AdamB

Well the fact if you block the TB and it doesn't cut out assumes theres a leak between the head and the TB somewhere. TB gasket? Is the face straight on the manifold? Is the head face straight? Cracked head possibly.

Item For Sale: Custom Forced Performance Garrett GT2868 HTA turbo with Tial V-Band turbine housing Item Condition & Description: Brand New 0 miles The turbo itself is a custom built unit by Forced Performance who have been around for many years offering billet HTA wheels to Garrett turbo cores. This turbo was originally a GT2860RS which has the added 68mm HTA billet compressor wheel, taking flow from 35 lbs/min to 48lbs/min. Taking power from 350bhp upto around 480bhp on a well built cylinder head without any increase in spool time! This turbo also has the offering of a race metal beari

Depends on the budget. The easiest way to make an N/A go faster is to increase the rev limit which requires management. No one is prepared to spend the same amount on an electronic box as what they did for the car. The fastest and most powerful are two very different things! Personally I would deck the block as much as possible reducing the compression height. Skim the head as much as possible without the valves hitting the pistons. That way you'll have very high compression without having to spend £800 on a set of custom pistons. Get the bottom end balanced and fit ARP crank bolts/stu

Prefer the body of a GTR with more curves, wider arches, plus the 4wd system, can have either 4wd or rwd with a controller. Extra 100cc, or stroked if you have the money. Everyone has their own opinions though.

Anything is possible with the cash. However! I don't see the point, when you could just use a manifold like the ACIS to give you the bottom end torque for pottering around town, and then the mid-top end torque by utilising shorter runners for the fast backroad/track action. It would be much much cheaper, much easier to install, easier to setup, etc. Not to mention that the 4E is of a square design engine, and the 5E is under square making power a lot sooner in the rev range than VTEC engines. If that's what you wanted to look at doing, I would look closer to home with Toyota's VVT

I don't think you'll need extend wheel studs with just 5-10mm mate.

Well that depends. Can you afford to run one? Will it be a daily or a weekend toy? They are very juicy to run, but I wouldn't sell my starlet for a GTS tbh, GTR would take some serious thinking.

Yeah the sensor screws into the sandwich plate of T-piece. Easiest method would be to get the T-piece as you wouldn't have to grind away at the powersteering bracket and or sandwich plate.

You can use a sandwich plate like this http://www.id-workz.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_1118_1211_1233&products_id=369 If you use a sandwich plate you will very likely have to grind it as it will foul on the powersteering bracket. The other good thing is that you can put a temp sensor in there as well. Or a T-piece fitting which goes to the stock pressure sensor on the front of the block. Fitting is a doddle. Sensor goes to the gauge, then the gauge will need +12v and an earth which you can connect to the cig lighter. And also normally there is another wi

Quad is 9005

Yeah the EMB will be fine. TD do offer a package for supply, fit and map of the unit. For £600 you can get a half decent standalone.

If you want a reliable track car, get it on some management, not only will it be smoother, it will be more reliable and easier to fault find.

Yes has been done, you just need to place it into the collector. Providing its welded well it will work, that said you may find it will crack eventually.

Ay did a bit of digging last night and it was the comp clutches that gave the problem. Some of the bell housing needed grinding away to stop it catching. Anoither syptom was it was hard to engage a gear.

Was probably a base spec then just with those ticked as options.

Seems pointless, corsa's handle like a fucking goat

Looks to be a FTE manifold on an N/A as that's where the idle control valve is located. What do you mean injector power line? It just goes into the same bunch of loom because of where it's located.

This! Or you'll be replacing crank seals lol.

Another +1 for Zisco

It all depends on what you wanna use the car for and your deffinition of too much lag. Only one way to find out and thats to try it.

What clutch you using? I would say that's more the problem rather than the flywheel as the flywheel essentially sits outside the box. I have heard of some clutches catching on the gearbox casing before, although for the life of me I can't remember what brands it was, somethings telling me Comp clutch.

That's the P-sport version, has no ABS, no elec mirrors, no elec windows, runs only in high boost mode, no central locking. It is essentially a lightweight version rather than poverty spec, but that depends where on the fence you stand. You may only think that removing all them mod cons would save something like 15-20kg, but the EP7* Turbo R was also lighter than its counterparts by also 20kg and was used for racing in Japan. But anyway, if you wanted a lightweight starlet, you would start with an EP8*

They offer a little later spool up as a VF24, but a little less top end power than the VF22 which I believe is the biggest in the range upto 400bhp I think it is. The VF24 is the most comparible with the td04. What power gains you will see depends on what boost you decide to run it at.

And there's loads to choose from in 4x100 as well? Something must take your fancy out of the thousands that are out there.

Ah okay mate, let me know, seriously interested