AdamB

That doesn't look lightened to me dude, the stock casting is still there.

The stock counter gets its signal from the dizzy trigger. Can't think of what one it is off the top of my head but can find out tomorrow.

S bonnet colour coded. Sick of looking at Varis glanza's now.

Sell the mrs then! Either way its a win win

Get a fuel pressure gauge on there to check it, chances are if its adjustable its probably been fiddled with. Then take it from there.

You know it makes sense mate! Don't do it! Better than breaking atleast.

What boost pressure are you running? You can run upto 0.8 bar without adjusting the fueling at all.

You did know you can use a BOV to control boost? It's what used to be used on racing engines a few years ago, generally located on the hot side of the intercooler. Besides both a wastegate and BOV serve to do the exact same job, expel excess gas to maintain the correct pressure.

It makes no difference what so ever what way you mount the cooler, mount it sideways if you got room. Engine bay looks good mate, whats the brief spec?

What a bellend. 0-2mm is quite a large range, bet you couldn't even measure the tread depth as theres nothing there.

You running an aftermarket stainless manifold?

They are pretty mega to buy new. Some guy selling one on here atm for £370 I think it was.

I would personally run a temp sensor first and see what it gets too. If the oil temp doesn't get to 115 degree's it would be a waste really, and I doubt you'll ever get to that kinda figure unless you were tracking the car where the throttle is constantly on and off. Feathering the throttle round town and a quick blip here and there will not cause you any trouble.

Not trying to put you off, but take a read here : http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?88009-Did-you-ever-crash-your-Glanza-How-was-it-safety-wise-Any-pics A car that was designed in the late 80's early 90's, has materials which are made from old Heinz baked bean tins is not going to be safe. Some people have had acidents in their starlets and have walked away unscaved, the car crumpled and did its job in doing so. However saying that, if god forbid you were to have an acident with your children in the car, would you be prepared to take the risk? I know from first hand experience, I was involved in a high speed crash in my dads old skyline, baring in mind that was a late 90's, weighing in at nearly 2 tonnes of material. The car crumpled like a tesco bag, and the roof had to be cut off to get me out as the seat twisted as the car hit the armco. Just my 2 pence.

There alright tbh mate, but the Zisco one is massive compared to it. If you just fancy a bit of JDM'ness then why not.

Where you get that from mate? They have been discontinued for some time. Traders like Zisco and Race-Tech do their own mate

Need more pics!

Gone over to the dark side Can't wait to see what you turn this into though mate.

I wouldn't bother wasting your time, money or effort on porting the cylinder head. They are the same head as used on the FTE and we have seen it time and time again where the stock head still flows well enough to support 280bhp+, which is never going to be made on an N/A. You could smooth it, but refrain from any material removal and just concentrate on blending and shaping.

If looking at the plug with the rectangle plastic notch at the top, the connections at the bottom : The left one goes to the Ground - ECU, the right connection goes to the ECU signal wire.

It just says Toyota hatchback on most I think. Don't even think mine have ever said Starlet tbh.

The best thing to do is to increase the compression ratio. The 5EFE was 9.4:1, if you can get this to 10:1 + you'll see a signifcant gain in torque over the entire rev range. Another thing I find with the N/A engines is that the rev limit is way too short, you need to be rev'ing the motor to atleast 7500rpm, with cams and ITB's you will probably still be making power at 8200rpm. Take a look at any N/A dyno graphs on the leaderboard, the power is still climbing then they hit the limiter.

Is the fan cutting in?

I believe powerflex now stock both sizes online after someone on here emailed them about the bushes being different sizes.

Get some auto sol metal polish and give it a good scrub mate. If its got oily residue inside flush it out with petrol or just run warm water through it till it clears, make sure to fill it, block both ends and give it a good shake. As for the fins, get a small flatblade screwdriver and just seperate them, you'll prob find some will break off though which isn't good but can't be helped.