AdamB

How much you willing to spend? Am sure you can pick up second hand AVCR's for around £220 ish. Not seen the new Profec myself, but the old ones were good value for money, reliable and worked just as they should.

Doesn't really matter, they are non-interference engines, so if the belt snaps just time the engine back up and whack a new belt on

Greddy Profec, HKS, Apexi are all good makes. Im personally not a fan of Blitz controllers but they are very easy to setup. If you want the all singing all dancing you have to go for the Apexi AVCR, it has some great features.

Yeah I see the trailer, this Sunday 8pm. Does seem a little early, but no complaints

Thats not normal mate, there should be tension to hold the wastegate shut until the desired boost pressure is hit.

Starlets aren't so good at top speed because they are a short wheel base and become unstable when compared to a car with a larger wheel base. But this does make them good on the twisties, and thats where big balls matter

Believe the boxes are geared to like 168'ish, although this varies on drag coefficient, tyre size, wheel size, torque. Will easily hit those sorta speeds on a dyno but in the real world would probably be quite unlikely without a lot of power.

Put it in a vice mate, should come easily then.

The locking rings tend to seize solid on coilovers after a period of time. Best thing to do is to soak it in some WD40 for a few hours then try and release them using a C spanner, or knocking them round, even try some heat if you are able to get to some oxyacetylene. Failing that you'll have to cut them off and get new rings.

Believe it will just be that mate, seeing as it passed NCT not long ago I can't see much being picked up on an MOT check.

Sure is, You need to get a V55/5 form, fill it out, pay £55, provide them with ID and vehicle details. They'll then send you a V5C, they may want to take a look at the car as well to ensure its road legal etc. But you need to start off with filling out the V55/5 form you can get from your local DVLA office. They should tell you the next steps to take

You need to get it registered, its the same process as what you do if importing a car from Japan for example. https://www.gov.uk/importing-vehicles-into-the-uk/registering-an-imported-vehicle https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/new-registrations

You'll be fine as long as its ran below fuel cut. Wouldn't say you'll see much power tbh beacuse the td04 doesn't really start to get going till about 1 bar.

The 5E head is the same as other E series engines. The problem comes that the 5E block is like 10mm taller to accomodate the extra stroke length so you will find the manifold/downpipe will not line up or sit correctly due to this height difference.

Ask TD where the rest are at then mate

I got a whole set of springs in my MVS box mate. Here's a list of what should come in the box: Included with every Tial MV-S: MV-S Assembly 2 TiAL -4 AN removable water fittings MV-S Valve Seat Inlet V-band clamp & Flange Outlet V-Band Clamp & Flange 2 TiAL Air Fittings Plugs for unused air ports Extra actuator springs Copied from the Tial website. I got mine from Owen Developments with no issues.

Owen Developments Although you should have got all the springs if you purchased the unit new.

Just like you would replacing the timing belt tbh, but you have to remove the pulley. Use the proper tool as you can soon end up with cracks and bits missing off the pulley. Once the pulley is off its fairly straight forward, remember to put a thin film of oil round the new seal as you push it in and put it in as evenly as possible.

He's too busy playing with the launch control from what facebook says

Haven't been for a few years, but try stay away on weekends if possible. I went on a Saturday and ended up having a bit of a wait for some of the rides. It was my first time I had been and found it ok, once you been on each ride once its a bit boring tbh. You can spend a good few hours there though.

Fuel cut is 0.85 bar, but varies slightly. You should be okay for now, but I would still say its best to get it checked with a wideband and det cans.

Deffo forged, have fun trying to put that sump on without it leaking

Depends what you want to use the car for tbh. A car to run to the shops and back will be fine with upto 20% leakage, but looking for a good performance motor 5% would be ideal.

Having the engine warm makes little to no effect on the reading you get anyway, although ideally it should be tested when warm. A leak down test would be far better as it is a lot more accurate than a compression test. Anything more than 5% leakage indicates a serious problem.

As I commented in the other thead. Did you try a wet test? Dropping a tea spoon of oil down each bore and seeing if the reading rises to indicate a ring/cylinder problem. If you replace the piston rings you'll have to get the block honed otherwise the new rings won't seat against the cylinder wall. You would most likely be far better off purchasing another working engine.