AdamB

Still here

I would look to change the sugar cube first as its the cheaper option, you say your one looks worn anyway, so replacing it isn't going to do any harm.

The only reason to use that size tyre is if your going for the stance look with some stretch.

Normally if the selector forks are shot, it pops out of gear, I've seen some cases where you actually have to hold it in gear it can get that bad. A synchro will grind, or not allow the correctly match engine speed to allow you to select the gear. Have you checked the cables? The sugar cube may well be a problem that certainly isn't helping. Am not sure if you can buy them new anywhere, best place would either be Iddy or Toyota.

That's a bit skinny lol. Whats the offset? You'll be ok with any tyre upto around 195 or 205.

It's bank holiday mate lol, they'll prob get in touch tomorrow. Mods are easy fairly easy to do, but depends what your doing. Take that as gospel haha, each engine is different, I lost pistons at stock boost, and I've heard of a few other people doing it as well.

I think Sky is just 2 years driving experience. Agree with Daniel though, GT's are the way forward

FA? You lost me mate haha. I live just off Preston Road mate, am sure you can see my car from there

Welcome along Where abouts in Oxfordshire you from? I'm in Abingdon, you can always come round and take a peak at my project (thats in bits lol) When I had my old GT insured I think it was around the £1000 mark with admiral, that was when I was 20, 2 years NCB.

Amen to that! Some nice motors there though.

The CR isn't a problem. I just worked out that at 300bhp with 90% duty you'll need 466cc injectors, I wouldn't like to see anymore than around 92% duty personally. So if you make more than 300bhp you will need larger injectors than the 460's.

You'll be ok with the EMU, but you won't be able to use injectors beyond 550's, or if you do you'll find controlling them will be a struggle. 1.5 bar will be ok on the ignition side of things, but I think you'll have to run pretty small spark plug gaps. You may want to check out Dean's Haltech he is selling, its only £550 which is a bargain, and they are very very easy to map. I believe he has a loom for it as well, but may need a couple of connectors.

The ZRP con rods are a sub-division os Wossner I believe, much like PEC, so quality should be pretty good. I'm not the biggest fan of Wossner pistons though, but there's too much detail to go into for this thread as its down to the piston design.

Depends what kinda price he's after for the 5E really mate, I paid quite a bit for mine, and I've seen them up for around the £200-300 mark. Don't know any machine shops round that way sorry dude. Jay makes a good point with the CR, if your going for a 4E I would deffo look to run anywhere between 8.2-8.5:1. Head work depends on your budget, I would always recommend a 3 angle valve cuts on the seats as you can gain quite a bit of flow in and out of the seat just by this. The head is where power is won or lost really, but stock heads do flow rather well.

EMU would be the minimum I would run tbh. What injectors and boost do you plan on running? I think at anything around the 1.7 bar mark you'll start blowing out the spark so you'll need to go for an ecu which has 4 ignition outputs.

Heard this the other day, had me in stitches

Welcome along Not too far from Wokingham myself, my ex used to live there as well haha.

Ivan Tighe will be the best place to get cams from Pretty good prices as well! Hahaha you choose whatever engine you want mate, I would say if you can get hold of a 5E then do it, but I wouldn't say put your life on hold until you get one.

Sounds good mate! I doubt you'll ever get the box 100% as they are getting old and tired now, after racing them as well it doesn't do them any favours. Change the oil as regular as possible reeally to keep it healthy.

Depends on the turbo you use really. If you use a td04 then I wouldn't worry about trying to get it to spool up faster, but if you want a bit more top end power then possibly something around the 255-264 degrees and 8.2mm lift. If you use the td05 you'll have no problem with making the power, but you'll have a little more lag, and you should go the opposite way on the cams, somewhere around 215-220 degree duration and 8.2mm lift will work well. That's the basic cam specs, but there is more to it. I would also advise to stay away from reground cams, like the pipercross, cruise etc as getti

It's hard to find a good example of an mx5 as well, without rusty sills lol.

It all depends on your budget and if you want to be anal and get the best parts you can really. I mean you can use Wiseco pistons and Scat/Pec rods, these rods are cheaper than the likes of Carillo and Pauter at roughly £650 and £550 respectively, but they have been used by many and are proven, however the Carillo name speaks for itself. If on a budget then I would use this spec : Wiseco pistons Scat/Pec rods 0.6mm headgasket ACL bearings ARP headbolts ARP crank bolts Mild port on the head Uprated valve springs Viton valve stem seals Obviously you'll still need all support

Will be fine to drive as a daily because the 5E gives more torque so will still be smooth, and obviously the turbo will spool faster than the equivalent 4E. If its just an occasional track toy then I wouldn't bother with half of it tbh, most of it is just me being anal and having the best parts lol. Reason I would choose a 4E over a 5E is because of its bore to stroke ratio, its a lot squarer than a 5E, infact a 4E's bore to stroke ratio is 0.96, and a 5E is 0.85. It's basically the engines ability to rev which is cruical in a track car. That said 5E's aren't lazy and even most run at 800

Depends how deep your pockets are really lol. Personal preference but if I was building an out and out track car it would most likely be a 4E with high compression. Since your building a 5E here's what I would do : Wiseco/CP Pistons Pauter/Carillo rods ACL Bearings 4AGE headstuds 4AGE crank studs Baffled sump Mild port on the head Oversize exhaust valves Bronze valve guides Solid buckets Viton valve stem seals Uprated valve springs Titanium retainers Probably talking around £2500 just for parts alone on the engine. I would choose the best standalone ecu I could aff

Because their shit lol. What about a Pulsar with just the SR20DE, MX5