AdamB

Same part number mate

Has been done many times. Need to swap a few things over and sort a bit of wiring. They go well from what I've heard.

TRD unit it looks like. They normally come with a splodge of yellow paint and have a slight kink in them angled towards the driver. Hard to see from that angle but it does look like it has this bend.

The threaded nut on the top, it sits below the pressure fitting.

Whats the part number on it mate? Edit : Just checked and the Glanza and N/A use the same fuel pump. You'll be fine to run it, but a new or uprated one wouldn't go a miss as they are getting old now.

Was that with a warm engine and the throttle wide open? Cylinders 1 & 4 seem fine when the throttle is closed. However you do seem to have a problem with cylinders 2 & 3.

They are both not ideal. All your doing is fooling the standard ecu, which ever route you choose. Its never ever going to guarantee engine safety. The only advantage the emanage or any piggyback for that matter has over the FCD + FPR route is that the ignition timing can be adjusted, this is where power, fuel economy, engine smoothness is won or lost. Providing the FCD + FPR is setup correctly I would take that any day over a monkey from kwik fit mapping an emanage. Conclusion is, the person that tunes it needs to have an understanding of why, how and what these methods do. The best way is to run a full standalone system, which is normally way out of most peoples budgets or people just aren't prepared to pay for it.

lol Nah Steve's right, pretty much a spitting image. Our landlord has come round and given her an eviction notice now anyway, he doesn't like her one bit from what he told me.

Yeah we do, fit an adjustable cam pulley. However thats where the E series has its limitations not being a true twin cam design, so what you do to one cam, does the same to the other. I forever hear people say that adjustable cam pulleys aren't needed unless you are running cams blah blah. But the pulley does have its uses, if your tuner knows what they are doing that is.

Knocking is just a term used for violent combustion. It won't be likely to happen after TDC because the mixture will be able to increase in volume due to not being in a confined space, pressure is at its highest at TDC, and at its lowest at BDC, although it could still well happen if there are any hot pockets. That's it, by retarding the timing the pressure is lower, but like I say depending on what your trying to achieve this isn't necessarily the best method as you can reduce the pressure also by retarding valve timing.

I would do a comp test first mate as then it will give a slightly clearer indication of whats happened. Are you sure it came out the breather? Have you checked the turbo oil feed and oil return? Have you got cam covers on the engine? Did the oil pressure light not come on when the rev's where that low?

Thats a bargain!

Best thing would be to do a compression test. Usually oil pissing out the breather indicates a piston ring/ringland problem.

You'll be back in a jiffy

A retarded spark will reduce knock because the piston would have already gone further up/gone past TDC, so rather than the flame pushing the piston down the cylinder, the flame is following the piston down. No that would be wrong, thats the worse thing. We only want 1 strong explosion to push the piston down the cylinder. Having more than one bang makes it harder to control the flame, hence why with poor combustion design/piston design you end up with hot and cold pockets around the cylinder. When the plug puts out a spark, the first point to burn is the mixture that is closest to the plug tip, the flame then expands outwords.

You wouldn't have to get it MOT'd every year, depending on the condition just give it some TLC and look after it. If you wanted to and could afford to you could always put it back on the road at a later date.

If you did that you would have a very rough map with a very non-linear power curve and it would be hard to keep it in the powerband. Try and look for an F3 race car dyno graph, they have a very linear response on the power curve.

Get this one out the way first : Knock comes on when the ignition timing is too far advanced (or there may be other reasons such as carbon deposits etc), for that load point. At that load point there is X amount of cylinder pressure, and also that load point may be able to take say Y amount of ignition advance. The reason it is retarded is to control the flame, the pressure in the cylinder is too great for that amount of ignition advance, hence why you would have noticed people saying "High compression engines are more likely to suffer knock" because the cylinder pressures are greater. The easy way round it is to reduce the amount of ignition advance, however this isn't the best way to tune an engine. You will find that many race cars have probably a seperate map for every track/rally/event etc because they want the torque in a specific range, ie mid range for a circuit with flowing bends but short straights. So what happens is they retarded the valve timing to make the valves open later and close later, this reduces peak cylinder pressures. Now we know that retarding the valve timing will change the powerband so we use that to our advantage when mapping for a specific event and we can increase the ignition advance in this area say from 2500-5000rpm. Obviously theres more to it than that, the way the combustion chamber is design, piston crowns, if a headgasket is used or not all have influences on compression ratio, peak cylinder pressures, ignition advance. The reason why forced inducted motors generally run less ignition advance is because the turbo operates within a certain window, for example you wouldn't expect a tiny ct9 to still produce 170whp at 8500rpm and also the engine is way out of its volumetric efficiency and cylinder pressures will drop off here. Knock is most likely to occur at peak torque as this is when peak cylinder pressures are. Now looking at an N/A engine, the best way to make an N/A engine make more power is to increase the rev limit (providing there are no restrictions, intake, exhaust etc) This will be when you see ignition advance rise all the way up the rev range due to the nature of the powerband for an N/A engine. Don't forget that the ecu will also pick up information from other area's such as IAT, TPS, so when cruising with throttle position say >35% the ignition advance can be increased for fuel economy. Also the knock properties of the fuel play a big part.

Nest I believe

Losing any oil at all? Not too familier with the engine but maybe valve clearences?

Let us know how you get on mate

Sorry to hear about that mate. It's really upto you, depends how much value you think it has. If you feel like it is something really special then maybe consider putting it in storage?

Whats the gain set at? The gain might be set too high causing it to overboost.

Best to get a second opinion on it mate. Maybe if you have a transmission specialist local to you it might pay off to drive the car down to them and get one of their employee's to drive it etc and give you some more feedback

Have you had the block decked Iddy? Surface still looks dirty. Looking good though, whens this likely to be finished?