AdamB

Breather > catch can PCV >Catch can Catch can > Inlet manifold

If it's not chucking any smoke out it must be a leak. I would bet its a crank seal as they are sealed at both ends really, although if it was gearbox end your clutch would be slipping. Try pulling the bottom timing cover off and check in there if nothing else is visible from the top end

Vtec Vs Boost, Honda Vs Toyota Deja vu?

The oil light flickering will be the pressure switch on the front of the block, by the exhaust manifold. Your best bet is to fit a 1 way check valve when removing the charcoal canister.

Copy and paste my friend http://wheelweights.net/

Headgasket, wouldn't drive it anymore as you'll be flooding the cylinders with water and will end up even more costly.

Load of bollox, your telling me the cams are different and in only 2013 we are just finding this out? 15 years on from when the 98 spec was released? The only difference is the 5EFHE cams have more lift and longer duration (slightly). All other E series camshafts are the same. The part numbers are likely to be different because Toyota changed the material/manufacturing process that the cams were made of/from.

Well not updated this for a while but I have been working on the car behind the scenes. Been cracking on with preparing the shell for seam welding, where the rear has been painted with a paint brush and is fairly uneven all the way around its taken a bit of time to get it done. But it's nearly there now and I can't move onto the front. I can't believe how weak, flimsey and the gap between the panels actually is, its hard to see with paint and the seam sealer in the way, but after removing most of the sealant I was amazed at how little effort you have to put in to move the panels. This is how it started out http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/Start_zps559d8630.jpg.html'> Excuse the dust in the rest of the pics, I need to get the hoover in there but it started raining http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/Total_zpscb696cc1.jpg.html'> Suspension strut seam with all paint and sealant removed http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/Strutseam2_zps2c7edad3.jpg.html'> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/Strutseam_zps257d64ed.jpg.html'> Boot seam where the floor pan meets the boot, you can still see some of the sealant on the left side http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/Bootfloorseam_zps796c2190.jpg.html'> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/Bootfloorseam2_zps394fe5c6.jpg.html'> This is under the rear light, you can see all the sealant I've picked out http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/Rearlightseam_zps620cad3a.jpg.html'> Thats all the pics I have as I didn't think anyone would just want to see a car with less paint lol. It has been pretty time consuming doing it, but after seeing what I've seen its deffo gonna be worth it. The tools I used were a drill, wire drill bits, punch, chisel, hammer, stanley knife. Used the drill with the wire bits to remove the paint and remove as much of the sealant around the seams as possible, then using the stanley knife cut a long the seam sealant and use the chisel/punch to pull it up. Hoping to have the rear completely finished tomorrow, I've only got the offside rear seat well to finish off, which won't take 5 mins as the paint is very thin there. Then it will just be a case of going round and pulling out the rest of the sealant. I'll be removing the dash and getting that flocked a long with the A pillar plastics, not sure if I should go all black or have the dial surround and stereo surround in white to match the car? Think it might look a bit tacky. When the dash is out I'll be looking to remove any wires that aren't needed just to clean it up, any wires that will potentially be on show will be covered in braided sleeving and shrink heated.

Where the fuck you finding all this JDM'ness Grant? Share your tree lol.

Chuck a bore scope down it, as above the sump can be a pain in the neck to seal again.

I think a battery tray would be more of a custom thing, but I know Demon Tweeks do them. Only other thing you would need is some longer cable which I'm sure you can get on the bay

Ogura/Blitz ACT Spec OS Giken Exedy Competition Clutch ECC Twin plate Take ya pick lol.

Panhard nut come loose

Sender unit in the tank

Dyno Queens

Any good brand of 10w40 will do for now mate.

Yep

Flywheel bolts

Don't release the pedal when the nipple is open as this will draw in air, hence your spongy pedal. Open the nipple and press the pedal down to the floor, close the nipple then release the pedal.

77mph, mods were two stripes down the bonnet, heard if I added one to the roof I would have got an extra 50bhp and hit 189mph. Ran outa funds tho

Nice one mate, let me know

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Its an M9 spline bit before you go getting the wrong one mate, if you round one off use an M10 spline bit.

What engine management are you using? You will need a programmable unit. There are gains to be had no matter what your power level as it reduces the chance of knock, ideal for those with higher air temps or poor fuel quality.

Nah mate I ment just change the springs in the ex gate to take the base pressure upto 1.4 bar. Only downside to this is that you can't go any lower than this.