AdamB

Lew91 mate, black Glanza. http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/56636-lews-v/

Sparco NS2's?

I don't think so, you can just use Non-ABS discs.

The bores may have been the same but the pistons may not have. Chopping and changing to get the correct piston-wall oil clearence

Not all models have ABS mate. If it does I believe they are on the rear discs as I've seen ABS and Non-ABS discs available. It won't do no harm, just leave the sensor unplugged as you won't have a module for it.

That is looking epic Jay! Think you need to give the bay a bit of a steam clean though mate

Take a look here bud http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?35344-Con-Rods-Gt-V-Glanza-Pix&highlight=glanza Nothing in conrete, but I don't think it's the rods themselves to blame, I think its something to do with the big ends, either poor oil supply, spun bearing, or just the fact the journals aren't all that wide and being able to spread the load efficiently. If you get the time pull the engine apart and do a bit of CSI on it

Have you tried the idle control valve mate?

It does put some strain on the thrust bearings, however I'd expect them to be tough enough to take it for quite some time before anything noitceable happens. It's not very often you see a turbo fail due to this. Saying that though if your only on a cheap turbo which can be picked up for a couple of skittles, then I wouldn't worry, however if your running a turbo which is like £1000+ I would run one.

Spec, CAP, Comp clutch, Exedy, Blitz/Orc, ECC twin plate, ACT. Take ya pick really lol.

Ah I see, atleast you got plenty of spares then! Might as well put them to good use Check out Lew's shell he wants to swap mate

Sounds like the typical chicken leg glanza rods failing yet again, bad times mate How far away are you from assembling the 5E?

After a quick search on ebay, I think you'll be better off signing up on a scooby forum and catching them on there. Prices on ebay seem to be quite optimistic and people looking to push their luck.

Bump

The thread size you need is M12x1.5 mate. Why won't the nuts fit your new wheels? The studs are the same size and pitch aren't they?

What happened to the GT shell mate? Thought you just sold bits off it?

Wouldn't say its in the best condition, I suppose I would class that as a "good used" item. It has some slight defects but still looks as if it functions correctly. I've seen a lot worse for a rear light.

The ratio's are the same, its only 3rd and 4th that are different. That said you may be able to swap a final drive from another C series gearbox.

Grade 5 or 6 will do. Single electrode will be the best as thats what the engine was designed with.

Probably couldn't even give that away lol.

You can get a set of Evo recaro's on that budget mate They pop up on here, generally on breaking threads. Althought you may be best trying some sets out before you buy to make your own mind up.

It depends if you have car specific rails, if not its a bit of cutting and welding. But the likes of Zep and recaro do make car specific rails which can crop up from time to time. Seat's depend on your budget, and what your taste is like. You can pay anything from £200 right upto £1300 for a seat, if you want carbon kevlar then expect to be paying arpund £2000+ lol. These are what I have in mine : Not light by any means, infact they are heavier than standard GT seats, but they are super comfy and even great for long distance drives.

Looking good mate, got a lot of sludge build up around the valve seats. What did you clean it with? Everyone has their own way of porting, so no one real way is best. I've seen plenty of heads that come from a shop that look good but don't do fuck all.

I've heard some stories of the Tegiwa doesn't fit properly and needs some modifying to fit. The cusco one is a straight fit however. Personally I never noticed any difference with or without one.

Yeah that's it mate, cam manufacturers decided to specify the duration @ 0.05" lift, however this isn't the peak duration of the cam, its just a helping hand in dialing the cams in. I see so many people choosing such wild cams like 280 degree's duration which just make them real lumpy and no bottom end power, when they could just opt to use a cam with a different LSA. Running a wide LSA gives a decrease in overlap making the cam much smoother and improved low-mid range, but limits top end power no matter how much duration of lift you have. Go the opposite way with a tight LSA the overlap increases meaning you loose bottom end torque, gives lumpy running but provides much better top end. The stock inlet cam has an LSA of 110 degree's, exhaust is 112 degree's. Ivan Tighe billet cam's have an LSA of 114 degree's, as you can see here the LSA is widened for aftermarket billet cams to provide smooth running with increased duration.