AdamB

Seen this before, guys got quite a few video's, must be a drug dealer or something to get stopped all the time lol. Fair play though, they do think they own us when they don't.

Thought there was more to it than just the ecu? Inlet and exhaust manifold are different.

What difference will it make on an N/A? Higher rev limit I assume?

A stage 4 comp clutch should do the trick

Want these gone, open to offers.

If its a daily don't bother, the rear seats prob weigh something like 5kg, they are just foam covered in fabric. Makes next to no difference to performance, but if you want to go for the track look then do it, they do look epic when stripped and a lick of paint.

That's a ridiculous price! If I didn't already have a Motec I would of had that. By far the easiest ECU software I've ever used! Someone snap it up. Out of interest, what ecu are you running now?

Yea I would check the valve clearences. You need a set of feeler blades to measure them. Can't remember the clearences off the top of my head but they are floating around somewhere.

What pistons does it have? Wiseco and Ross have piston slap, Wossner's shouldn't have because they have more silicone content and can run a tighter clearence. It is something you can do yourself, but it is a bit of a faff tbh.

Best way to check them is to use the box unfortunately. Other than that its just a case of a visual inspection.

Look's ok, main thing is to just check the gear, no cracks, dents, chips (although may find a few). Check the synchro rings, no broken or missing teeth.

Maybe try Toyota mate, only place I can think of unless you find someone breaking one, which is hard to come by. I'm sure other people have a few tricks they'll share though

Yeah that's it mate. Argh same engine though virtually All depends what your looking for really, we're all waiting for Shorty to get off his ass and finish his

Haha, think its a 4E running a td04 from a volvo with some NOS, 240bhp without NOS and like 280 with it.

That pic with the cam lobe, most tend to have slight nicks, but that does seem a little excessive. Probably won't be doing anything good to the duration on that valve.

That's John's 85

If you still have the CD player and speakers come pay day I'll take them mate cheers for getting some pics.

Any offers?

It looks like its had an oil supply issue to me and its overheated. If you've had it checked out then fair play glws

No a boost controller will not help. You'll need to either port the wastegate, which will help somewhat but will not completely get rid of boost creep. Or as above,change setup.

What happened to the forged engine? Are you selling them pistons and rods as spares? Because the rod in the second picture looks fucked.

Stock cams are fine, but the guy isn't looking for power, he asked how he can improve his low-mid range torque. Besides billet cams can be had cheap if you know where to look

Well basically the long and short of it is. The ecu is programmed by a user for set characteristics, ie power, fuel consumption etc. The program or values are remembered by the ecu in the memory. When the ecu see's say a MAP load (used for forced inducted motors, TPS is used as load for N/A) 0.5 bar at 3000rpm, it will look up that cell in the map and it may say something like 15 degrees ignition advance. Using a crank trigger the ecu is able to know where the engine is at, well No1 cylinder at TDC is what it looks for. With a dizzy setup the ecu controls the ignition coil, the charging and collapsing of the magnetic field, well basically it just turns it on and off. When the field is collapsed is when the voltage is induced into the coils secondary windings which then is sent down the plug lead, to the rotor arm, to the contact point, down the corresponding cylinder lead to the spark plug. After ignition has happened, or during if the engine knocks/pings the knock sensor picks up on this and will then reduce the ignition advance for the next cylinder. Basically it just uses its predefined user programmed values, but then uses the various sensors to keep it running at its optimum. Open and closed loom control is another topic lol.

I do Motorsport Engineering at Oxford Brookes uni mate

You'll need cams with shorter duration and a wider LSA then. You'll be better off getting some from Tighe as they have a load of "off the shelf" specs available, ranging from 80 degrees, all the way upto 340. Something around 215-225 degrees duration, 8.2mm lift and an LSA of 114 degrees.