AdamB

A thing I hate is when people list parts and their prices. Why the fuck do that? Like it makes much difference, every living organism knows that you can't claim back all the money you've ploughed into a car, I never know if their breaking the car or just being

I won't sell the turbo alone, as I'll be stuck with a manifold and downpipe that's no use to me and only use to someone who wants to run a Tial V-band stainless turbine housing, although I suppose you could swap the flanges to suit a TD series, not sure if the downpipe would be a direct fit though to line up with the stock exhaust system.

Thanks mate. Dunno why everyone says that just because its bottom mounted, and you'll still have to have a V-band manifold and downpipe made.

It's not cheap by no means, however it doesn't have to be expensive if you build it yourself and look out for bargains. There's plenty of help available here and around the net As to answer the question what you need is : Forged pistons Forged connecting rods Stock crank Headgasket Headbolts Crank bolts Main bearing shells Rod bearing shells Thrust bearings Oil pump Water pump Engine rebuild gasket kit As you go through there will be things you'll find that need replacing like hydraulic lifters, valve guides, valve stem seals, valves etc. You have to check everything is

If it wasn't built by yourself then I would expect whoever done it to use the correct size key to suit the application. I would always recommend using the stock pulley as its a harmonic damper pulley, would be fine to use a lightweight one if the bottom end has been balanced with it though, although I'm still not a fan.

All depends how you drive tbh. If you drive like a fanny and brake right at the last minute you can't expect a small brake area to provide the sufficient clamping force you need. Likewise if you do a fair bit of track work where the brakes are going to be getting hammered every couple of hundred meters. If its just a car you use on the road then just stick with the stock brakes and change your driving style slightly. I would choose DS2500 pads

If you buy second hand you can get there at a massive reduced cost Forged engine - £1500-£1800 TD turbo kit - £600-1200 Management system - £800 ish Then obviously your going to need 460cc + injectors, exhaust system, fpr. Plus LSD, brakes, suspension mods.

Done some number crunching with old reciepts I have and the cheapest I can go on this kit is £2550

It depends on what the clearences and tolerences are like on the engine tbh, because the engine was designed back in the 80's to use on semi synth oils it has larger clearences. It is possible to run the engine tighter on clearences as specified in the manual though and you can use fully synth oils as they are generally slightly thinner. But looking for good quality fully synth based oils then something like Millers, Fuchs, Motul, Mobil are good choices. Heading in to the colder weather, if used daily I would use a 5w40. The woodruff key was put back in wasn't it? You can get larger si

The blue will do fine for a td04

As above! Remove aux belts, remove crank pulley (may need a puller), remove bottom timing belt cover, remove the crank gear and replace the seal. You would also be mad not to replace the oil pump seal as well, or even change the entire oil pump assembly whilst your at it.

Are you still on the standard actuator? That may well be your problem with a weak diaphragm.

Use this oil mate http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-millers-oils-cro-10w-40-competition-running-in-oil.aspx Then at 1500 miles swap over to a synthetic of your choice Use a magnetic sump plug, but I find that they are way too small to collect everything, so putting a magnet in the bottom of the sump, something from a hard drive or off an old speaker/sub does the trick

Run the engine on Millers running in oil, can be had from Opie Oils. Here's what I would do to ensure you have good ring seal and reliable engine : Start engine for first time, set ignition timing, check for leaks etc and allow fan to cut in once. Ensure the idle stays around 1500rpm to increase oil flow around the entire engine. Drive the engine HARD for 20 miles, you don't have to thrash the engine to the redline, using 2nd, 3rd and 4th load up the engine upto around 5000rpm ensuring you work the engine. When coming back off load, use engine braking and only slightly on the brake

Suit you sir!

Phil managed 260bhp with a 0.6mm gasket at 1 bar on a td04. They work well

Don't give a toss what happens in Syria tbh, let them crack on with it, as long as it doesn't involve us. Am sick of hearing about Iraq, Afgan and all the rest of it for no reason what so ever.

This is it, pay 192 £9 and you can have the address. Although it seems a bit luck of the draw as to where he's living.

I can't be 100% certain, but like Stu has said, I too believe all 3 people listed could well be the same guy. 192 website uses the electrol. What I think is that his home address is Campbeltown, but he goes to university in Glasgow (as said on his facebook page), I think this is also backed up by the fact of how many other people were living at the same address as listed on 192, 9 people including himself during the same period in 2011, indicates a house/flat share to me. I'm not friends with him on facebook, so I can't see his friends list, however it might be worth searching through hi

Who set it up pal? Am not too clued up on the HKS units so not entirely sure how they work, but it could well have something to do with the setup of it.

The green plug is for the ecu, its the coolant temp sensor. So if that was the sensor with no wires on it, that will be your problem

I have heard that you only get the bearings if you buy OEM Toyota ones. I could be wrong though.

Any interest? Willing to split the kit, but the mani will have to go with the turbo otherwise its useless to me.

Isn't the KS Rom supposed to be mapped for a 5E? Wouldn't mind using that for running my engine in but got other things to pay out for atm

dafuq? Am lost. So you agreed to swap ecu's basically, done your part of the deal but he couldn't stick to his and robbed yours basically with no itention of sending the emu. Kayble = Throwaway = Weyro. Since your having no luck with tracking him down, http://www.192.com/atoz/people/mckerral/craig/ See where he's registered to on the electrol Edit : After doing some digging he has a brother called Ronnie Father called Ronald, and a Mother called Mary all with the same surname, lives at this address here : Campbeltown, Argyll, PA28