AdamB

What kinda boost you looking to run? 1.4mm will be fine, but 1.2mm will probably be more than enough. CR = (Swpet volume + Clearence volume) / Clearence volume If using dished pistons they are +ve, dome pistons are -ve because they deduct volume from the total volume. You need to know the volume of the combustion chamber in the cylinder head as it varies, I believe stock is 38cc. Also 1mm = 1cc, 1ml = 1cc.

No leaks? Whats your procedure for bleeding them? Sounds as if you've replaced near enough everything so must be something your doing wrong mate.

Wouldn't necessarily need forged internals, but a standalone ecu is a must. Tbh the RON rating is pretty much useless, its the MON rating that is more important, yet this isn't published. Plus you need to know the British thermal unit (energy of fuel) to get the most of the setup. Normal pump fuel is like 13,000 BTU, yet Methanol is somewhere around 4000 BTU, hence you have to burn Meth at rich mixtures like 5:1 AFR.

TRD gasket, or skim the head excessively. Make sure to check the valve - piston clearence though. If I was to build a track motor it would be a high comp 4e with cams and a td04

You maybe waiting a long time to sell at £5k, no ones prepared to pay that sorta money these days.

You can run more boost/ignition advance. But really there is no need to run such a large gasket. It will run like a sack of shit off boost because it would be such low compression. You'll probably be looking around the low 7:1's. My personal opinion is the stock engine is too low compression anyway (4EFTE), you can easily get away with running 9:1 on 99 RON fuel, although the boost- compression ratio relationship depends what turbo your running, how efficient it is and what boost you want to run it at. You could run a td04 at 1 bar with a CR of 9:1 happily, it will be massively responsive and make 240whp. A Higher CR gives an increase in HP & Torque across the whole rev range, and increases fuel consumption

Believe Rob H is running one of these. He used an idle control valve though.

If you run too much negative camber, you'll be fine going round corners, but there will be less tyre on the road when it comes to accelerating and braking. -1.5 seems to be ideal for a starlet from what I've heard. If the cars not used as a daily am sure you wouldn't mind a bit more tyre wear for a bit more cornering ability. Could go for a little toe out on the front, but not really needed. Castor varies, some people like it because of the increased steering response, some people don't like it.

Was it knife edged? I've heard of a similar story where the crank was lightened and it cracked/fractured.

Wiseco's after sales is shit mate lol.

You won't go wrong with Hastings, been around for quite some time now, I've never heard anything bad about them

Hastings are good rings, some people use them on forged builds

After an N/A starlet as a daily. Must have fairly long'ish MOT, not fussed about tax but the more the better. Must be within around 50-60 miles of Oxfordshire. Preferably after a 3 door any colour, manual.

Bad idea, still suffers heat soak. Not worth it imo. Just get a front mount, the increase in lag is minimal.

Running rich on a small ct9 is not a bad thing as its quite an inefficient turbo.

Russ @ Performance HQ seems to be the most popular choice mate.

Whats it doing when not starting? Is it turning over? Have you checked to make sure your getting spark?

7 Nm mate

Brutal !

DEI is the stuff you want

Turn it down, port the wastegate, fit a FCD + Fpr, go for a larger turbo.

Try checking the plug wires mate, Check the HT leads as well. Another thing would be to make sure its getting a good earth as it gets its earth through the bracket from the firewall.

Got a boost gauge?

Ah that might be what it is then, just checked and this is what was listed from the lad I got it from "Metal caged uprated race bearings". Well will find out exactly what its got when I go to Owens next week

Aeromotive