and never make a good car to drive. The FTE cams have a duration of 224 In, 228 Ex. I haven't actually a clue of the stock valve diameter in truth.