AdamB

The stock ecu won't be able to read it as it will be scaled differently. Will work with programmable management though.

Agree with this, the anti lift kit is a bit of a personal preference thing, you have to try it for yourself, what works for one driver may not work for another.

Might be waiting quite some time mate. Prob best to get in touch with an importer to see if they can find any laying around in Japland. Failing that it will be a whole new car

Thought that was what I saw as well mate. Tempted to get one, am sure they are well designed and made to be able to withstand some punishment. You'll be fine with the 0.6mm gasket mate, will go well with your setup

Ay you may be able to live with, but will your high spec, tight tolerenced engine?

Ah fair enough, I haven't seen them on there for atleast 2-3 years. Was Spuddy running one of ECC's gaskets then? I thought he was running the TRD gasket? I've got a Athena sat here, but some people have had problems with them sealing and pissing oil out, so I'm tempted to swap it out for a thinner more reliable one as well. Thanks for the info Phil!

I did look at Nengun but they don't have them listed for the Starlet anymore. RHD have never done them as far as I know. I did see ECC have had some done, but I wasn't sure how good they would be, as I've read that the TRD gaskets can take a hell of a lot of abusive and knock before blowing.

The OEM Toyota part number you want for the Shimless buckets is : 13751-23310. Not sure which Yaris they come from though. Them MaxSpeeding ones have been floating around for some time, and deffo worth a punt! Although like I said I'm sure they don't offer oil squirters. I was going to run oil squirters in my engine, but I've already got Pauter rods so they will be going in the block, jets are easy enough to get hold of, just hope my machine shop are competent enough to fit them

Depends on turbo, boost pressure and what fuel your using. TRD will be fine unless you've had the block and head skimmed excessively. Phil, any idea where you can get the TRD gaskets now mate?

Maybe try an oil change mate, you might have some fuel or coolant floating on top of the oil.

It will never be safe imo. Your still essentially tricking the ecu into what figures it see's. A standalone is a far better option where the processor and memory actually see's the correct sensor values. Besides if you are looking to change away from the EMB, scrap the EMU, Dastek, PFC etc and just get a standalone, you can pick up a Haltech Sprint 500, Omex 600, DTA S40/S60 all for under a grand. Am sure you are more than competent to make your own field harness as well, unless you really want to change the loom for a Raychem spec.

As everyone has said above about the setup really. Although the difference in mm with roll bars is not the thickness, its the distance between the bush mounting and the drop link connection point. The closer the drop link to the bush, the stiffer it is, the further away the softer it is. Upto you if you want an adjustable one really, if your going to be using the car as a circuit car then everything you can adjust always helps with the setup till you find something you like.

Agree with that ^^ Try not to smash the rings lol.

Thats strange. You can use a Hex key, 8mm I believe so bit strange as to why yours where like 2-3 sizes larger.

Looks fucking epic! See a few things before about it but they never looked this good. It's amazing to see how far things have come and what they have been able to encorporate into the game, so many things to do! Makes me sound old

You'll be fine if you set it at 3 bar and just drive off boost till its checked

Must have been seriously rounded off or you managed to squeeze it in there lol, its deffo an M9. Standard bolts anyway.

Remove the sump On the crank you'll see the con rods, these are held in place by 2 bolts on the rod cap, loosen both of them and tap with a soft mallet to break the caps away from the rod. Make sure you keep each cap with each rod as they are a mated pair, also note direction they come off. Once you done this with all 4 pistons, push the con rod up and out the top of the bore.

The headbolts are under the cams mate. You'll need an M9 spline tool as well. be careful as they do round off very easily! If you do round 1 off get a M10 spline tool and knock/hammer that in the bolt head.

Set it at 3 bar and have it setup with a wideband, doesn't take much to blow an engine mate.

The inducer looks very similar to a stock ct9, but it just doesn't fit the housing. As someone said above I believe TD did have a Jam turbo, might be worth asking for pics?

If you boys are going to go to the extent of removing the cylinder head, you would be mad not to pull the pistons to check them! You can't check the piston skirts and ringlands for any damage whilst they are sat in the bore.

No you can't, you need to remove the cams mate.

Just watch how many sets are gonna sell now I think they would get a lot more attention if they put a bit more time into the advert and concentrate on selling the actual con rods rather than the ARP bolts! More information for the buyer wouldn't go a miss, rather than a potential buyer thinking that they are "too cheap" instead of finding out processes etc.

Still got a PCV mate? Sounds like this as it is only open under vacuum and closes under boost. So if your getting excessive vapour come out the oil cap it would indicate your getting excessive crank case pressure.