AdamB

Looks like its leaking quite bad mate.

Would be interesting to know mate 9:1 will be good, be interesting to see how much boost it can take though, as long as you can get the turbo operating at its most efficient it will go extremely well. Your going to need to get the chamber to a volume of 46cc if you want to run a bang on 9:1 ratio mate with a 1.4mm gasket, if you choose the 1.6mm gasket you'll need 45.8cc. If your going to go for larger than 1.6mm I would personally opt to get the block O-ringed. That give's you a target to work on for your head now

That's what I can gather mate, would assume it's that way but don't know how far the stock piston dome protrudes into the chamber so can't work it out. If you deck your block you can get the same result Although the CR is high enough as it is lol. I'm not sure if the N/A use harmonic damper pulleys, but I know for sure the FTE does. I would swap it just to be safe. You'll find your thrust bearings live a lot longer with a harmonic pulley.

I've never seen an off the shelf rod with these, only Carillo offer them as a custom order. The stock CR of the 5EFE was 9.4:1 and the FHE was 9.8:1, I believe the dome shape is raised into the chamber to change the CR. I haven't had my engine apart yet so not sure. But checking here seem's like they do by a few mm. So all they have done is just removed the raised dome to make it a flat top. http://www.tercelreference.com/tercel_info/component_library/engine_components.html#pistons

Yeah mate, not far off the same I'd guess. 1 bar around 3400rpm is what most people seem to achieve. Check out comparisons here : http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?9694-Whose-done-a-5E-Conversion/page3

That small hole is the oil jet, built into the rod. The pistons are only part of the equation though mate, it's all to do with volumes. So with the flat tops your CR will be 10.62:1 with a 1.4mm gasket and stock combustion chamber.

Ah yeah fair enough. Well how much power do you want to run in the future? I'd be looking to run a CR of around 8.5:1 for most setups.

A td04 won't last very long at 1.6 bar for sure. They are near enough beyond their efficiency at 1 bar. 1.4 bar would be the max, anymore you would have to run water/meth injection. Td05 will be good upto like 1.8 bar from what I've seen.

Does sound like its not sealing properly. Have you just got a T piece fitted or have you got one of those remote mounting kits?

My opinion would be it seem's like a bit of a waste of money to spend running a standard turbo and ecu really. You can run that boost pressure all day on a standard engine. Unless your looking to run some power later on?

Not only do they spike, they are very hard to control and need adjustment virtually daily.

If you only plan on running 0.8 bar, ditch the FCD and FPR and just run it as stock. Only when you go over 0.8 bar will you need the FCD and FPR to keep things safe.

Them rods haven't got any oil jets mate, they are normally situated on the big end. Something like this : http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/M_rod_oil_squirter_zps9d57e088.jpg.html'> Flat as a pancake mate lol. Hmm that's the American way, that's what they all do over there, run stupid high CR levels and low boost. The stock gasket is 1mm. I would be looking to do a little work on the combustion chamber of the head mate, maybe increase the volume to around 43-44cc as opposed to stock of 38cc, this will drop the CR to around 9.35:1 with a 1.4mm gasket.

Might be worth cleaning off around that area and taking it for a little drive and see if it comes back, that way you know for sure

What ecu, fuel and boost do you plan on running? Ulitmately these will affect what your static CR can be. Is it 5E or 4E? The higher the better, greater fuel economy, more power, more torque, linear powerband etc, however as said you'll increase the chances of knock and you'll also need a very good ignition system to provide a strong spark under high pressures.

Wepr have just done their own one as well, I see on facebook yesterday I think it was.

A GT28 will spool as fast as a td04 easily. It's new technology vs Dinosaur tech lol. It just costs a lot more, more than what most people are willing to pay considering the turbo on its own is near enough a grand. I've worked out that roughly a 5E could get a GT28 to spool 1 bar around 3300rpm. Both will be pretty similar, but the 5E will make more torque which can make all the difference.

Nice, get some pics up when you can mate. Ah I see, did you get the oil squirters in the rods in the end? I can't understand why they would send flat tops if they knew it was going to be a boosted engine?

The bearing shells are different to a 4E mate as they are different journal diameters. Make sure you get 5E bearings! The bearings over here can be picked up for around £110, the oil pump seal am not sure on but can't see it being too much.

As above, one of the traders on here will be able to help you out. I've also got a Zisco kit, albeit for a GT28 though.

Nice, are you going to get it on a flow bench? Don't polish the inlet side though otherwise the fuel will just fall straight out the air, try and get it to swirl. If you have a flap wheel use something like a 180 grit for a final finish on the inlet side. lol ah damn your gonna have a high comp motor. Let us know what they say, they might swap them for you, although bit of a pain to send the back.

Am not too sure with loctite tbh as I've never used it, always used PTFE tape and never had a problem. Someone who has used it with liquids before may be able to provide a better answer though.

1.1mm is the stock gap for an OEM un-modified engine.

Did you put any PTFE tape or similar around the threads of the sender going into the block?

I moved out nearly 4 years ago to go to uni, was a big shock but you just need to budget. Food is ridiculous, as is gas and electric. If your place is on a meter for gas/electric do a comparison check online as sometimes you might be better off staying on the meter rather than going direct debit. I found that I was saving like £80 a year by staying on a meter. Also don't bother paying TV licence, just watch it all on demand ;)