AdamB

Measure everything if you want a nice blueprinted engine is the advice I'll give. Also make sure to get it static and dynamically balanced as this will reduce the wear on the bearing shells. Take your time and double check everything. Wouldn't bother with going for different valves or cams unless your looking to crack 350+bhp.

Yes. They are the same.

Not recommended really, only of any use if you spend plenty of time on track to go for that viscosity.

Do the test again with WOT.

The cost of the bush is very little, its the pain in the ballsack getting the old ones out.

Some people have had very good results on them.

Your just the kinda anal person to nit pick in fairness. Your the sorta person who goes round correcting grammar mistakes, like differentiating between "your" and "you're". It doesn't matter does it, we all know what he ment. He said "most places" and then you come out with a comment with "everywhere in the UK". Mikey didn't say "everywhere" did he, he said "most places". Go and troll some people on facebook dude seriously. I agree though, if someone is going to charge an hours labour for 10 minutes work then go elsewhere, but if someone doesn't have anywhere else to go, wha

0.8 bar will be the max without any management mate.

Tar and glue remover should get that off.

Some places don't take any interest in small work as it's not very profitable for them, so I can udnerstand why there is a minimum charge. Like getting a tattoo for example, if you want a really tiny one which takes 10 mins, most of the places I've been to say that the minimum charge would be like £40 as that's what an hours labour is.

Det cans allow the tuner/person to monitor knock levels by listening to the engine ping. There's too many things to list as to what causes an engine to knock, but setting up the fueling is only one part of the equation. Knock is the biggest killer of engines, and no power is gained through setting the AFR. It is possbile to set up an engine just through fueling but in my experience it's only half the job. Any questions, fire away that's what we're all here for

Sure does http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/59977-hybrid-power-ep82-totb-time/

You would be best to replace all the bushes mate. There's not too many. Check out the powerflex website, as they have the diagram on there listed with all the bushes. http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/products/Starlet-Glanza+Turbo+EP82+%26+EP91-2614/1.html

A lot of people over here tend to run a mix of normal pump fuel and E85. Don't know if they have to change their entire fuel system though, but might be something to look more into if you fancy running a blend of fuels.

Doesn't have to be on a dyno. Just someone who has det cans and knows what their doing in terms of setting it up safely

Mike's race tech hybrid td04 is 345bhp I think. Goes well and he just won the FWD handling at TOTB, so his car turbo setup goes well in terms of response and power

Get it checked by a tuner. Setting the fuel is easy, monitoring knock isn't. Unless you got access you some det cans I would play safe and set it at 3.2 bar and take a drive off boost to the tuners.

Unfortunately the wiring diagram doesn't list any resistor values Not the one I have anyway. If you have a standard ecu I would be inclined to open it up and check the resistor values that are either side of your blown one, if they match up with the HRF, I think you will be pretty safe in copying the resistance value from the stock ecu.

If only you was closer I would have snapped this up

What number or marking is on the board mate? I got some diagrams here but I doubt it will be noitceable. Edit. From your pic it looks like number 14? Can't see too clearly though. From the ECU circuit diagram, number 14 has something to do with either the A/C amplifier, believe something to do with air con, or VSV duty, possibly something to do with the original Hi/Lo solenoid. I could be completely wrong though lol.

I would wait till its repaired, Have no idea what that resistor is for on the PCB but it could well be something important.

Welcome along With your sort of budget you can buy a well spec'd forged motor. They do crop up from time to time, but most tend to get broken unfortunately as like you say, you loose too much money if the car is sold as one. To get to 250bhp in a starlet is relatively simple and fairly cheap. To get 400bhp the cost easily quadruples.

The engine timing will affect the compression yeah, but that's clearly not your problem if its burning oil. Sounds like a ring sealing problem to me, could well be valves but it would be very unlucky to happen on all 4 cylinders.

That's very low compression. Did you try a wet test?

Depends on the price really. What you want the car for, are you going to want more power in the future etc. If you are then chances are you'll be better off going down the td04 route.