AdamB

Get a paperclip, stick one end in E1 and the other end in TE1.

TRD mate, they normally have some like solid bushes as well.

Looking good buddy, cant wait to see wll your exterior bits in. Had a little nosey round this at japfest and looks good mate! How come your still running the stock rev limit though? Need to be pushing that turbo atleast to 8500rpm ;)

Nice mate, you using that as an input for the ecu aswell? How comes you decided to put it in the housing rather than the mani?

Correct, no the oil pump has a marking pointer on it thats all

Is that an EGT sensor drilled in the turbine housing mate? Or a wheel speed sensor?

Depends on the fuel pressure, but would probably say somewhere in the region of 380-420bhp. Would never like to exceed around 92% duty cycle personally, but thats down to how comfortable the tuner is.

Its not likely the block will warp but check it with a straight edge and a torch. Its essential to atleast check it if the short motor isn't being removed from the car.

TPS mate or TPS wiring fault.

Gasket looks blown between 2&3, and slightly gone on 3 to 4.

Did you check for any blockages in the cooling system? Change the thermostat?

A turbo motor will always run slightly rich. Whats the reason for pulling the head off in the first place? This would be very unlikely to cause your hesitation problem providing you have good compression.

I would check the cylinder head for the same kinda colourless patches, I wouldn't worry about it as the spark plug is slap bang in the centre of the head, this is where combustion is going to take place, hence the build up of carbon. You will be losing a touch of power on these cylinders, but in terms of the health of the engine its nothing to be scared about

Looks like its been running well to me, looks a little on the rich side due to the carbon deposits, but thats normal on a turbo motor and one thats been ran for some time. Combustion looks as if its been well under control, the area of no colouration is known as the squish area, you'll probably find that this ares of the cylinder head also has little carbon deposit build up. On cylinders 2 & 3 at the bottom where there is also no colouration could well indicate that the piston is coming too close to the combustion chamber, this retards the ignition flame.

Easiest way is to use an impact gun, failing that jam the flywheel with a strong screwdriver/crowbar, get a long breaker bar and give it a tug. Some people put the breaker bar on and crank the engine over, but wouldn't recommend it as if the socket isn't on properly you'll easily round it off.

Usea pulley puller. Seen way too many smacked with a hammer, crowbar and whatever else and you end up with a chipped or cracked pulley thats good for the bin.

Glad nothing serious happened, seemsto be a lot of scum attacking starlets atm. Connect a spare coil pack to the car body, that will give them a nice suprise when they touch it!

Thats cool mate

Guy doesn't know what hes on about, they come with a 2 bar map sensor standard as a 1 bar wouldn't read any boost pressure at all.

Check the fuses in the engine bay, also the ones under the dash, you probably shorted something out.

Cheers buddy, drivers side it is im after as the one I got has been hacked to shit.

After an uncut, undrilled, untouched A pillar plastic for a GT, mk3 if it makes any difference.

Its running a gt25 turbo so prob either got another flange welded on or an aftermarket mani, been for sale for a little while though.

See this on facebook yesterday, one reason why I dont like/trust mobile dyno's. Their shit.

Need to be a paid member now mate. Thinks its only a quid or two, go into the store to pay a membership